I've searched and posted this problem before, did not find anything that could help me and not respones to my problem.

I have a Z6 head with the A6 manifold on a 88 CRX Si. I installed the
P28 ECU
OBD0-PBD1 conversion Harness
ran the wires for the 4 wire O2 sensor
Repinned stock harness to OBD1 dizzy plug
- Matched all colors of wires, teh Green/Yellow wire is paired up with
fat white wire
Installed OBD1 Dizzy I bought from Distributor King.

Now I try to start it and I get nothing the car cranks but will not start. As suggested I switched the 2 white wires connected on teh DIzzy and it still did not work.
I can smell fuel so I am assuming it is not the injectors
I plug in my Timing light to Spark plug 1 and I don't get a ligth
I pulled the spark plug cable out and put it real close to the shock mount and I see no spark

Now
Does this mean I am getting no spark? Are those good ways to check for that when I am doing it by myself?

Any other suggestions are appreciated, I have been lingering on this for the past couple of months.

Everything works fine with the Stock ECU and the OBD0 dizzy.

 

Sound's to me like you don't have spark. Your timing light should be your first indication, although if you just held the tip of the plug wire next to metal, it probably wouldn't arc all the way out. You should you a a spark tester, or if unavailable, use a rubber handled screwdriver to get closer contact, CAUTION!! you can SHOCK your ***!!! Also to ensure you have the ignitor wire correct trace to ECU(if you need pin # let me know.) and check continuity. If ignitor wire checks correct and you still have no spark a known good ignitor should be installed. I am assuming you have checked for 12 volts at blk/ylw wire on your distributor.


http://www.redeyefabrication.com

 

I will give that a try tomorrow if it does not rain. Where is the ignitor? if it is not part of the DIzzy it should work since it works with the A6 Dizzy right?

 

so you switched to OBD1 and kept the old OBD0 mani's?

 

y did u convert to obd1 and keep the obdo manifold?

 

check your grounds and fuses first!!!! then check for spark...pull each plug, put it in the plug wire and touch it to something grounded on the car, now crank the motor, see if it sparks, do that on all cyls...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Renegade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Repinned stock harness to OBD1 dizzy plug
- Matched all colors of wires, teh Green/Yellow wire is paired up with
fat white wire
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You have the wiring wrong here. re-check. The colours should ALL match... not white with green/yellow, etc/. Which wiring are you going by? On the car we just converted, the only colours that worked were the colours coming out of the distributors. Match those 2 (like put your old distributor beside your new one and match colours that way).

 

I tried using the z6 Mani but I kept getting high rev as soon as the car started, this is all before the OBD1 conversion parts. Everytime I started the car it revs up to 3K RPM, tried troubleshooting for a week with a bunch of help from HTers including doing everything as someone else has it on their swap and it did not work. I will assume that perhaps one or more of the sensors on the z6 mani are bad. I am waiting for another mani I bought to try it again or maybe just switch out the sensors.

Nismo240sx1-
Isn't safe to say the fuses are fine if everything works with the stock parts?

I will check the ground from teh harness, I did not think of that and pull out the plugs as you say to check for sparks.

Mr. S -
THis are the wires on the harnesses
OBD0- OBD1
White/Blue White/Blue
Orange/Blue Orange/Blue
Orange Orange
Thick white-----------------&gt;Yellow/Green
Blue/Green Blue/Green
Blue/ Yellow Blue/Yellow
Skinny White White


the one with the arrow is the only that does not match, I was told in other threads that is the way it goes.

So for now, it may be the ground or a bad dizzy.

Any other suggestions appreciated.

 

This is where they talk about the wiring

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=651998

 

The ignitor is internal in the distributor. It is untestable. If with the old manifold it revved to 3000 rpm, that must have been a mechanical problem, not a sensor problem. Electonics cannot make it idle that high, only things like vaccuum leaks(very bad ones),bad IAC valves, etc.. Did you replace your intake man. gasket every time you changed the manifold? Did you ensure all old gasket material was removed? You can use a can of carb. cleaner to detect vaccuum leaks easier. If you were talking about connecting the wiring from an obd0 distributor to a obd1 distributor, all the colors are not the same, and you can't just match them all up color for color. The ignitor signal wire to the ecu is a different color on each. I still think you might have a problem with your ignitor. I would say you could logically rule out grounds as the car already cranks over, and you say you can smell gas(main grounds on thermostat housing disconnected would cause check engine light to flash as engine was cranked, and the fuel system would not be functional). Go back to checking for spark first.

http://www.redeyefabrication.com

 

I'll check for the spark, I'll begin to talk to" distributor king" about replacing the Dizzy just to make sure. Do you know which one is the ignitor wire for the P28 and the dizzy? can I just check for continuity between the two to make sure it is connected properly?


on the z6 mani I checked for leaks with the carb cleaner, I got nothing so it may just be the IAC valve.

 

Yes, you would want to check for continuity between obd1 ecu pin #a21/a22 and the yellow/green wire on your distributor. A21 for sure A22 is only a possibility depending on what year harness your conversion was based off. The lower IAC valve below throttle body is generally the problem with that high of an idle. Since they are completely mechanical they will not throw any ecu codes. You can cheat and block the passage to test that theory. If you want to try it let me know i'll try and walk you through it.

http://www.redeyefabrication.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RENR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">y did u convert to obd1 and keep the obdo manifold?</TD></TR></TABLE>
because u can do that without no problems...
the same way u can use a OBD1 manifold on a OBDO car

 

now since I do not anythign about the ECU pins.
There are 3 plugs for the ECU, I am assuming they are A B and C so I need to check pin 21 , 22 on the A plug. This is my attempt at reverse engineering something simple.
Is there a diagram I use to check which one is A21 or 22?

