So i've gotten the lude running again after 6 months of sleep. i had GE do a lot of work and after finally getting it back in i hear some knocking sounds. i take it to my mechanic, he takes off the head and checks valves and pistons. We agree that is sounds like rod knock. It drives fine now, but am i in for a rude awakening very soon?
It would be so depressing to take the engine back out after only a couple hundred miles.

 

Good luck. GE does it again......

 

why is the mechanic checking the pistons/valves when he believes it's rod knock? Did he not take a look at the rod/main bearings?

 

Are you planning on turboing your car??

Just curious.

 

golden eagle are chumps i orderd a scatter shield for a h series thsoe chumps sent me a b series one , and i had to pay for the shippign to send the b series one back and they sent me the h series one the one i ordered, i lost 15 bucks on shipping , why do we have to pay out of our pockets for their mistakes, never doing busines with golden egale ever again, wack *** custumer service, i had to argue with the that they sent me the worng one they wouldnt believe me, they said u should have a proffesional place install it , i was liek no professional can install a bseries scatter sheild on a h series tranny.

 

like jz said.... It's normal when running aftermarket forged pistons to knock a bit or make more noise than regular cast pistons. I think it also depends on the piston/wall clearence chosen. I wouldn't worry to much about it, call GE to be sure but as far as I'm concerned they are a very reputable company who do very good work what u describe does not seem out of the ordinary.

 

when the mechanic inspected the sound, he told me that after the engine warmed up the sound went away. after driving it for a couple hundred miles, i've noticed it still knocks (even after warm-up) right around 2K rpms. GE told me i needed to check clearance on the valves and pistons and signs of detonation. of course there aren't any, i assume they believe the valves hit the piston at one point and time. if this is normal, i wont worry about it, however, GE seems to think it's not normal. I'm just worried about what the knock could lead to, spun bearings, etc...

 

and yes, it's eventually going to be boosted. all a matter of when i get enough green.

and if it makes any difference, i'm not experiencing any kind of power decrease, just the knocking sound. which reminds me, should i remove the knock sensor?

 

If it was a rod knock, you would know it was a rod knock. As the motor increases the rpm's the knock will be more noticeable. I am going to have to second the motion of it being piston slap. Do you by any chance have a sheet with the tolerances that GE did on the motor?

 

My endyn's have barely any piston slap...it's nice.

My old Arias pistons slapped like a bitch all the time

 

I agree, forged pistons don't "absorb" like cast ones....... also, it may be valve tap if it is increasing as rpm's do...... my old shitty *** blazer w/240k valve taps like hell, you'd think it was a rod or a small child in there, but its the valves....... how new is your head?

 

the head is the original, but with new valves, springs, and P&P. The knock sound definitally does not get any louder at higher rpms. if anything it almost goes away after 3K. the pistons are wiseco and i do not have a sheet with tolerances from GE. are you thinking it could be something else? my mechanic mentioned a considerable amount of lateral movement in the pistons. GE tells me that the lateral movement is normal.

 

Where the hell are you people getting your srpings and retainers... let me in on that please!.......anyway...... did GE build the block too? lateral, as in? the move L to R? that doesn't seem "normal"

 

So everyone knows the situation here is the story for the last 6 months.

I sent my bare block and crank to GE. they resleeved, bored and honed to 88 mm. they installed the crower rods and wiseco 9.0:1 pistons and sent me back the block.
I sent my head to portflow for new springs, P&P, and other small things.
I get the motor and head back and i put it in the car myself. i couldn't get the car to idle and assumed that it was because the motor still needed to be broke in a little. so i drove it around the neighborhood. i'd only been working on the car in the weekends because of school so it took a while to get everything together.
i go home the next weekend and drive it about 10 miles and the timing belt breaks. turns out the springs were to strong.

At this point i have no time to work on it myself, so i send it to the mechanic. He tells me that the springs were too strong and broke the belt. We remove the inner of the dual springs and run the outer spring. 3 valves are bent, those are replaced, no signs of damage to the pistons, and engine was put back together.

This leads up to last week. I get the car back which now runs perfectly fine except for the knocking sound. and by lateral, he meant L to R.

The sound existed before the timing belt broke, but was not as prominent as it is now.

 

Isn't there a material you can get pistons made out of that don't expand with heat?? its called hyper something I think ....

Wouldn't those be a better alternative?

 

it's hyperutechtic (sp?) and i believe that is what the stock pistons are. i'm boosting and i have resleeved the block, so that's why i have forged pistons.

 

stock honda pistons are hypereutectic? no wonder some dont respond well to boost...its a blen of aluminum, silicon, and one other i believe....cheaper than forged...but not as strong in some cases for boost....my gsr slaps like a **** on cold starts....then goes away at running temp....and yes rod knock is unmistakable, especially with a GE block running Eagle rods.....eg Turbo Sam....that thing was sounding like a jackhammer, and the honda bearings were shredded to little confetti pieces.....