i really want to get the swap but i was searching and founnd that the 800 dollar difference in price makes the 98 spec a better choice. the difference are if i'm not mistaken is the final drive 4.785 tubular 4-1 2.5 inch collector. and more aggressive intake cam right?. also i'm gonna buy it for my hatch.i participate in autocrossing a lot and want to know if any of you guys in here prefer one over the other. i know a lot of people have the swap and i just want you to share your impression with me. is it a worth while swap or not. also i have a another question.

i have a 2000 civic si longblock sitting in the garage. also in the garage is my firends 96 spec itr block with total seal piston rings and toda oil pump gear. he want to sell it to me for 700 bucks. i thought of buying that and swapping my 00 si head over. probably porting the head a lil. and throwing in some type r cams. would that be compareable also in hp as oppose to a full type r swap. thanks

 

anone have any input for me

 

96 spec final drive is a 4.40
98 spec final drive is a 4.785
4.785 0wn5

 

is hp numbers the same also. also is there and physical difference between the two. anyone have pic to compare thanks

 

Between the 2 ITR motors, physically they look the same. The differences being what you mentioned. The hp numbers are listed the same, but the 98-up motor may make slightly more hp due to the header and slight cam increase, but would probably feel better due to the gearing.

Your B16 head with ITR valvetrain, p&p, with ITR block would probably be pretty close to in power, but don't forget that you'd need the ITR Intake manifold and TB. I believe the only difference physically between the ITR head and b16 is the intake valve and seat cut. But for the price of $700 bucks go for it, if its USDM though it will have lower compression than the JDM.

 

thanks for your reply. very encouraging about the setup. any more experience from anyone else.

 

Total Seal rings = total garbage bro.

If you're going to buy that block for the guy, then I'd swap the rings out for O.E Honda ones and maybe even plop in some CTR pistons to get more CR out of it. That with your Si head and some good cams would make more power than a stockish JDM R swap.

BUT!

Any time you're messing with an engine that's already been "built" you have to consider human error. I'd take an O.E Honda build over a messed with engine in your case.

I like the 98 Spec swap for $800.00 more because the header alone is about $380.00 and the FD set is about $430.00 + labor, so you are getting a good deal IMO on the 98 Spec.

Also don;t worry about freeway rpm, because while the 98' spec has the shorter 4.78 FD it also has taller 4th and 5th gears that are the same as the USDM GS-R.

So the 4.78 with the taller .787 5th gear crusies at the same rpm as the 4.400 with the .848 5th gear.

 

yeah that what i was worring about really crusing rpm didn't want like a 5000 rpm cruise it's good to know that i learn something new. also yes i have to agree that the final drive and header is already worth the extar 800.

B18C5-EH2 what year motor and trans do you have in your hatch and what are the your driving impressions of the car so far.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tvrsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
B18C5-EH2 what year motor and trans do you have in your hatch and what are the your driving impressions of the car so far.</TD></TR></TABLE>

1998 USDM B18C5. It baselined 175whp with 122ft-lbs. of torque with only mods being Kenji P28 ECU ( a must for swaps unless you go Hondata), AEM CAI for 99-00 Civic Si, Skunk2 cam gears (untuned) and Tanabe Racing Medallion exhaust. That was with the stock cast-iron exhaust manifold!!!

That was good for a 13.9@100.97mph on street tires in my old 2289lb. full interior'd 1992 Si hatchback.

I then added a DC JDM 4-1 header, 2.5'' Carsound Cat, and V-AFC along with fuel pressure regulator.

I ran this set-up (without the V-AFC, untuned still) in my 2040lb. 1992 Cx hatchback and ran 13.3@101mph with 20'' worn slicks. That was with a unslick-like 2.0 60 footer. 1.8 60 footers from good slicks would have netted 12.9's or 13.0's for sure that night.

A few months after my last runs at the strip I got the car tuned after putting the V-AFC in.

