I am building an LS/VTEC with CTR pistons, and as for the B16A2 head:
I have TODA dual Valvesprings, OEM Retainers (I believe B16A2 and B18C and C5 share the same retainer part numbers) but I wasn't sure about my valves.

Cams will be either 1 of the 2:

1) TODA Spec A

2) 2001 ITR

My question is, I took all my valves and used my dad's Grinding wheel/brush and steel brushed the carbon build up (White roughness) Off them, but my neighbor said that if I scratched them with the brush, I may be damaging them. Am I wasting money on new valves??? can they be reused??? If not I would like a price quote on EF-1 valves, (So far these have recieved some of the highest of ratings, but if any others come to mind, feel free to put in .02).

(8) Intake Valves
(8) Exhaust Valves

btw, what brand are they???

Any other suggestions greatly appreciated.

 

anyone???? Bueller... Bueller???

Are Manley Valves pretty much one of the best valves out on the market right now???

 

rev's, manley, supertech's, stock ITR's,
skunk2's

 

Some People have said that REV valves "Mushroom" whatever that means. I'm not saying it's true, This is just what I have heard on H-T.

 

btw, Stock ITR's are REDICULOUS in price:

Intake valves (8) $112.64
Exhaust valves (8) $209.44

I got quoted for a much better price on the Manley's from DoulikIndustries

 

One of my buddies has a used ITR full valvetrain for $250 obo , dual vavlesprings, retainers,vavles, all have been chec k and good to go, no wear.

 

Yea, def. go oem, becuse when the valves fail they dont bust into pieces but rather just bend.

 

were both the intake and exhaust valves damaged/have buildup? go with oem itr intake valves and you may get a slight price drop on the exhaust if you buy b16a ones since there is no difference in them.

 

Ferrea

 

None of them were damaged per say but had a lot of white buildup, so I soaked them in gasoline for about 2-3 days, then took them through the steel grinding Brush.

I know OEM is ALWAYS good stuff, but price wise I cannot afford it.

What is the difference b/w Manley and Supertech Valves???

I am going N/a with a 12.2:1 CR

 

get supertech high compresion valves...let me know if you need some ill give you a good price

 

When do you need the valves?

 

I'd like to get them within the next week.. Do you have something in mind???

 

I've heard that Manley valves are "Thicker Stemmed" than OEM valves.

Does this mean that the 16 NEW OEM Valve guides I bought from Honda for my B16A2 head are not going to work???

 

anyone???

 

I've heard that Manley valves are "Thicker Stemmed" than OEM valves.
Does this mean that the 16 NEW OEM Valve guides I bought from Honda for my B16A2 head are not going to work???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenB16A2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've heard that Manley valves are "Thicker Stemmed" than OEM valves.
Does this mean that the 16 NEW OEM Valve guides I bought from Honda for my B16A2 head are not going to work???

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, the stems are 5.45mm on the intakes and 5.40mm on the exhausts.

What people maybe referring to is the necked down portion of the stem near the head on ITR's.

 

hey man, don't buy new unless you really want to spend the money. if you just wire brushed them off you didn't ruin them, it's common pratice to do so. you should take them to a local machine shop and have them refaced it should be no more than a couple bucks a valve if that. get a valve job done while it's apart to, can't hurt right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HEAD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey man, don't buy new unless you really want to spend the money. if you just wire brushed them off you didn't ruin them, it's common pratice to do so. you should take them to a local machine shop and have them refaced it should be no more than a couple bucks a valve if that. get a valve job done while it's apart to, can't hurt right?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, I agree. That's why I keep a stash of used OE valves for the budget builds.

 

so, ok now i'm lost, I should have a valve job done with the new guides pressed in... WHat does a valve job entail????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenB16A2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so, ok now i'm lost, I should have a valve job done with the new guides pressed in... WHat does a valve job entail????</TD></TR></TABLE>

Who's in charge of building your head?

 

well you have to get a valve job when you get new guides the valve job is centered off of the guide. a valve job entails the machining of the valve seat, and as I said it is centered off the guide so it will ensure a good seal.

 

I am going to a local Cylinder head shop around here, there aren't many in town to choose from, so I guess they are the only ones. I am not going ot do P&P, just pressing new guides in, valve job, and assembling the valvetrain. Thats all I really want done

 

You can send your head to HEAD or MAX_CFM or fkned here on H-T. All will do a superb job with your head and all know honda's heads pretty well.

 

Honestly, I cannot afford the extra labors, and 2 I have to have this project done VERY soon, I cannot wait to ship out and receive. sorry but I appreciate evrything all of you have done.

I will prob still be buying the Manley valves, so if people could IM me prices again I will make arrangements, I believe the lowest I've seen is 215 shipped from I believe camp1320.com