Skunk2 Intake Manifold?
I thinking about getting a shunk2 manifold for my B18C1(type R cams, pistons), but wanted to hear from anyone who has one first. I mean what's it like not to have those secondary butterfly's open up? I love that sound! And I know the runner length is shorter, but is there a hp difference that you can feel in the seat or does the gain have to be seen at the dyno? Also, is it a situation where now the air is bumped up so the fuel must be bumped up to, i.e. bigger injectors or higher fuel pressure?
i like the manifold you will miss the sound of the secondaries kick in but you will hear the vtec kick louder installation is a bitch and a few extra parts are required i believe the manifold is a worth while mod especially with new cams.
I have that manifold and love it. I got a huge increase in midrange (+15hp). Its definitely helps your engine breathe if you have a lot of mods like I do.
Getting the old manifold off is hard cause of those two lower bolts on the bottom but putting the new one on is a breeze.
Getting the old manifold off is hard cause of those two lower bolts on the bottom but putting the new one on is a breeze.
I've had mine for several months now. it was hell taking the old one out and I tore lots of skin doing it. Yes it does go in easy though. I'm getting a hondata and turbo soon and I was hoping to figure out an easy way to get it off again to put the heat shield manifold gasket in. I spent alot on a used throttle body just to get the little rotor off it so I can use a type R throttle cable and bracket but that really cleaned it up so you can use the strut bar. the air intake won't fit anymore so I just took the air filter out of the box and left it just sitting in the engine compartment. Its secure enough and hasn't come loose and is temporary till turbo time.
the car ran like **** at first till I turned down my fuel pressure to just below minimum stock specs (38psi at idle). it runs just fine now but no better than stock. you'll see improvement if you add other mods such as forced induction and a better exhaust.
the car ran like **** at first till I turned down my fuel pressure to just below minimum stock specs (38psi at idle). it runs just fine now but no better than stock. you'll see improvement if you add other mods such as forced induction and a better exhaust.
I've installed and dyno'd at least ten of these things. They work really well, but work best with adjustable cam gears. Without them, you get gains above 7000rpm, but suffer in the midrange. If you already have cam gears, and have had them tuned with the GSR manifold, you'll need to retune them. With stock cams, usually a setting of advance 1 or 2 nets the best power, the exhaust somewhere between retarded 1 and 2 degrees also. Putting these settings on will get you back that midrange power, and gain some as well. These settings work for both GSR and Type R cams. Hope that helps.
I still have the stock GSR throttle body, but that raises another question or point. I guess it's probablly a good idea to upgraded the throttle body if I'm going to do the manifold(?). If so, what throttle body is recommended? Man, mo' money!
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Gruvy...I just wanted to mention that when Ive installed the skunks with hondata heat shields I've had to grind some of the surface off the manifold arpund the bolt holes or else there wasn't enough thread coming through to thread a bolt securely onto the stud. basically the heatshield with washers are too thick and you run out of stud...you could put longer ones in, which is a better solution, or just grind a few mills off the flange.
just a heads up if you plan on going this route...
dave w
just a heads up if you plan on going this route...
dave w
Geeze,
how thick is the thing? guess i'll find out in a couple of days when it gets here.
if you grind around the bolt holes, what keeps the rest of the gasket from keeping it from fitting? the space required will be the same anyway. Won't that increase the chance of leaking? Do you use hondabond with the install? thanks for the heads up.
torin
how thick is the thing? guess i'll find out in a couple of days when it gets here.
if you grind around the bolt holes, what keeps the rest of the gasket from keeping it from fitting? the space required will be the same anyway. Won't that increase the chance of leaking? Do you use hondabond with the install? thanks for the heads up.
torin
i grind on the outside of the manifold to make the flange thinner so the studs stick through further. basically you have the stud coming out of the head, a gasket, the flange, a gasket washer, and then the nut....so taking some off the flange thickness makes the nut go on further.
or like I said you can get longer studs.
no hondabond...its a dry mount...
dave w
or like I said you can get longer studs.
no hondabond...its a dry mount...
dave w
http://tiiite.b16a.com/sk2intake.htm
they have the full list of the stuff you'll need to put the thing in
--justin
they have the full list of the stuff you'll need to put the thing in
--justin
I know that you are supposed to remove the IAB cause the skunk2 manifold doesnt used this... BUT WHICH ONE IS THE IAB...is the EVAP purge control the black box that is located in the under the intake manifold
Is there any website or any pic that i can see the skunk2 manifold install or just the picture of the IAB and the EVAP
Thanks for the info
Is there any website or any pic that i can see the skunk2 manifold install or just the picture of the IAB and the EVAP
Thanks for the info
The thing that sits under the manifold (directly under the manifold) is the dual runner control. That is what leaves and goes in the trash. Everything else stays.
Does anyone here have the Type-R manifold on there GS-R? Will u need the ITR throttle cable with this set up like for the set up of the Skunk2 intake manifold?
Anyone has a link for this type of install????
[Modified by CTR94Joes, 8:24 AM 9/21/2001]
[Modified by CTR94Joes, 8:26 AM 9/21/2001]
Anyone has a link for this type of install????
[Modified by CTR94Joes, 8:24 AM 9/21/2001]
[Modified by CTR94Joes, 8:26 AM 9/21/2001]
If you put a type-r manifold on your gsr, you wont be able to put in your strut bar if you dont change your throttle cable...oh and you dont just change your throttle cable you also need the type-r throttle cable bracket and a throttle rotor from either a b18a-b, b16a, or type-r...anyone throttle rotor will work, you just cant use the b18c(gsr) throttle rotor...change all three anD you will be OK...and you will have a front strut.
Stuff to get
1. Type-r Throttle cable
2. Type-r Throttle bracket
3. B18a-b,b16a,h22-h23, Type-r throttle rotor (ALL WILL WORK)
[Modified by DelsolVtec18, 12:23 AM 9/27/2001]
Stuff to get
1. Type-r Throttle cable
2. Type-r Throttle bracket
3. B18a-b,b16a,h22-h23, Type-r throttle rotor (ALL WILL WORK)
[Modified by DelsolVtec18, 12:23 AM 9/27/2001]
Thanks but it's not going on a GS-R car itself. The GS-R is in a civic coupe so no need for the strut bar to be replaced. I have the cable bracket and about to get the throttle cable. Also, will I still need the Type-R rotor if I have a Type-R throttle body? Also if I don't get the ITR throttle cable can I use the GS-R one?
The strut bar is not going to fit in the civic if you dont change the throttle cable...I had to change it on my delsol too...No, if you get a type-r throttle body there should be a type-r throttle rotor on it...if there is no throttle rotor on the type-r throttle for some reason then you will need to get a throttle rotor that is anything else but B18C aka GSR.
Also if I don't get the ITR throttle cable can I use the GS-R one?
Yes, if you just use the gsr throttle rotor, you can use the gs-r throttle cable but then because of how high the gsr throttle bracket, you wont be able to put on the front strut bar.
No, if you have a ITR throttle body then you will need to get a ITR throttle cable
Also if I don't get the ITR throttle cable can I use the GS-R one?
Yes, if you just use the gsr throttle rotor, you can use the gs-r throttle cable but then because of how high the gsr throttle bracket, you wont be able to put on the front strut bar.
No, if you have a ITR throttle body then you will need to get a ITR throttle cable
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