I would appreciate it if you can tell me how to block and test the IACV, that way next time I get a chance I can try it. I think I have read a littel abotu it before,

thanks for your help.

 

you may have to convert to an external coil. not to familiar with obd1 d series, but its a possibility
for you wiring question92-95 civic ecu)
http://www.lightningmotorsport...g.htm





Modified by Old Skool at 4:34 PM 12/10/2003

 

Your right the first plug is A then B and then usually on obd1 the last is referred to as D plug. When reading ecu pins look at the back side of the plug with the wires facing you. Top left is A1 bottom left is A2 and so forth, odds being top row, bottom being even.

A1 A3 A5 A7 A9 A11 A13 A15 A17 A19 A21 A23
A2 A4 A6 A8 A10 A12 A14 A16 A18 A20 A22 A24

To block your lower IAC valve:
1. Remove from bottom of t-body.( I believe 3 10mm. screws.)

2. Cut piece of cardboard (I usually use part of a cigarette box)to cover the center 2 holes, but allow room to still install 3 10mm screws.

3. Use a small amount of sealant to hold it in place.

4. Re-install lower IAC.

For reference the external coil idea is not necessary, both obd0 and obd1 distributors have an internal coil. I believe only certain preludes w/ obd1 had external coils.

Hope that helps some more, but if you need more let me know....


http://www.redeyefabrication.com

 

distributer

 

The ignitor <U>is</U> able to be tested. The easiest way to check for spark is to use a spare plug. Attach a plug wire to it and crank the engine. The spark should have a blueish color to it. HTH

 

here's my OBD1 pinout diagram to help you out:

 

As far as I know all testing procedures for ICM only check for proper voltage and continuity, thus not actually testing the ICM. BY checking for power and continuity your only eliminating the wiring as a possibility. This is testing by process of elimination. You aren't actually testing the ICM, only the wiring to it. There are several times I have had a vehicle running and it passes all ICM test's but it still has a bad ICM (I have done atleast 100 swaps!). If your still concerned you have a wiring issue these procedures may apply, although it is always best to swap with a known good unit.

I'm not trying to insult anyone, it's just hard to fix something with so many people telling you to do different things. I am not saying anyone is wrong with there methods either, just trying to make it easier on RENEGADE. And I do believe you spell DISTRIBUTOR with an O not an E... Is that why everybody uses the stupid word DIZZY????

P.S. you will never get a spark if you don't ground out the spark plug

http://www.redeyefabrication.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You have the wiring wrong here. re-check. The colours should ALL match... not white with green/yellow, etc/. Which wiring are you going by? On the car we just converted, the only colours that worked were the colours coming out of the distributors. Match those 2 (like put your old distributor beside your new one and match colours that way).</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have built over 300 of the OBD0-1 conversion harnesses and have personally done over 25 installs of this harness. I have yet to find one where all the colors match. On the OBD1 distributor, everyone that I have installed and also every harness I have offered tech support on, has had the yel/grn wire in place of the extra white wire.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redeyeef2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A1 A3 A5 A7 A9 A11 A13 A15 A17 A19 A21 A23
A2 A4 A6 A8 A10 A12 A14 A16 A18 A20 A22 A24
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Follow the wires into the back of the OBD1 plug and read them pins this way.

Also B plug...
B1 B3 B5 B7 B9 B11 B13 B15
B2 B4 B6 B8 B10 B12 B14 B16

D plug reads....
D1 D3.......D19 D21
D2 D4.......D20 D22

So you need to check the following:
A21 OBD1 side goes to B15 OBD0 side of your conversion harness.

On the OBD0 side of the plugs, look at them into the opened end of the plug....the side that the underharess plugs into and read them that way.

Jason

 

Ok, I checked the wires you mentioned and then some

pulled the pin (thick wire) off the OBD0 harness for the Dizzy

I hooked one of the Fluke leads to it, on the other side I started to check the pins you guys said. NOthing

So I checked with all the pins on PLUG A, Nothing
I did that 3 more times then checked Plug B and D
Nothing

So I took the conversion harness off and checked off the OBD0 A plug and I still got nothing.

I cut not check plug B and D on the OBD0 Idid not have a Ohm meter lead small enough to fit the plug/pin opening. I know it reaches to touch on the OBD1 harness.

What else Can I do?

I am going to take out the harness and check all of the wires, no offense Blown90hatcH just want to check everything.


But like I said I couldn't get anythign off the OBD0 stock harness plug A to the thick white wire.

Modified by Renegade at 11:41 PM 12/12/2003


Modified by Renegade at 11:41 PM 12/12/2003

 

I checked the OBD0 -&gt; OBD1 conversion harness

the A12 OBD1 pin goes to B13 OBD0. I counted 5 times and checked plenty of times, this is looking at the OBD0 side with the pins facing me from left to right, top left being B1 and bottom left being B2. The B plug on the OBD0 side only has 20 pins correct ? and looking straight across to the A plug on the OBD1, from right top the 3rd one from the left is A21.

Just trying to rule out people saying , check again.

That may be the problem right?

 

I checked the OBD0 -&gt; OBD1 conversion harness

the A12 OBD1 pin goes to B13 OBD0. I counted 5 times and checked plenty of times, this is looking at the OBD0 side with the pins facing me from left to right, top left being B1 and bottom left being B2. The B plug on the OBD0 side only has 20 pins correct ? and looking straight across to the A plug on the OBD1, from right top the 3rd one from the left is A21.

Just trying to rule out people saying , check again.

That may be the problem right?