I am looking at getting some Rota Slipstream rims, 16X7, 40 or 45mm offset. The tire size that I found to match this is a 215/40-16 this will have same diameter as the stock setup.

Will this fit on a CRX??

Which offset is better??

Does the higher offset send it out the fender well or the other way???

Is 16" rim too much???

Thanks for help.

 

dont know if this will help but i got 205/50/15s and the rears rub but only when i send it into a corner hard

 

It's the same overall diameter so that isn't a problem. The width will probably cause some rubbing if you are lowered.

The higher the offset value, the more it pulls the wheel inboard. The lower, it goes outboard.

If you can find a 205-45-16, it might be better (only ~0.4" larger O.D. than stock). But less chance of rubbing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XrcR6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's the same overall diameter so that isn't a problem. The width will probably cause some rubbing if you are lowered.

The higher the offset value, the more it pulls the wheel inboard. The lower, it goes outboard.

If you can find a 205-45-16, it might be better (only ~0.4" larger O.D. than stock). But less chance of rubbing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sure it's not the other way around? I.E. Higher number pushes wheel outward?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alan Wil &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sure it's not the other way around? I.E. Higher number pushes wheel outward?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I'm pretty sure... My original statement is correct given the context of the original question +40mm vs +45mm. But in an general sense for future readers, I should clarify the following:

The definition of offset is the distance betwen the centerline of the wheel and the hub mounting face. The relation of this distance to either the outboard (face side) or inboard (brake side) of the wheel determines whether it is positive or negative.

A higher positive numercial value means the wheel will get pulled inward vs a lower one (positive, 0, or negative). If we were comparing negative offsets, which will never apply to the FWD Honda's, a -45mm would push the wheel farther outward than -40mm.

These guys agree with me and give a better visual:
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/offset.htm


To be honest, I've actually never liked "offset" since it isn't entirely intuitive and there is chance for abiguity. Good ole domestic back-spacing makes more sense.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XrcR6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes, I'm pretty sure... My original statement is correct given the context of the original question +40mm vs +45mm. But in an general sense for future readers, I should clarify the following:

The definition of offset is the distance betwen the centerline of the wheel and the hub mounting face. The relation of this distance to either the outboard (face side) or inboard (brake side) of the wheel determines whether it is positive or negative.

A higher positive numercial value means the wheel will get pulled inward vs a lower one (positive, 0, or negative). If we were comparing negative offsets, which will never apply to the FWD Honda's, a -45mm would push the wheel farther outward than -40mm.


These guys agree with me and give a better visual:
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/offset.htm


To be honest, I've actually never liked "offset" since it isn't entirely intuitive and there is chance for abiguity. Good ole domestic back-spacing makes more sense.</TD></TR></TABLE>

XrcR6,

Here’s a better visual than the one found on Tire Rack: http://www.discounttiredirect....s.jsp

Looking at the above diagram would seem to indicate a higher + number offset would increase the distance between the centerline of the rim and the hub-mounting surface. Because of such a +45 would push the wheel OUTWARDS more so than a +40 (+45 would move Outer face of rim closer to the fender)… A +40 or smaller number would move the wheel INWARDS.

While I’ve got you… What offset would be good for (15 x7 hopefully), But more than likely 15 x 6.5 Rota’s Running 205 /50/15’s? Azenis Sport’s? http://www.discounttiredirect....28640

BY the way who has the best prices on tires and rims?


http://www.jaydm.com/c8.htm C-8 15x 6.5 shows +38mm
http://www.jaydm.com/rota-c10.htm C-10 15x6.5 shows +45mm

 

205/45/16

 

Hi AlanW (I'm an Alan too),

"HereÂ’s a better visual than the one found on Tire Rack: http://www.discounttiredirect....s.jsp

Looking at the above diagram would seem to indicate a higher + number offset would increase the distance between the centerline of the rim and the hub-mounting surface."


I agree with you 100% with this.


"Because of such a +45 would push the wheel OUTWARDS more so than a +40 (+45 would move Outer face of rim closer to the fender)… A +40 or smaller number would move the wheel INWARDS."

Now here's where what we just agreed upon doesn't jive. When they say "hub mounting-surface", they're talking about the <U>rim's</U> hub mounting surface. The hub will always be in the same place, the part of the rim that touches/mounts to it gets moved around by the offset.

