Just wondering if this type of fpr will work for turbo, Im runnig z6, turbo hondata 450cc injectors, Ive heard they work better if you drill a bent hole in them all help will be appreciated?

 

what exactly do you want it to do?

 

Problably raise and lowerd, depends when I tuned with hondata!

 

you should be fine with stock FPR...stock FPR can hold pressure pretty well, I doubt there will be any needs to raise or lowere on the static pressure..

stan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should be fine with stock FPR...stock FPR can hold pressure pretty well, I doubt there will be any needs to raise or lowere on the static pressure..

stan</TD></TR></TABLE>

listen to stan

And the B&M is fine, its just the stock reg. with an adjustment screw to press more/less on the spring, thus raising/lowering the fp.

 

My B&M broke and about made me loose thousand of dollars.. would go ahead and get the good one..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedyonez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My B&M broke and about made me loose thousand of dollars.. would go ahead and get the good one..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What happened? How did it break?

 

B&M's FPR may "lock up" over time. The FPR locks wide open, bypassing needed fuel to the tank. With a Walbro 255 LPH HP pump this is not evendent at idle. But at cruising speeds the engine will go lean. If you are in boost/nitrous, kiss the motor goodbye!!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B&M's FPR may "lock up" over time. The FPR locks wide open, bypassing needed fuel to the tank. With a Walbro 255 LPH HP pump this is not evendent at idle. But at cruising speeds the engine will go lean. If you are in boost/nitrous, kiss the motor goodbye!!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmmmmm sounds like my b&m fpr is comin off when i eventully install my turbo kit........

 

what causes this? Wouldn't the spring be forcing the diaphragm down all the time?

 

My friend had this same problem on his turbocharged LS hatch. He had a B & M w/ a Vortech FMU. Either the diaphragm on the Vortech broke b/c of too much pressure caused by the B & M or the B & M got stuck wide open. His setup lasted 3 days.

He went from a 94 LS to a 97 LS and they both went out the same way w/i like a week.

 

How would the B&M get 'stuck wide open'? FPRs have a spring that constantly push on the diaphragm. I could see people lose pressure at wot if that o-ring was broken, and if the diaphragm was broken, it would be 'stuck wide open' but fuel would be shooting up through the vacuum port into the intake mani, NOT causing a lean condition. Unless it came out of the top housing, around the o-ring.

I just don't get how it has failed for you guys. Can one of you explain further?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My friend had this same problem on his turbocharged LS hatch. He had a B & M w/ a Vortech FMU. Either the diaphragm on the Vortech broke b/c of too much pressure caused by the B & M or the B & M got stuck wide open. His setup lasted 3 days.

He went from a 94 LS to a 97 LS and they both went out the same way w/i like a week.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How can you say you had the same problem when you start with "either this happened or this"?

 

From what I've heard and read you cannot use both the B&M FPR and a Vortech FMU. There is too much pressure. Basically you either break the diaphragm on the Vortech or FPR gets stuck open.

 

i myself have only seen problems with the B&M reg and the gauge also

they like to be about 20 psi off also after a while

 

I just read a thread yesterday where one guy complained about the gauge and several other people said they had them and they worked fine. One guy had 2, the B&M and a liquid filled one, both read the same.

I hate to say this, but I am starting to think 'bandwagon'. There can be failures among any product, what you do not here is the success stories. <FONT SIZE="2">Are there any, with regard to the B&M FPR?</FONT>



Modified by slashDEVslashNULL at 1:43 PM 11/30/2003

 

I've had one for 2 years, works great (the gauge too).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've had one for 2 years, works great (the gauge too).</TD></TR></TABLE>
What was your setup? (engine and fuel management)
Thanks BTW.

 

Well its for a DSM but the exact same unit works for the Hondas as well. I was origionally using a walbro 190lph pump with 450cc injectors and 60 psi base fuel pressure. I was running 16 psi at the time. I recently switched to 650cc injectors and turned the pressure down to 40 psi base and run 20-22 psi boost. I dunno, it works good for me.

 

Thanks for the reply - works fine for me too I just picked them up, with walbro 255lph HP. Nothing else is on the car yet.

If anyone else has any GOOD things to say about the B&M FPR please post here. TIA. Or if anyone can explain a little better about how these 'break'. See my post above.

 

ive had mine on for about a year and no probs with the guage or unit.......... although im not FI, thought i might need it when i did the swap but wasnt educated enuf at the time......

 

My B&M has been working fine for two years with a walbro 255 pump, and DSM 450

 

i have a B&M fpr , vortech FMU, and a walbro 255 and i cant get any lower than 50 psi at idle, other than that nothing has busted or failed on me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CostaCivicSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a B&M fpr , vortech FMU, and a walbro 255 and i cant get any lower than 50 psi at idle, other than that nothing has busted or failed on me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats because you have to drill a hole in it to lower the fuel pressure. (bypass)

 

nice trick, first time hearing about that, did a search and saw the endyne site, im gonna have to pick up a .035 drill bit and try it out..thanks

 

It works good, i recomend taking the fpr apart (take the b&m part off) before drilling then take some carb cleaner to it afterwords to make sure you get rid of all the metal shavings.
The only problem that you will have is after drilling it you'll need to prime the car everytime you go to start it (to build fuel pressure), you lose all fuel pressure once the engine is shut off