Eradic reving, clunk noise upon start up, car almost dies at very light throttle *VIDEO*
Hi all,
I have a few issues that seemed to just come up. I noticed a clunking noise that started when you turn on the car, and sometimes during shifts. It seems to be coming from the passenger side of the hood, I suspect the BOV since there is nothing else really there. I have a video that shows the sound upon start up. You can sort of hear it on the start up, but then I rev the engine lightly and you can REALLY hear it. Heres the link:
http://www.hephaestusnetwork.c...t.avi
Now for problem number two. When I am sitting in nuetral, holding the thorttle at a constant throttle percentage, my revs are eradic. For example, if I am at 10% throtle at about 3000 RPM, the revs drop from 3000 to 2500, then back to 3000 and so on. I have two videos for this, one of the tach, and one of the VAFC. Heres the link to those:
http://www.hephaestusnetwork.c...s.avi
http://www.hephaestusnetwork.c...v.avi
Now lastly, when I apply a light throttle, my revs dip from the normal 700 RPM or so to about 300 RPM and the car almost dies, in fact while I was making these videos, the car DID die once doing this. It dips down, but then regains itself and functions normally. It sometimes does this, sometimes not. I am confused. Thanks for your help. Here is my setup for any of you that need to know it:
2000 Civic Si w/ b16a2
Drag III w/ Blitz DD BOV (if it matters)
3" Cat back to magnaflow muffler
Apexi VAFC
DSM 450cc
Walbro 255 lph hp in-tank
Thanks!
I have a few issues that seemed to just come up. I noticed a clunking noise that started when you turn on the car, and sometimes during shifts. It seems to be coming from the passenger side of the hood, I suspect the BOV since there is nothing else really there. I have a video that shows the sound upon start up. You can sort of hear it on the start up, but then I rev the engine lightly and you can REALLY hear it. Heres the link:
http://www.hephaestusnetwork.c...t.avi
Now for problem number two. When I am sitting in nuetral, holding the thorttle at a constant throttle percentage, my revs are eradic. For example, if I am at 10% throtle at about 3000 RPM, the revs drop from 3000 to 2500, then back to 3000 and so on. I have two videos for this, one of the tach, and one of the VAFC. Heres the link to those:
http://www.hephaestusnetwork.c...s.avi
http://www.hephaestusnetwork.c...v.avi
Now lastly, when I apply a light throttle, my revs dip from the normal 700 RPM or so to about 300 RPM and the car almost dies, in fact while I was making these videos, the car DID die once doing this. It dips down, but then regains itself and functions normally. It sometimes does this, sometimes not. I am confused. Thanks for your help. Here is my setup for any of you that need to know it:
2000 Civic Si w/ b16a2
Drag III w/ Blitz DD BOV (if it matters)
3" Cat back to magnaflow muffler
Apexi VAFC
DSM 450cc
Walbro 255 lph hp in-tank
Thanks!
How long have you been running that setup? And when did all of this start? Just all of a sudden?
BUMP for you, because I can't help.
BUMP for you, because I can't help.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slashDEVslashNULL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How long have you been running that setup? And when did all of this start? Just all of a sudden?
BUMP for you, because I can't help.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ive been running it for about 1200 miles so far. The clunk all of a sudden happened....the eradic reving HAS been happening for a while.
BUMP for you, because I can't help.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Ive been running it for about 1200 miles so far. The clunk all of a sudden happened....the eradic reving HAS been happening for a while.
bump for someone that must have some sort of input on these problems
I have similar problems with my D16z6 on the hack. Stock pump. But it seems to run good. When i hold the throttle at like 15% at like 2500RPM the revs will fluctuate 300rpm as well. Im not too worried about it.
I used to have that idle problem a while back when it was warmer, but it seems to have gone away now.
I used to have that idle problem a while back when it was warmer, but it seems to have gone away now.
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I'm in the same boat, I don't have the clunk noise, but I do have the RPM problems.
My setup is a D16Y8 with a Drag 3 kit, a walbro intank pump, DSM 450cc, and V-AFC hack.
Anyone have any ideas?
My setup is a D16Y8 with a Drag 3 kit, a walbro intank pump, DSM 450cc, and V-AFC hack.
Anyone have any ideas?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igotyofire »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thatz very weird, question for u people tho does the car still boost fine and all that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
it seems like it...but then again ive never felt boost on a honda except for my car...so I dont know anything different.
it seems like it...but then again ive never felt boost on a honda except for my car...so I dont know anything different.
Part throttle, light/zero load surging is usually a result of a lean condition. It can also be caused when the throttle body is just barely open and small movements of your foot change airflow dramatically.
