is this a good price for installation on cams and pistons
Hey i talked to my mechanic about installing some parts on my car and this is what he quoted me. He said around 800 for cams valve terrain and pistons installed. He said that the head gasket set is around 300 and to look for a cheaper deal on if i want better prices . Also that 800 includes balancing everything. Let me know if this is a good deal and if i can get a cheaper head gasket set thanks
that does sound like alot for a head gasket set only.Has he done this before on your type of engine specificaly??Does this include honing for new rings(i hope you werent just thinkin of putting pistons with old rings.)decking the head or block if needed?If your gonna have this done,do it right the first time.Any particular reason why you yourself can't do it?
that price sounds reasonable ...
you're looking at around ~$300 to pull the motor
~$350 for assembly
~$the rest for gaskets, etc, machine shop cost ...
actually to think about it, that price is REALLY fair ...
you're looking at around ~$300 to pull the motor
~$350 for assembly
~$the rest for gaskets, etc, machine shop cost ...
actually to think about it, that price is REALLY fair ...
i dont have the right tools or time going to school to do it my self but i would like to to what i can like buy a cheaper head gasket set and save some money
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800 and everything balance thats a good price. as far as the headgasket set you can get the complet kit from summit racing for half the price.
thanks a lot for the responces i think im gonna buy the parts and wait about a month and install everything together does anyone have a link for a good head gasket pricing?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Snail EG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that price sounds reasonable ...
you're looking at around ~$300 to pull the motor
~$350 for assembly
~$the rest for gaskets, etc, machine shop cost ...
actually to think about it, that price is REALLY fair ...</TD></TR></TABLE>
pull the motor?,wtf
you're looking at around ~$300 to pull the motor
~$350 for assembly
~$the rest for gaskets, etc, machine shop cost ...
actually to think about it, that price is REALLY fair ...</TD></TR></TABLE>
pull the motor?,wtf
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by meanEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
pull the motor?,wtf</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, you know the correct way to do it. Unlike ghetto engineering by dropping the oil pan and throwing them in through the top.
When I had my pistons installed I was quoted up to 1400 bux for the install. Just for pistons. So I'd jump all over 800 dollar install.
pull the motor?,wtf</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, you know the correct way to do it. Unlike ghetto engineering by dropping the oil pan and throwing them in through the top.
When I had my pistons installed I was quoted up to 1400 bux for the install. Just for pistons. So I'd jump all over 800 dollar install.
[QUOTE=P1mpSlap]
yeah, you know the correct way to do it. Unlike ghetto engineering by dropping the oil pan and throwing them in through the top.
QUOTE]
so you are going to pull the engine out and install them from the bottom or from the side, the only way to do it is from the top? what do you mean dropping the oil pan and putting in from the top is ghetto. if it was on your engine stand you would be doing the same thing. you can do what ever you ant but that is a huge waste of time. and its not ghetto. its the way you replace rings on any engine. **** pulling the motor out that is gay, unless like mentioned above that it needs decked, which it wont.
yeah, you know the correct way to do it. Unlike ghetto engineering by dropping the oil pan and throwing them in through the top.
QUOTE]
so you are going to pull the engine out and install them from the bottom or from the side, the only way to do it is from the top? what do you mean dropping the oil pan and putting in from the top is ghetto. if it was on your engine stand you would be doing the same thing. you can do what ever you ant but that is a huge waste of time. and its not ghetto. its the way you replace rings on any engine. **** pulling the motor out that is gay, unless like mentioned above that it needs decked, which it wont.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by meanEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[QUOTE=P1mpSlap]
yeah, you know the correct way to do it. Unlike ghetto engineering by dropping the oil pan and throwing them in through the top.
QUOTE]
so you are going to pull the engine out and install them from the bottom or from the side, the only way to do it is from the top? what do you mean dropping the oil pan and putting in from the top is ghetto. if it was on your engine stand you would be doing the same thing. you can do what ever you ant but that is a huge waste of time. and its not ghetto. its the way you replace rings on any engine. **** pulling the motor out that is gay, unless like mentioned above that it needs decked, which it wont.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have no clue what you are doing or talking about. Try measuring clearence of any bearing while the engine is still in the car. Wait... you know what a bearing is right? Pulling the motor allows you to get all the clearences for bearings and such 100% correct. You cannot plastiguage the crank while the motor is in the car.
No legit engine builder here would ever install pistons without pulling the motor. Being 100% accurate on this install is key.
yeah, you know the correct way to do it. Unlike ghetto engineering by dropping the oil pan and throwing them in through the top.
QUOTE]
so you are going to pull the engine out and install them from the bottom or from the side, the only way to do it is from the top? what do you mean dropping the oil pan and putting in from the top is ghetto. if it was on your engine stand you would be doing the same thing. you can do what ever you ant but that is a huge waste of time. and its not ghetto. its the way you replace rings on any engine. **** pulling the motor out that is gay, unless like mentioned above that it needs decked, which it wont.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have no clue what you are doing or talking about. Try measuring clearence of any bearing while the engine is still in the car. Wait... you know what a bearing is right? Pulling the motor allows you to get all the clearences for bearings and such 100% correct. You cannot plastiguage the crank while the motor is in the car.
No legit engine builder here would ever install pistons without pulling the motor. Being 100% accurate on this install is key.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P1mpSlap »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You have no clue what you are doing or talking about. Try measuring clearence of any bearing while the engine is still in the car. Wait... you know what a bearing is right? Pulling the motor allows you to get all the clearences for bearings and such 100% correct. You cannot plastiguage the crank while the motor is in the car.
No legit engine builder here would ever install pistons without pulling the motor. Being 100% accurate on this install is key.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
3
he didnt say anything about replacing anything but pistons and cams right, so you are the *******. no ******* bearings or cranks. and by the way i will probably out do you, little pea brain fuckface. accurate on what, piston install? why do you need to pul the crank to put pistons in? why SOOO cructial on this install? all he wants is pistons and cams right. you dont need to measure bearings. if the rods are taken down and copper is showing than yea of course.
You have no clue what you are doing or talking about. Try measuring clearence of any bearing while the engine is still in the car. Wait... you know what a bearing is right? Pulling the motor allows you to get all the clearences for bearings and such 100% correct. You cannot plastiguage the crank while the motor is in the car.
No legit engine builder here would ever install pistons without pulling the motor. Being 100% accurate on this install is key.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
3
he didnt say anything about replacing anything but pistons and cams right, so you are the *******. no ******* bearings or cranks. and by the way i will probably out do you, little pea brain fuckface. accurate on what, piston install? why do you need to pul the crank to put pistons in? why SOOO cructial on this install? all he wants is pistons and cams right. you dont need to measure bearings. if the rods are taken down and copper is showing than yea of course.
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