Help: Remove crank pulley
ok my block is on an enhine stand now and im stuck with no air tools and need to get my crank pulley off. is there an easy way of doing it with no air? i have a compressor in the garage, just no tools worse to worse i can get a hi tq impact gun from Sears and take it abck when im done .
but i was told i can put thwe flywheel on and, put on one of the pressure plate bolts and one of the tranny bolts and tie like wire around the bolts and hold the crank still as an anchor while cranking on it ? is thise safe? last thing i wanna do is mess up one of those 10mm bolts trying to get this off.
this is the only thing holding me back from dropping the motor in tonight. i need to put on a diff motor mount post and this stupid timing belt shield is in the way
but i was told i can put thwe flywheel on and, put on one of the pressure plate bolts and one of the tranny bolts and tie like wire around the bolts and hold the crank still as an anchor while cranking on it ? is thise safe? last thing i wanna do is mess up one of those 10mm bolts trying to get this off.
this is the only thing holding me back from dropping the motor in tonight. i need to put on a diff motor mount post and this stupid timing belt shield is in the way
is the oil pan removed along w/ the windage tray/oil pick up?
if it is.. then take a couple shop rags.. turn the crank and stuff it on the underside of one of the counterweights(in between the block) so it "locks" the crank use a 1/2" rachet + a breaker bar.
if it is.. then take a couple shop rags.. turn the crank and stuff it on the underside of one of the counterweights(in between the block) so it "locks" the crank use a 1/2" rachet + a breaker bar.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will the air tool be enuff to crank it off and not spin the Crank ?</TD></TR></TABLE>just tap it a few times with air to loosen it up a little... then use a ratchet.
just hold the flywheel if you have any problems.
use a big air tank (lots of cfm's) and a quality gun.
just hold the flywheel if you have any problems.
use a big air tank (lots of cfm's) and a quality gun.
Me too! Thank god for lifetime replacement tools
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i broke a socket last time i removed one.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i broke a socket last time i removed one.
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It may come off with an airgun- depends on how long the crank pulley bolt has been on. If it has been on a long time you'll need to make/buy a tool to hold the pulley in place and then buy about a 6' piece of 1.5" steel tubing to act as a breaker bar.
You'll need to get some additional tubing for the pulley holder tool so you can brace it against a wall or something extremely firm.
I took one off the '94 GSR engine that I bought, so the bolt had been on for about 9 years.
I held the engine stand in place, welded a tool together from plubing parts from a home depot ( a 3" hex fitting (I think) welded to steel pipe) and braced the end of it against one of the garage beams, and had my (light) mom pull down the end of a 6' breaker bar attached a socket/breaker bar. There was a deafening crack and the bolt was free. It can definitely be an undertaking if the bolt has been on for a while.
Ben
You'll need to get some additional tubing for the pulley holder tool so you can brace it against a wall or something extremely firm.
I took one off the '94 GSR engine that I bought, so the bolt had been on for about 9 years.
I held the engine stand in place, welded a tool together from plubing parts from a home depot ( a 3" hex fitting (I think) welded to steel pipe) and braced the end of it against one of the garage beams, and had my (light) mom pull down the end of a 6' breaker bar attached a socket/breaker bar. There was a deafening crack and the bolt was free. It can definitely be an undertaking if the bolt has been on for a while.
Ben
yea snow sucks. do you have hi tq ****? if i cant get it off this weekend when the weather clears id appreciate it. i atleast am getting the head and what not together 1st. my neighbor has his small compressor in my garage , i dunno if it will be enuff though 3hp i think and like 15gal?
my impact gun is like 400ft/lbs. don't know how much you would need.
not sure on how to rate tanks, but i thik it would be fine as long as it is a good PSI. my tanks is 6hp 33 gallon 150PSI. has never let me down
not sure on how to rate tanks, but i thik it would be fine as long as it is a good PSI. my tanks is 6hp 33 gallon 150PSI. has never let me down
its prob tqd to like 180 ft or so i thnk thats what Honda calls for ? ill let you know if i cant get it off this weekend , Maybe we can work something out next week .
lol, had the same dilema. put a b20 in a eg and had to change the "motor mount post". the EASIEST thing is to get a dremel and cut a small square out of the timing cover, just big enough to get access to those 3 bolts.
it only took 10 min and was way eaiser than getting that ^%$^&$ pully off. o and be careful not to cut the timing belt
it only took 10 min and was way eaiser than getting that ^%$^&$ pully off. o and be careful not to cut the timing belt
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was gonna do that , but it thought there would get shards of plastic and **** in the gears and belt drive and stuff</TD></TR></TABLE>
with a dremel u wont have to worry about any "shards". it should come off in one clean square
with a dremel u wont have to worry about any "shards". it should come off in one clean square
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CW-ITR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, if your engine still on car, do you put shifter in gear and undo the nut going counter-clockwise? I did just that and couldn't get the nut to give.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Put it in 5th and hold the brakes. Then bust out the breaker bar on that biyatch!
Put it in 5th and hold the brakes. Then bust out the breaker bar on that biyatch!
With the flywheel off, put a couple flywheel bolts in the crank and wedge a crow bar inbetween them and the mounts on the engine stand so the engine won't turn; then use a breaker bar with a pipe on it.
Worked like a charm for me.
Worked like a charm for me.
We have this probelm right now on a b16 from japan. So far we've tred a 350IB impact no luck a 450 IB impact no luck and yesterday a 750 IB impact no luck on a 33 gal 150CFM tank. Go figure this one out. I'm scared to death to try a breaker bar with a ext setup on a jack stand and try it with more than the 4' breaker with extension method. Keep in mind all these were in the car with the crank pully puller tool in place.
Now try and beat that. Normally the 400 FT IB impact does the trick. Might get a 3/4 to 1: impact at 1200 If that doesn't work I cry.
Now try and beat that. Normally the 400 FT IB impact does the trick. Might get a 3/4 to 1: impact at 1200 If that doesn't work I cry.
If you haven't disassembled everything else, start the kaa & get her warmed up. The heat from the motor will work it's way to the threads & expand a little before the bolt does the same thing...That + a 600ft/lb IR gun was the only thing that BARELY pulled mine off.
Good luck!
**EDIT - I just reread the post & noticed your motor is on a stand - my bad
Good luck!
**EDIT - I just reread the post & noticed your motor is on a stand - my bad
We gave up and pulled the motor out last night. When it goes in it's next shell I will give that a shot first before I go hunt down a local shop with a 1200 tq monster impact. Thanks for the fresh thought!


