I have a 1999 integra gsr with the following mods:
type r head,manifold,throttle body
crower stage 2 cams,springs,retainers, and valves
forged pistons 13:5:1
eagle rods
ats final drivw(4.9)
jdm itr header
2.5 test pipe
mugen twinloop exhaust
aem cam gears
vtec controller (vafc)
type r aem cold air
excedy stage 3 clutch
type r flywheel

 

not sure about OBDII. but if OBDI, use P28 and chip it for hondata. if i were you, id consider converting to OBDI. all you gotta do is use a OBDI dizzy and injectors. other than that i dont know the specifics of the car wiring. might have to use OBDI wire harness.

 

P30 hondata if you want the knock sensor capability...

 

The shop that did my work ( SPI in NJ ) recommended - a SPoon, Mugen or Jun ecu...is that just a waste of money?

 

any thoughts?

 

Would also like to know. Thanks..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmitrvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 1999 integra gsr with the following mods:
type r head,manifold,throttle body
crower stage 2 cams,springs,retainers, and valves
forged pistons 13:5:1
eagle rods
ats final drivw(4.9)
jdm itr header
2.5 test pipe
mugen twinloop exhaust
aem cam gears
vtec controller (vafc)
type r aem cold air
excedy stage 3 clutch
type r flywheel
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hondata s100 (which lists for only $245 msrp), OBDI p28 (or p30) ecu, obdII-obdI jumper harness, and dyno time. That is it. Chipped ECU's are generally better than unchipped for setups like yours, however, they are not tuned per your setup. Every motor has different needs and the only thing that can be adapted exactly to cater to your setup is Hondata or a stand-alone.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmitrvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The shop that did my work ( SPI in NJ ) recommended - a SPoon, Mugen or Jun ecu...is that just a waste of money? </TD></TR></TABLE>
SPI Get outta SPI's way ASAP and got to a real tuner like RPM or DRT in queens.

 

But since he doesn't have the dual stage intake manifold, he can get away without having to run the P72. I'd run a P28 with Hondata. I wouldn't spend my money on an expensive ECU like the JUN, or Spoon ones. They're nice, but not tuned for your setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But since he doesn't have the dual stage intake manifold, he can get away without having to run the P72. I'd run a P28 with Hondata.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, i noticed this but corrected it too late lol

 

what kinda gas do you use in that car..is it street driven..would like to build a similar motor with that compression...who did the work..thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by newarkR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kinda gas do you use in that car..is it street driven..would like to build a similar motor with that compression...who did the work..thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you asking me?

 

A properly tuned P28 / P30 will do for application. Wanna give one of our custom made programs? It'll run way harder than those JUN, XS, blabla chipped ECUs and it'll be fuelled correctly for your compression and cams. Imagine running something like a tuned standalone ecu for a ower cost and with just a simple bolt on PM me for more details.

 

How would you know the fuel is correct if it is a bolt on chip? Will you custom tune it in the actual car?

 

We need certain information like total displacement, injector flow rating, and compression to get you a chip with the proper base map. We achieve this thru careful computations and actual experience with working on different cars. You can always fine tune this with a VAFC, or we will send you a retuned chip free of charge.