b18a block, b16a head...anyone have any good reviews on either one? thanks

 

Sounds like today the bandwagon is swinging towards the AEBS, they are both good.

 

Both will work, but the AEBS has a slightly better design. You can feed the studs into the block with an allen wrench and preload them unlike the ARP where you must do by hand. AEBS can be found cheaper too.

By the way, you need B18C head studs for your setup

 

I am a fan of the AEB's ones.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AzSi22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Both will work, but the AEBS has a slightly better design. You can feed the studs into the block with an allen wrench and preload them unlike the ARP where you must do by hand.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The ARP studs that I just received from Lightning have allen holes on top to put them in.

 

So now that they both have allen holes can anybody give a honest truthful responce and back up why one is better then the other?
I know both are good but I have heard of a few bad cases with arp but none yet about aebs.
This is a pretty important part so as much info as possible would be great.

 

AEBS the aebs have a little material at the end of the stud where it seats into the block and makes the stud solid unlike the arp's that you can move around it's kinda hard to explain but they have like an arrow head that make it a really really solid piece to bolt the head down to and get a correcty torque reading...

 

Here is a little review by a few ppl that i totally respect as great engine builders...

why they run aebs over arp

stud bottoms out in block which saves threads from being pulled like arps can do and i have seen
-alot thicker and easier to install the head than with arps that are lil more finiky
-allen head (5/16"?) at top to tighten down to 10 lbs
-you dont need molly to install them, only engine oil
you do need a 13mm 12pt socket to install them, otherwise they are very bling

the studs just all around out shine arp's

 

oh yeah they ar wider in the center i forgot...

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Yeah, forgot to add they have a "pencil tip" so they bottom out in the block

 

AEBS but ARP are also good

 

AEBS

 

I prefer AEBS over the ARP studs.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KTeller8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is a little review by a few ppl that i totally respect as great engine builders...

why they run aebs over arp

stud bottoms out in block which saves threads from being pulled like arps can do and i have seen
-alot thicker and easier to install the head than with arps that are lil more finiky
-allen head (5/16"?) at top to tighten down to 10 lbs
-you dont need molly to install them, only engine oil
you do need a 13mm 12pt socket to install them, otherwise they are very bling

the studs just all around out shine arp's
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I got mine from Camp1320.com for $105 check the sponsored marketplace.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AzSi22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Both will work, but the AEBS has a slightly better design. You can feed the studs into the block with an allen wrench and preload them unlike the ARP where you must do by hand. AEBS can be found cheaper too.

By the way, you need B18C head studs for your setup</TD></TR></TABLE>


he will need gsr head studs for his engine when he uses a b16a head and ls block? i was under the assumption that you were to use b16a head studs??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Code Blue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i was under the assumption that you were to use b16a head studs??</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope

both ls/vtec and b20/vtec take gsr studs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

nope

both ls/vtec and b20/vtec take gsr studs</TD></TR></TABLE>

and that would be due the the head your using? right? Vtec head. use vtec head studs?

 

Actually, more because of deck height, but yes, the head does matter some. The GSR and LS blocks are 7mm taller than B16a blocks, so the B16a studs are too short

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AzSi22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, more because of deck height, but yes, the head does matter some. The GSR and LS blocks are 7mm taller than B16a blocks, so the B16a studs are too short</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what i figured, that the b16a bolts were too short for the b18 block.
thank you for clearing this up for me, it would have been a crappy mistake on my part.

 

what difference does deck height have to do with how long the head bolts have to be?

 

I would think the blocks had about the same depth of threads; and that the head would have more to do with the length of stud.

 

It has a huge difference since the threads are in the same place on the blocks, but the b18 block is 7mm taller. If you have shorter deck height, with a b16a length head stud, the stud will stick up more in the b16a block than the b18 block, 7mm more.

 

OH I didn't releaze the threads started at the same depth relitave to the crank. Yeah, I supose it'd might make a difference then.