I did not pick up any peak whp, but after tuning I did pick up huge gains in the midrange as seen in this dyno:



As you can see by the chart, there's still more room for improvement in terms of air/fuel ratios. Not only are they not smooth enough, but they are actually still rich in some spots. Hondata would make the big difference, but I'm happy with it the way it is.

My driving impressions of the car?

I love the **** out of it. Speaking from a pure engine/tranny standpoint I love the way the car pulls. From a stop or roll it pulls hella hard and is willing to rev over 800rpm all day long. I've had the engine for over 2 years now and it has never given me one ounce of trouble.

IMO there is no better engine option for the money if you want O.E reliability, no need for mount kits, and some of the best times 1/4 mile wise for any stock engine swap. If you can afford it I say got for it. I've owned a B18C1 and also currently have a B16A2 in my fiancee's 1992 Si hatch and there's no comparing the engines - the B18C5 is just simply hand-down better in every single respect.

I think I missed what type of car you're dropping the swap into - what is it?

 

thanks tvrsir for asking this question i was wondering the same thing...i have another question how would u tell the difference in the motors...is there like something in the vin# or someone that would let u distinguish the year this question goes also for like gsr motors too

 

There is a casting on the cylinder head with the year on it.

I'd post up a pic of mine, but We-Todd is being a pain in the *** as usual.



**EDIT**

Here's the pic I loaded up to Imagestation. They usually resize them automatically when linked, so it might not show up as clear:



It's the number far left in the pic, but it's actually right above the space between the exhaust ports for cylinders 3 and 4, which are on the passenger side of the car.

Someone would have to swap a newer head onto an older block to pull off some scam, and honestly it would not be worth it.

 

thanks alot please post the pic when it's working...good luck on ur project tvrsir

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think I missed what type of car you're dropping the swap into - what is it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm going to buy it for my hatch 93 civic cx.
i was thinking also going ctr pistons like you said and dropping those in the block if i get the block. yeah i'm a lil worry about the block myself. this block was in my friend's car before. i don't know but the ebgine smoked quite a a bit. compression was 235 in 1 215 in 2 225 in 3 and 235 in 4. i am worried that the block may need to be bored out. i hope not. but the cylinder walls looks great no sign of damage or scoring. even the crosshatch it still there. i was hopping that it was the valve seal that leaked oil into the cylinder. the block have total seal rings and i have heard bad things about them but what makes these rings bad? do they have a lot of blow by or something?

 

93 CX eh?

Sweet.

Mine's in a 1992 CX and you could expect similiar times out of your R swap. I'd say high 13's are an afterthought on street tires.

As far as your buddy's block goes, I'd not do it man. What if you buy that block and it does smoke - can you really ask your friend for the money back? What if he spends it? Dealing with friends in situations like this might drive a wedge between you two.

Also have you ever thought about a USDM B18C5 swap? They can be a direct 100% plug and play if you run a Kenji P28 ECU like I am. The USDM OBD2 Integra engine harness even plugs directly into your CX's under hood chassis harnesses.

I'll post pics of the plugs, but damn it once again We-Todd is down and even Imagestation is too!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tvrsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the block have total seal rings and i have heard bad things about them but what makes these rings bad? do they have a lot of blow by or something?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those rings cost me my old ls/vtec...I found out after the fact that they don't work well with JE pistons, go figure. When i pulled it apart there was a 1/4 inch chunk of the ring that broke off and mashed between the piston and the valves for a while until it finally gave up. I would never use those rings again.

 

the funny thing is i already have kenji's chipped p28. and a 98 obd2 type r engine harness (thanks splitime) I ALREADY HAVE WIRED UP THE VTEC INSIDE THE CABIN. from the shock tower to the cabin. so it would be just plug and play if i got the engine. you are right about the friend situation. he one of my best friend. if i decide to buy it and it does smoke i don't think it's gonna be a problem between us. he already warned me about it. he's not sure if it was the head or block causing the oil burning. wow so total sea suck that much huh? guess i'm gonna have tot tell him that.

and yes i am dropping it into a 93 eh2 red hatch. yeah i can't see any of the pics