I have the apexi ws damper system on my r and i lowered them less that a finger from the tire and the fender. Is it necessary for me to get some type of camber kit for my alignment or will I be okay?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ssacol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the apexi ws damper system on my r and i lowered them less that a finger from the tire and the fender. Is it necessary for me to get some type of camber kit for my alignment or will I be okay?</TD></TR></TABLE>

most likely, but check your alignment first..that is really the only way to determine..

some - camber is a good thing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ssacol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the apexi ws damper system on my r and i lowered them less that a finger from the tire and the fender. Is it necessary for me to get some type of camber kit for my alignment or will I be okay?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You will need adjustable camber arms if you want "stock" camber on a lowered car. But, I am not sure if this answers your question. A lowered car will have more camber. Whether or not this is ok, depends on you and what camber settings you want for your car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ssacol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the apexi ws damper system on my r and i lowered them less that a finger from the tire and the fender. Is it necessary for me to get some type of camber kit for my alignment or will I be okay?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Less than a finger, I'd say that's about a 1.5"-2" drop... The camber isn't _THAT_ bad, I'd say it's barely noticable if you eye it... but you will likely get some "inside-of-the-tire" wear patterns. I find the camber difference to be more noticable on the rear tires.

It's all up to how comfortable you are knowing that your tires are wearing a little unevenly and will need to be replaced earlier than if you did adjust the camber back to original.

If you do get a camber kit, you'll have to get an alignment done afterwards plus the cost of the kit itself... So there is a cost factor too look at as well... Some people "cheat" the rear camber with washers... but I can't really recommend that as I wouldn't really do that myself... You do get slightly "better" handling if you leave it as is, I suppose...


Modified by DC2fanboy at 7:12 PM 12/8/2003

 

Camber Kits save tires lives..........

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jh4dc23spoon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Camber Kits save tires lives.......... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Bah, more camber is a good thing...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Bah, more camber is a good thing... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Negative camber, Not positive camber.

 

doesnt the itr come from the factory with negative camber? considering it is lower than a base integra with the same suspension geometry, if you lower it even further then you may have some serious negative camber.

while in theory more negative camber will give you better handling, if you have too much on the street with alot of straightline drving and light corning, your tires will wear very unevenly.

 

This topic has been talked about many times.

Camber won't eat your tire, but toe would. Lowering a car increases negative camber, but also throw the toe settings out of wack.

After lowering the car by the amount you described, get the alignment done to set the toe STRAIGHT (or within spec) and leave the camber as is. There should not be any abnormal wear on the tires.

I ran -2 to -2.5 camber on the street for a long time (when the car was still street driven) and the toe settings were straight. There were no abnormal tire wear at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This topic has been talked about many times.

Camber won't eat your tire, but toe would. Lowering a car increases negative camber, but also throw the toe settings out of wack.

After lowering the car by the amount you described, get the alignment done to set the toe STRAIGHT (or within spec) and leave the camber as is. There should not be any abnormal wear on the tires.

I ran -2 to -2.5 camber on the street for a long time (when the car was still street driven) and the toe settings were straight. There were no abnormal tire wear at all. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that is not correct, i have my car aligned after the settings are changed and i still got uneven tire wear from street driving. highway driving and wheelspin will not wear your tires evenly if you have negative camber.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Negative camber, Not positive camber.</TD></TR></TABLE>

of course...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by euclid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that is not correct, i have my car aligned after the settings are changed and i still got uneven tire wear from street driving. highway driving and wheelspin will not wear your tires evenly if you have negative camber. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you get a printout after the alignment is done?
If your toe is within spec and the camber is around -2 to -2.5, there should not be any abnormal tire wear.

For street tire and street usage, the tire would never get hot and the pressure would never get high. With a relatively soft sidewall (especially with 15" tire), I really don't see how a -2 to -2.5 would eat up the tire inside edge.

 

ok well then it depends on your driving habbits. if a wheel is applying more pressure to the ground on one side of the tread it will wear faster. the only thing that wears the outside edge is hard cornering that rolls the tire to its outside sidewall. drive around daily with 2% of camber on all four corners and see where your tires stand after a season... or which side goes bald first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
For street tire and street usage, the tire would never get hot and the pressure would never get high. With a relatively soft sidewall (especially with 15" tire), I really don't see how a -2 to -2.5 would eat up the tire inside edge.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldn't say "eat up", but there is a noticible difference in the wear of inner edge vs. outer edge, but not extremely significant that you would have to change the tires at something like 60% or something drastically early.

I'm running 17" Parada 45s, even on 16" "stock" Potenzas, but I wouldn't say I drive "conservatively", nor do I burn out at every light like a 16-year-old ricer, I figure I drive an ITR like it was meant to be driven.

 

I ran -4 camber up front and -3 in the back for about 350 track miles on Toyo RA1 this year, the wear pattern has been very satisfactory with slightly more wear on the *outside* edge.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">track miles</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Toyo RA1</TD></TR></TABLE>

key phrases

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by euclid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">key phrases</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah that's true, although I had been running -2.5 camber on Dunlop all-season ever since my stock RE010 was done. Daily driven for 2+ yrs and they are still in very good shape.

I remember specifically that quite a few members here are sharing the same experience. Asahi being one. So we're actually talking from personal experience -- and I do my own alignment too so I know for sure that my toe is close enough to be straight.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah that's true, although I had been running -2.5 camber on Dunlop all-season ever since my stock RE010 was done. Daily driven for 2+ yrs and they are still in very good shape.

I remember specifically that quite a few members here are sharing the same experience. Asahi being one. So we're actually talking from personal experience -- and I do my own alignment too so I know for sure that my toe is close enough to be straight. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've driven that car with the SP Dunlops on them..... even wear. I didn't believe it and I checked myself. Sure enough, even wear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This topic has been talked about many times.

Camber won't eat your tire, but toe would. Lowering a car increases negative camber, but also throw the toe settings out of wack.

After lowering the car by the amount you described, get the alignment done to set the toe STRAIGHT (or within spec) and leave the camber as is. There should not be any abnormal wear on the tires.

I ran -2 to -2.5 camber on the street for a long time (when the car was still street driven) and the toe settings were straight. There were no abnormal tire wear at all. </TD></TR></TABLE>


This guy knows what he is talking about!!! Yea!!!

 

Just trying to advise the thread starter to save a few hundred bucks from buying a camber kit if all he worries about is tire wear.

 

thanks for your advise guys!

 

If you need a front camber kit, I'll give you one I have sitting around my house for cheap ($25 +shipping). I've got no use for it on my GS-T with fatty "Winston" all- season tires and stock susp. It's a Sprint Camber Kit for Integras 94 and up.