I have decided to build my d16z6 instead of buying a ls swap. For all of you that know Jack Harris, he's gonna tune it and he wants to use aem controls to tune the boost. I have a friend in cali that says some guy he knows makes 250whp at 13lbs of boost. How true is this?

 

i vote apexi kit..ball bearing turbo

 

hell yes. and a big *** front mount piece. can't beat full boost at 2500 - that turbo is the ****.

 

go custom

 

custom is good but extra work ..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4whldft &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">custom is good but extra work ..
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A built motor is extra work so why half *** it. Custom is the only way to go. Throw in Hondata in the mix.

 

Edelbrock out of the question?
I see on the site that the D16Z6 is coming out next yr.
I know it sounds like lots of CASH but it's damn near perfect!!!
Everything is High Tech on it

 

My vote goes for custom. You'll learn more and you get exactly what you want. But if you want a vote for the choices you gave, it's between apexi and greddy. Last I checked they were around the same price ( i think ) so it would really be up to you, both snails have pretty quick spool up time. And may i also suggest Hondata instead of AEM, Hondata is cheaper and is still a stand alone. Just get someone else to tune it.

 

ask the FI forum....better answers and responses there....but yes if i had my choice custom fab that bia with the best ****

 

Do a homemade setup. Get j00 some mad tite BOOST!!

 

my vote would go to the f-max setup, if you cud piece that kit similarly to your liking. you prolly cud out do the 225HP numbers they dynoed on a stock d16, but with you building the d16 you prolly cud boost 50+HP more w/o a flinch

 

cheap custom if your cheap and know what your doing.

ultimate setup would be FMAX.

 

custom or check out ben@importparts.com he has a drag kit for around 3000 with a bunch of upgrades and hondata boost setup

 

...apex-i!!

 

Apexi d16 kit hand down ROCK! You can use it on any d16, b16, ls, b20, gsr and maybe an ITR and it will still get you fast *** spool time and pull all the way to redline w/out power dropping off.

I have it for my B18c1 at home. Quality is top noch and slighty better than greddy although greddy kits are nicely made too.

I'm not a fan of junkyard turbo or DIY/home-made turbo sets. Custome is nice, but not everyone wants to spend the time and fusteration picing it together that's why we have kits.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowboarderguy44 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my vote would go to the f-max setup, if you cud piece that kit similarly to your liking. you prolly cud out do the 225HP numbers they dynoed on a stock d16, but with you building the d16 you prolly cud boost 50+HP more w/o a flinch</TD></TR></TABLE>

From what i've seen, f-max, and drag put out the most power, and not THAT bad of a sacrifice in lag. Of course you could go custom, which would probably be your best bet since you're building it anyway. That's what i'm doing at least. You don't want to get screwed, or, have half **** parts when you're putting down that much power. Go custom.

 

I had a stock D16z6 with the Greddy kit, and I made 220whp@12psi...

Ran awesome...till I blew the motor up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5thgencivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go custom </TD></TR></TABLE>

apex, greddy turbos wont provide that power u'll want out of a built motor.

 

go with a custom setup. You will get what you want for much cheaper. Out of those kits I would choose the Apexi though

 

I am hoping to put down 300whp on a 9:5:1 built motor. is it possible on a daily driven/ race d16? i seriously dont know anyone that runs more than 300whp to the ground, so i dont want to stress my engine toooo much. is it better to build my engine or buy a b16a2 and boost it? remember i'm only lookig for 300whp at the most.

 

build the D. 300whp is attainable.

 

you said 300 is attainable but is it hard to do?

 

haha... anything is easy given the money and the resources. i think the better question is: is it in my budget?

forged pistons that give you the perfect cr, forged rods, arp rod bolts, rod bearings, get the crank knife edged and balanced. get the head ported and polished (properly - there's been some controversy about the proper way to do this with a d). upgrade your entire valvetrain, stage x turbo cam. crazy fuel delivery, a fat *** turbo, and last but not least: good engine management and tuning.

that should put you somewhere in the 300 range.

then you just need to take care of your drivetrain (do that first - 300hp with no traction = 0hp).

edit: i agree with what he said down there. peak #s don't mean ****: the area under the curve is much more important. even with 150whp i bet you'll still have traction issues to resolve.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blkeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you said 300 is attainable but is it hard to do?</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's just a number in my opinion, if you're looking for street power. You'll get passed by 200whp Hondas while you're smoking your tires until 70 mph.