I want to scribble something, but don't have a easy way to post it. But try taking those three pics above and center them on their hub mounting face (not the centerlines). You should get something like this:

&lt;-inboard/brake side-----outboard/fender/wheel face side-&gt;

[___hub_]
..[__hub__]
...[_hub___]

Ignore the "."'s, I had to use them to try to center the hubs, H-T strips out more than a single space. But you should see that the same width wheel moves outwards as the offset decreases.

 

I have 205 50 15''s on 5 spoke GSRs with a 2.25" drop and they dont rub ever.

you would probably want to go with a 40mm offset to avoid rubbing, but you might have a problem with the wheel extending past the fender/quarter panel which would probably lead to tickets. My GSRs w/ 205 50 15's line up PERFECTLY with my wells I have avoided a few tickets because of this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Magnum000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The tire size that I found to match this is a 215/40-16 this will have same diameter as the stock setup.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What is the tires size you are running right now? I am pretty sure that 215/40-16 is not the same rolling circumfrence as your stock setup.
rolling circumfrence is what is important you find this by the calculation:
[W+P(2)+R]Pi= RC
where:
W=Width or tread (the first number in the tire size in mm)
P= profile (the second number in the tire size this is a % of th first)
R= Rim (3rd number already in inches)
example: 205 50 15
converting 205 to inches we get 8.2
50%+50%= 100% i.e. 8.2 again
so the equasion is then
8.2+8.2+15=31.4*3.14
=98.6 inches rolling circumfrence
apply the same equasion to your current tire size and the tire size you wish to buy to find out the total difference (hint try to keep the change under and inch different if you don't want to drastically change your acceleration and MPG.)
the larger the rolling circumfrence the slower your acceleration, but the better your gas mileage (given the tire wheel combo does not weigh much more)
hope this helps, if you have any questions or want help with the equasion PM me.

 

So for the 2nd part of you question:

1) Let me preface this by saying I run Hoosier or Kumho DOT-R's in either 225-45-15 or 205-50-15. What I use to get to and from events are round, black and cheap. So my answer to you is biased towards a performance/competition standpoint.

If I was using Azenis Sports, I'd shoot for +38 to +40 with either width. I'd want the extra track width and they should still fit within the fenders front/back unless you are slammed/tucked. The Azenis Sport run a little wider for their size, so ideally if you can get a 15x7 do it.

2) I just saw something in the Sponsor Marketplace the other day. Looked like decent Rota prices:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=697937

Perhaps he can do a package, he claims to be a Falken dealer too. Or else I know a lot of auto-x'ers who just get their Azenis Sports from Discount Tire Direct.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XrcR6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi AlanW (I'm an Alan too),

"Here’s a better visual than the one found on Tire Rack: http://www.discounttiredirect....s.jsp

Looking at the above diagram would seem to indicate a higher + number offset would increase the distance between the centerline of the rim and the hub-mounting surface."


I agree with you 100% with this.


"Because of such a +45 would push the wheel OUTWARDS more so than a +40 (+45 would move Outer face of rim closer to the fender)… A +40 or smaller number would move the wheel INWARDS."

Now here's where what we just agreed upon doesn't jive. When they say "hub mounting-surface", they're talking about the <U>rim's</U> hub mounting surface. The hub will always be in the same place, the part of the rim that touches/mounts to it gets moved around by the offset.

I want to scribble something, but don't have a easy way to post it. But try taking those three pics above and center them on their hub mounting face (not the centerlines). You should get something like this:

&lt;-inboard/brake side-----outboard/fender/wheel face side-&gt;

[___hub_]
..[__hub__]
...[_hub___]

Ignore the "."'s, I had to use them to try to center the hubs, H-T strips out more than a single space. But you should see that the same width wheel moves outwards as the offset decreases.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey XrcR6,

Screwed up on my last post I should have said a larger number moves the wheel inwards not outwards. I was looking at the above picture and referring to a book I have by Fred Puhn, “How to make your car Handle”. ISBN # 0-912656-46-8. On pages 126 and 127 Mr. Puhn talks about and gives examples of offset. From the pictures and descriptions he gives he is calling rims such as used on Honda’s (Fwd’s) a NEGATIVE offset and “Deep Dish” type wheels such as used on RWD drive cars in years past POSITIVE offset.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obi...07846

It seems since that book was printed Negative has become positive, and Positive has become negative.

Anyone else here have that book? Can anyone recommend a more current book on the subject?

PS: Does anyone here know the “stock” rim width and corresponding outset of the OEM rims? I’d like to see where the steering pivot axis is on the stock rims so when I obtain rims to be sure to try to get that figure as close as possible to stock specs.