So I found in 10 minutes of searching I could save lots of $$, but maybe someone here knows of someplace even cheaper.

Here are the best prices I found excluding ebay.

Front:
-control arm bushings $37 (ultrarev.com)
-sway bar end links $16 (nippon)
-sway bar frame bushings $10 (ultrarev.com)
-shock absorber bushings $20 (nippon)
-strut rod bushings $16 (ultrarev.com)

Rear:
-lower control arm bushings $27 (ultrarev.com)
-sway bar end links N/A
-sway bar frame bushings $10 (ultrarev.com)
-shock absorber bushings $20 (nippon)
-trailing arm bushings $22 (ultrarev.com)

Other:
-engine mount inserts $20 (summit)
-shift stabilizers $11 (summit)

ES Kit: $128 (summit):

If you find someplace cheaper please post it.

 

I'm not sure about your prices as I live in canada BUT I don't see 2 important areas you should look at when doing bushings

The front radius rod bushings which you can buy from ES

The rear upper control arm bushings...if you are at the point where you need bushings then the rear upper arm bushings will be in the same condition or worse then the areas you mentioned. For proper handleing you should really look at either reaplacing the apper arm bushings which I don't believe ES sells or buy whole new upper arms either stock or adustable. If the upper arm bushings are bad they will allow camber changes during cornering.

edit maybe I see you have "strut rod" I guess that means radius rod too ?

 

i have this noise in my car when i turn the wheel hard over and drive
it is a deep rattle.(something big, cuz i can feel it in the floor boards.)
if i replace every bushing, will that help?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krustindumm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I found in 10 minutes of searching I could save lots of $$, but maybe someone here knows of someplace even cheaper.

Here are the best prices I found excluding ebay.

Front:
-control arm bushings $37 (ultrarev.com)
-sway bar end links $16 (nippon)
-sway bar frame bushings $10 (ultrarev.com)
-shock absorber bushings $20 (nippon)
-strut rod bushings $16 (ultrarev.com)

Rear:
-lower control arm bushings $27 (ultrarev.com)
-sway bar end links N/A
-sway bar frame bushings $10 (ultrarev.com)
-shock absorber bushings $20 (nippon)
-trailing arm bushings $22 (ultrarev.com)

Other:
-engine mount inserts $20 (summit)
-shift stabilizers $11 (summit)

ES Kit: $128 (summit):

If you find someplace cheaper please post it.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Good stuff

Im in the market for most of these things, 190k on stock bushings sucks!
thanx dude

 

2 years ago, but I think they can still order them for you.

These are the Sway Bar end Links and the Radius Rod Bushings, not sure which is which.

Order Receipt

Order Number : 0000050815
Order Status : Authorized
Order Date : 11/27/2001




Thank you for shopping at PartsAmerica.com; your order has been received. Please keep this as your temporary receipt; you will receive a confirmation via email shortly.

Shipping Address
----------------------------------------------------------
Billing Address
-----------------------------------------------------------
Payment Information
Visa ****6474 Exp. 12/2002





For Shipping (special order item) :

Qty. Description Mfr Part# Unit Price Ext. Price

For: Miscellaneous Part(s):
1 ENERGY SUSPENSION 167102 $12.99 $12.99

1 ENERGY SUSPENSION 168104 $13.99 $13.99




Merchandise Total: $26.98
Tax: $0.00
Shipping/Handling: $6.92

Total Order Amount: $33.90

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. . . important areas you should look at when doing bushings
The front radius rod bushings which you can buy from ES

The rear upper control arm bushings . . . edit maybe I see you have "strut rod" I guess that means radius rod too ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I haven't seen the radius rod bushings yet, or they would be on there. IDK what the strut rod bushings are, but they could very well be the rear UCA.

I'm trying to check parts america's website, but it sucks.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Updated Price List &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Front:
-radius rod bushings
-control arm bushings $37 (ultrarev.com)
-sway bar end links $16 (nippon)
-sway bar frame bushings $10 (ultrarev.com)
-shock absorber bushings $20 (nippon)
-strut rod bushings $16 (ultrarev.com)

Rear:
-lower control arm bushings $27 (ultrarev.com)
-sway bar end links N/A
-sway bar frame bushings $10 (ultrarev.com)
-shock absorber bushings $20 (nippon)
-trailing arm bushings $22 (ultrarev.com)

Other:
-engine mount inserts $20 (summit)
-shift stabilizers $11 (summit)

ES Kit: $128 (summit):
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

i believe the strut rod bushings are the same as the strut mount bushings, the pieces that sit between the nut & washer that bolt to the strut tower??

 

http://www.suspension.com/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Updated &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Front:
-radius rod bushings
-control arm bushings $37 (ultrarev.com)
-sway bar end links $13 (suspension.com)
-sway bar frame bushings $7 (suspension.com)
-shock absorber bushings $15 (suspension.com)
-strut rod bushings $11 (suspension.com)
Rear:
-lower control arm bushings $27 (ultrarev.com)
-upper control arm bushings N/A
-sway bar end links N/A
-sway bar frame bushings $7 (suspension.com)
-shock absorber bushings $15 (suspension.com)
-trailing arm bushings $21 (suspension.com)

Other:
-engine mount inserts $15 (suspension.com)
-shift stabilizers $9 (suspension.com)

ES Kit: $128 (summit, same at suspension.com)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Strut rod=radius rod

 

I recommend prothane

 

I waited and waited and waited for a good buy on the ES Hyper-Flex kit and my waiting did good, I got the complete master kit for $67 shipped off of Ebay. Brand new in box still had sales sticker on it which was $212.99

