ATI Damper... Is it really necessary for over 700whp??
I dont have much experience with the ATI damper. I know all the high hp supra guys run them but i think its more or less because the have an inline 6 and rev them real high. Anyone have 1st hand experience with these and are they necessary for say 650-700whp?? or can I get away with the stock pulley?? it even says all cars runnign 10.99 or quicker must have one on the ATI site. I doubt everyone in sport fwd is running one. thanks for any info you can provide.
for those that dont what i am talking about here is a link to the ati damper.
http://www.atiperformanceprodu...t.htm
for those that dont what i am talking about here is a link to the ati damper.
http://www.atiperformanceprodu...t.htm
I looked at ATI or Fluidamper as a benefit for longer lasting, less stress bearings and oil pump gear with anything over 400 ish. True, they are not a big deal unless you're pushing over 600 hp, but I think you'll benefit more on anything over 400 hp, just simply by having that dampener to absorb the stress and vibrations that will eventually wears out your bearings.
stan
stan
The answer would depend on what you're running for a damper now. A lot of guys are running aftermarket underdrive units. This is definetly asking for trouble! The amount of flex generated at certain rpm causes serious twisting of the crank. The stock factory unit does a good job up to 8k. Consitant pulling over this (as in Road Racing) is suicide. What ATI and Fluidampr do is act like the damper in your shocks. The crank basically becomes like a spring (or more like a torsion bar) at certain harmonic zones. The way these racing dampers are designed is that they act like the damper on the shock by taking up some of the energy caused by the flexing. There's a misconception that because of the weight that it robs power. Don't believe it, it's marketing at it's best. Think about it. If your crank is twisting, that creates an unbalanced assembly. It also sends fluxuations to your cam gears which means inconsitant timing.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daigo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The answer would depend on what you're running for a damper now. A lot of guys are running aftermarket underdrive units. This is definetly asking for trouble! The amount of flex generated at certain rpm causes serious twisting of the crank. The stock factory unit does a good job up to 8k. Consitant pulling over this (as in Road Racing) is suicide. What ATI and Fluidampr do is act like the damper in your shocks. The crank basically becomes like a spring (or more like a torsion bar) at certain harmonic zones. The way these racing dampers are designed is that they act like the damper on the shock by taking up some of the energy caused by the flexing. There's a misconception that because of the weight that it robs power. Don't believe it, it's marketing at it's best. Think about it. If your crank is twisting, that creates an unbalanced assembly. It also sends fluxuations to your cam gears which means inconsitant timing.
Hope this helps. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you! I learned a bunch of stuff that I had no idea about before!
Hope this helps. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you! I learned a bunch of stuff that I had no idea about before!
There's no such thing as a "stock" under drive. The term underdrive describes a pully that is dimensionally different from stock to create an underdrive (slower rotating) effect on whatever sytem it's responsible for. If you're wondering if it runs in place of the stock harmonic balancer, the answer is yes.
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From daigo's post it sounds like these are more useful for high RPM applications than merely just high HP. I would like to know why that website claims NHRA requires a SFI approved Damper for under 10.99. Are they afraid your massive honda crank pulley is going to explode and fly into the crowd?
playAho, yes it replaces the stock harmonic balancer.
Muckman, no, harmonic vibrations happen at different rpm points. Kind of like vibrations in your car. You ever notice that irritating rattle in the dash only at a certain engine speed? Same. The reason I suppose NHRA Picks time as the governing factor is the same reasoning used to determine when a cage is needed. It's not that at that speed you're more likeky to blow up, it's that if you do there's greater damage done at that speed. And yes it's because they self destruct when there's big horsepower.
mRgSr, go to they're website. ATI is available now. Fluidampr any day now.
Muckman, no, harmonic vibrations happen at different rpm points. Kind of like vibrations in your car. You ever notice that irritating rattle in the dash only at a certain engine speed? Same. The reason I suppose NHRA Picks time as the governing factor is the same reasoning used to determine when a cage is needed. It's not that at that speed you're more likeky to blow up, it's that if you do there's greater damage done at that speed. And yes it's because they self destruct when there's big horsepower.
mRgSr, go to they're website. ATI is available now. Fluidampr any day now.
Very good info daigo. Another thing I would like to add is that a harmonic damper from honda "OEM" is made for stock components and vibrate at a certain frequency. When you change the pistons, rods and some internals you are also changing the frequency. This is where ATI or Fluidamper really come into play, even at 250whp.
I am running the fluidamper on my car is ready for sale. contact me for one if anyone needs one.
art
I am running the fluidamper on my car is ready for sale. contact me for one if anyone needs one.
art
I am keeping mine, but I sell them too.
maybe I should have said I have one and will sell some if people want them. I didnt mean mine was for sale.
art
maybe I should have said I have one and will sell some if people want them. I didnt mean mine was for sale.
art
ati is a ripoff of the stock pulley with some numbers on it. if youre running a hondata, you really dont need the ATI. if you want a damper that is functional, get a fluidamper. otherwise the stock is just fine
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurBoTeG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the fluidamper SFI approved?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It sure is..
art
It sure is..
art
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorMatrix.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">......... I doubt everyone in sport fwd is running one. </TD></TR></TABLE>
the guys that want to be legal and not protested by ANYONE for ANY REASON are running them. do it right the first time.
the guys that want to be legal and not protested by ANYONE for ANY REASON are running them. do it right the first time.
I don't know why you wouldn't run one, small price to pay for something that would seem to have a high benefit in bottom engine harmonics / dynamics.
I guess i'll stick with stock for now. I dont plan to rev more than 9500 which was the same as my last setup. just gonna make a little more hp.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurBoTeG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the fluidamper SFI approved?</TD></TR></TABLE>
from reading above posts this would be the best unit to get
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from reading above posts this would be the best unit to get
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