i just built a hybrid transmission from a usdm s1 and a jdm s1 transmission. and now i have it all back together i was wondering if there was anyway that i could find out that it is going in all the gears, just to make sure it works before i get it all in the car and it turn out it doesn't want to work.

 

I think you just have to slap it in and try it out basically....

 

dern i was afraid of that oh well the third time to put a tranny in my car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Yellb16crxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dern i was afraid of that oh well the third time to put a tranny in my car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good luck bro...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Yellb16crxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dern i was afraid of that oh well the third time to put a tranny in my car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Have fun.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UNDER PRESSURE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Have fun. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Doesn't sound fun at all, lol

 

I had a tranny in the garage a while ago and i just stuck a screwdriver through the hole where the "bitch pin" goes and i just pulled in and out and side to side, basically like you're shifting gears. I dont know if u will know what gear ur in though...

 

I did an entire tranny swap in 5 hours last time and that was alone.

 

you can grab the shaft and spin and listen for grinds.. driveway tranny test for when your buying used trannys.

 

I'd do what fourthgenhatchB17 said and then put an old clutch disk on the input shaft so that you can rotate it by hand.

I doubt that you would be able to rotate it at any sort of speed that would rule out any grinding, but you would at least show that all gears work.

Wes

 

I would say to have confidence in your own work, if it's done right (using the manual). As long as what ever you modified you took measurements, check spacing, guaged, etc.... And along with what everyone else is saying; turn it by hand first before putting it in and run through the gears. You can never go wrong with the free downloadable helms manual for the 1stgen b16's from CRX uk.

 

I like the rotating method. Better then putting it in the car and finding out it is grinding and having to take it out again. Good luck with the swap

 

yeah she seems to spin freely and go into the diff gears to bad you cant tell which one though.

 

Ummm yeah you can, you have to get all technical with the positoning of the shifter throw if you know what I mean. If you move your shifter in to 5th gear, the bottom of the shifter will twist the same movement, but you have to pull out the shift lever to get 5th. I'm sorry if it gets counfusing, but it's all physics.

 

yeah i went out and played with it some more i got it to go into reverse and all the other gears so i think that i got it. *crosses fingers*

 

I just wanted to throw in a caution here. The title is asking how to see if a tranny is "good". There really isn't a lot that can be done to totally verify the condition of a transmission without splitting the case. I recently purchased a YS1 and went through a rebuild and here are a couple comments on things;

Besides syncros, the input shaft bearing is one of the first things to go out. If the transmission is sitting on the floor, you could try seeing how much side to side movement there is (where the clutch disk sits), but everything within the trans will tend to hold stuff together. Is there any indication that there has been leakage around the seal at that location? Even if it's only a seal that has gone bad, you have to totally disassemble the trans to replace it.

Are there any cracks or "points of impact" on the outside of the transmission. On mine, there was a "divit" where it looks like the original owner may have hit a curb. It didn't look notable and it wasn't until I took everything apart and cleaned that I noticed there was cracking on the inside surface of the case. I don't think that it would have broken worse, but transmission fluid may have "weeped" through it. The guy I bought the transmission from got me a different case.

If there is any transmission fluid within the trans (normally leaks out the axle holes), drain it ALL out and look at it REAL close! A certain amount of brass colored "powder" could be normal wear of the syncros. Anything not brass colored shoud be of question. I found little pieces of metal. They were pieces of the "separator" between the ***** within the input shaft bearing. The ***** within that bearing, and the races, were in reasonable shape. However without the separator, all the ***** just roll to one side of the bearing.

I also replaced the input shaft due to scoring that was on it.

I could have installed the transmission as purchased and it would have run until the input shaft bearing totally went out. At that point I would have faced major damage!!!!!

The reason for writing all this is to show that without splitting a case, you just don't know.

For some unknown reason, most gear-heads fear working on a transmission. THEY ARE NOT HARD! If you buy a used transmission (even if it's from somebody that you trust), split the case and check it out! Other than buying a Helm's manual to show how everything goes back together, the only cost is for some Hondabond.

Wes Vann

 

Well you can do the following:

If you have a large enough drill, you can just chuck the input shaft and spin it. You'll need a 1/2 inch chuck drill tho. Which you can probably rent....then you can spin to to about 1200RPM....not amazing...but more indicative than what you could do by hand.

Shift the gears and see if the ouptut shafte turns properly etc...

Figguring the shifter out is pretty easy

No rotation:
IN: 4th
OUT: 3rd

Turned clockwise
IN: Reverse
OUT: 5th

Turned counter clockwise
IN: 2nd
OUT: 1st

Chilling in the middle between in and out: Neutral

 

how much rotation should the gear selector have?

 

the setup is this... i had purchased a s1 from someone thinking it was going to be a xsi tranny but nope it turned out to be a Ls.. so from the getgo it had a grind going into 4th at high revs but them a week or so later i was in a huge fight with my ex girlfriend and i ended up shifting it 5th at high revs directly from 2nd so that just destroyed that syncro. at anything above 3000 rmps it would grind. so i purchased another tranny from someone on h-t who said it was an xsi tranny i put it in and nope another Ls ( I just think that i have bad luck) so then i was thinking i still have my old xsi internals so i split the trannies and put the 5th gear from the ls onto the gearset.


Modified by Yellb16crxsi at 12:28 PM 12/12/2003

 

Hard to describe...cant really remember....maybe 30 degrees

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NitrousDreamz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can grab the shaft and spin and listen for grinds.. driveway tranny test for when your buying used trannys.</TD></TR></TABLE>

mine clicks when i spin it

 

well i put the tranny in my car and it worked i drove around for an hour tonight no problems at all. I went into vtec with the new tranny omg its good to be back to the jdm s1 nice and tight! and then i got a great 5th gear cruising gear!