I dont think you can beat that price

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alan Wil &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.suspension.com/</TD></TR></TABLE>

word.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alan Wil &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.suspension.com/</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup
thats where i got my motor mount inserts for $15

 

for the rear trailing arm bushings i would go with prothane instead of ES, i love ES and all but the prothane ones already come pressed into the rings where with ES you have to basically burn all the old bushing out of the ring and reuse it. To me prothane makes it alot easier, press out, press in and bolt back up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt j &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for the rear trailing arm bushings i would go with prothane instead of ES, i love ES and all but the prothane ones already come pressed into the rings where with ES you have to basically burn all the old bushing out of the ring and reuse it. To me prothane makes it alot easier, press out, press in and bolt back up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im running a full energy master kit and prothane trailing arm bushings.
the prothane are better and worth the extra cash,. but doing the entire car in urethane makes it twitchy at the limit. my new car wont have urethane bushings i dont think

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by revised &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Front:
-radius rod bushings
-control arm bushings $37 (ultrarev.com)
-sway bar end links $13 (suspension.com)
-sway bar frame bushings $7 (suspension.com)
-shock absorber bushings $15 (suspension.com)
-strut rod bushings $11 (suspension.com)
Rear:
-lower control arm bushings $27 (ultrarev.com)
-upper control arm bushings N/A
-sway bar end links N/A
-sway bar frame bushings $7 (suspension.com)
-shock absorber bushings $15 (suspension.com)
-trailing arm bushings $21 (suspension.com)
Other:
-engine mount inserts $15 (suspension.com)
-shift stabilizers $9 (suspension.com)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ES kit breakdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
front
-control arm $37
-strut rod $11
-shock bushings $15
-end links $13

rear
-control arm $27
-shock $15
-Sway bar frame $7

shifter stabilizer bushings $9

ball joint and tie rod end boots $0

Total=$134
Vs. $128 at summit or suspension.com
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Email me your your year make and model and zip for shipping quote and I am sure I can beat any prices you will get online with ES.

I'd tell to you to go to my website but frankly I haven't had any time to work on it so it doesn't have these on it yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt j &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for the rear trailing arm bushings i would go with prothane instead of ES, i love ES and all but the prothane ones already come pressed into the rings where with ES you have to basically burn all the old bushing out of the ring and reuse it. To me prothane makes it alot easier, press out, press in and bolt back up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually the best trailing arm bushings to use would be the Mugen hard rubber ones. There was a thread in the Roadracing/autocrossing forum awhile back saying how you still want those bushings to "give" a little. The prothane ones ARE better than the ES ones but the Mugen are better than both. The ES ones can slide partially off of the pin and the Prothane ones are just too stiff, although it does make the prothane ones a bit better to remove the pin or whatever that holds the washers tight onto the the bushings since that way they will be able to give a little.

 

I agrree with you. The only thing I would add is IF your running real high spring rates the suspension isn't going to delfect as much as the stock set-up so the binding issue may be a moot point.

 

summit...:thumbsup:

135 shipped is what i got it for...that kit is the biggest pain in the *** to install, well at least the control arm bushings are.

 

I just got done installing a master kit one of my friends crx at the shop. If you don't have a press and patience then you shouldn't really tackle this job. Yeah the kit isn't that costly but paying someone else to install it can be costly, most people don't realize how time consuming it is. And I don't recommend the polyurance bushing for the rear tailing arms either. their was a write up about this in the road/course forum about them. We didn't install them we used the mugen ones.

 

I resently purchased the Hyper-Flex master prothane bushing kit for my hatch. It was about $140. Its worth every penny.

 

hey vince, you got me thinking about the mugen bushings now, do they have the rings and the shafts like prothane or do they come like the ES ones?

 

I have installed the prothane rear trailing arm bushings a number of times, but they were all black and had no horseshoe clips to hold the pin in place. I called prothane to inquire if perhaps the brand new ones came with the clips, and they said no, that it needed to have a floating pin for there setup to work. If you consider where the trailing arm bushing is going to move to, it really doesn't matter if it's locked in place. It can only go abou 3/4" in either direction, and will not travel that far anyway because it is limited by all the rest of the suspension components. It's not going to "slide off the pin". It is true that it will develop less toe in as your suspension compresses, which depending on your driving style can be good or bad. At any rate, putting something in there over a cracked and broken stock one is a good move.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt j &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey vince, you got me thinking about the mugen bushings now, do they have the rings and the shafts like prothane or do they come like the ES ones?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Basically the Mugen ones are exactly like OEM ones except that they use a stiffer rubber (yes they are still rubber) but they arent as stiff as poly.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX-RX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have installed the prothane rear trailing arm bushings a number of times, but they were all black and had no horseshoe clips to hold the pin in place. I called prothane to inquire if perhaps the brand new ones came with the clips, and they said no, that it needed to have a floating pin for there setup to work. If you consider where the trailing arm bushing is going to move to, it really doesn't matter if it's locked in place. It can only go abou 3/4" in either direction, and will not travel that far anyway because it is limited by all the rest of the suspension components. It's not going to "slide off the pin". It is true that it will develop less toe in as your suspension compresses, which depending on your driving style can be good or bad. At any rate, putting something in there over a cracked and broken stock one is a good move. </TD></TR></TABLE>
OK the ones sliding off the pin I was referring to is the ES ones the ones where you reuse the OEM pin and such......As for the horseshoe clips they must have changed their design then because people were taking them off so they did have the "give" which they said it helped out a little bit more rather than having them in. Now im not going to say that prothane is junk or anything but from what I have heard I am going to go with the Mugen ones over the ES or prothane ones. Oh and they are the same price if not a bit cheaper than the prothane ones. King motorsports stocks them but they are always selling out of them. I have to get my *** down there and pick up a pair.