It's not all about peak HP, useable HP OWNZ!

 

haha you guys are hella funny.

ok 1st thing..... for 300whp. greddy 15G is out of th question... 18G is a possiblity though.

peak number do matter for drag racing! When your shifting at the top of ever gear how often do you ended up back in the middle of the RPM band to access your so called "usable street power"..? the answer to that is never, when racing it's all about top end!
how about highway downshifting/racing........ topend owns all.... instant spool on practically any common turbo even on a d16.

for street driving yes, i totally agree that having better number throught the entire powerband is much nicer.

lets not also for get that setups that have smaller turbos and get faster spool will see boost more gareunteed(sp). yes you may have instant power but your motor is seeing more boost hense more wear and tear to the motor during daily driving in the 2,000 4,000rpm range. When compared to a larger t3t4..... you'll never see boost if your driving normally and shifting at 3-3500rpms...... boost my build slightly but daily driving less where and tear on your STOCK motor!

But when boost hits becase the t3t4 is larger=makeing more power logically the t3t4 will cause more heat/pressure in cumbstion chamber, stress on ringlands/rings rod bearing ect....... compared to the apexi at full boost.
..... either way your stock motor will see more pressure than normall....... like picking your powerband you also have a choice of picking when OR HOW you want the motor to react to boost as it slowly breaks down. Do you want it to be constantly seeing small additional PSI/boost with the small turbo during daily driving throught the entire RPM band and even at PEAK rpms/whp
OR
stock motor that see's practially no boost at all & feels stock unitl 4600rpms BUT boost SMACK/shocks your motor with whiplash neck action when full boost does hit from that larger turbo. And psi/per pressure on the motor would be much greater than pressue on any small turbo........

you pick

Drag, revhard, maxspeed, f-max whatever....... yes those kit will make more power over the greddy and apexi kits. It's not so much the kit mainly the turbo. Those turbos are much much larger than the 15G and P13, so logically they will have more topend and make more power at same boost levels. Also rememebr that 7psi with greddy kit is not eqaul to 7psi on a t3t4(drag kit). I would only imagen that 7psi on greddy kit would make as much power as a drag kit would at say.....4-5psi as in topend/peak power.

300whp on a built d16 is not hard at all. Piston, rods sleeves hondata + 450cc injectors FMIC, fuel pump + tunning...= 300+whp call it a day. If you are new the the FI and not a super turbo guru.... keep it simply yet safe. Less complications will yeild less problems with trouble shooting.

now I think what you want to ask yourself if YES you want 300whp but how would you like your powerband to look like?.... ever think about that?
there are pros and cons of lag/vs instant spool and power on tap.

If your willing to wait to 4500-4700rpms to built 10-12psi of boost on a t3t4 turbo to make your 300whp and have to shift at 6700rpms and only having 2500rpms to play with for power than thats one thing.

If you want 3500-3800rpms until full spool on a apex kit and have it pull nicely all the way to redline ...hense early spool less drastic power spike and overall better powerband cause you'll get more RPM time to play with.

300whp is not that hard to do on a sohc vtec.
I think if you want to boost your STOCK sohc vtec, keep a realistic goal of 8-10psi/180ish whp on a small turbo to get a very decent power curve that will keep many cars away. OR set a goal of 240ish whp stock motor @ 10psi on a t3t4.

for dollar to valve and reliablity it would be more worth it to swap in any B series which will have more power/tq and stronger stock block and you'll be able to boost more with any turbo. Also tranny will be stronger and OEM stock B series axles are slighly stronger than d16 axles IMHO.


hope that help. let me know if you have any question you still may have....
I have not yet even talk about one my best and favorite streetable turbo that are ideal for d16 or b18....... the t28. (very compareable to apexi p13 just even more topend)