C_A_T
C_A_T
That clunk sounds almost like a brief knock, it may just be a coincedence, but it occurs just as you apply throttle. It may be that the engine is moving at that point too and something is hitting the surrounding sheet metal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stubbs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That clunk sounds almost like a brief knock, it may just be a coincedence, but it occurs just as you apply throttle. It may be that the engine is moving at that point too and something is hitting the surrounding sheet metal.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if it was a knock, wouldnt my knock sensor catch it? i am only throwing 2 codes, Baro sensor and fuel too lean or too rich. My understanding was that those are not uncommon with the hack. Now that I think about it, its kinda like its coming from the passenger side front wheel well. i am stumped.
if it was a knock, wouldnt my knock sensor catch it? i am only throwing 2 codes, Baro sensor and fuel too lean or too rich. My understanding was that those are not uncommon with the hack. Now that I think about it, its kinda like its coming from the passenger side front wheel well. i am stumped.
if you have a friend watch the engine while the e-brake is on and let go of the clutch real fast in first gear and then push it in quickly, maybe the other person can see if its a motor mount for sure.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tgh99si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have a friend watch the engine while the e-brake is on and let go of the clutch real fast in first gear and then push it in quickly, maybe the other person can see if its a motor mount for sure. </TD></TR></TABLE>
this may sound dumb....but how do I see that it is a motor mount, like what would I look for, i know WHERE the motor mounts are...but what do I look for when looking at them. Also, when I release the clutch, do I give it any gas? Thanks
this may sound dumb....but how do I see that it is a motor mount, like what would I look for, i know WHERE the motor mounts are...but what do I look for when looking at them. Also, when I release the clutch, do I give it any gas? Thanks
dont give it any gas, just let go real quick then push the clutch back in. my hudraulic motor mount was broke and i could feel the motor move but didnt know which one it was so me and my dad did this and that hydraulic(oil filled or something) one on the 99-00 si was cracked and we could see it move when i let go of the clutch. just check them all out and im sure youll see if you got one broke or soemthing.
I haven't been able to view your video yet(work), but I have the same type of thing when my car starts up and it is almost always the charge piping bumping the upper tranny motor mount upon start up. I usually stick a small piece of rubber between the piping and the mount and it always fixes the problem.
I have the same problem as you with the low idle, but mine is not erratic. Usually when the weather change drastically my idles will get really low until the car gets used to the weather(i know this sounds crazy). I think it has something to do with the MAP or something since it first happened preturbo set up.
I have the same problem as you with the low idle, but mine is not erratic. Usually when the weather change drastically my idles will get really low until the car gets used to the weather(i know this sounds crazy). I think it has something to do with the MAP or something since it first happened preturbo set up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C_A_T »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Part throttle, light/zero load surging is usually a result of a lean condition. It can also be caused when the throttle body is just barely open and small movements of your foot change airflow dramatically.
C_A_T</TD></TR></TABLE>
Listen to this guy... my car used to do that when my O2 sensor was blown. Holding the throttle at 10% or whatever, the idle would surge up and down 500 or so in tune with the air/fuel going rich/lean
A new O2 sensor fixed that problem.
See? Even the cheap autometer air/fuel gauges have a purpose. Plus, the ladies love 'em
C_A_T</TD></TR></TABLE>
Listen to this guy... my car used to do that when my O2 sensor was blown. Holding the throttle at 10% or whatever, the idle would surge up and down 500 or so in tune with the air/fuel going rich/lean
A new O2 sensor fixed that problem. See? Even the cheap autometer air/fuel gauges have a purpose. Plus, the ladies love 'em
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
See? Even the cheap autometer air/fuel gauges have a purpose. Plus, the ladies love 'em
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know man, I have picked up 3 girls with my LM-1 wideband
My car did the same when the wire on my narrow band o2 feed was loose.
See? Even the cheap autometer air/fuel gauges have a purpose. Plus, the ladies love 'em
</TD></TR></TABLE>I don't know man, I have picked up 3 girls with my LM-1 wideband

My car did the same when the wire on my narrow band o2 feed was loose.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Listen to this guy... my car used to do that when my O2 sensor was blown. Holding the throttle at 10% or whatever, the idle would surge up and down 500 or so in tune with the air/fuel going rich/lean
A new O2 sensor fixed that problem.
See? Even the cheap autometer air/fuel gauges have a purpose. Plus, the ladies love 'em
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm could a bad o2 sensor have something to do with my ultra-shitty gas mileage? i imagine so...but then again im stupid.
Listen to this guy... my car used to do that when my O2 sensor was blown. Holding the throttle at 10% or whatever, the idle would surge up and down 500 or so in tune with the air/fuel going rich/lean
A new O2 sensor fixed that problem. See? Even the cheap autometer air/fuel gauges have a purpose. Plus, the ladies love 'em
</TD></TR></TABLE>hmm could a bad o2 sensor have something to do with my ultra-shitty gas mileage? i imagine so...but then again im stupid.
hrmm. that knock could be something just knocking something.
did you hook up all the vaccum lines? check em all? incl the ones into the intake mani.
btw what exhaust is that? sounds nice
did you hook up all the vaccum lines? check em all? incl the ones into the intake mani.
btw what exhaust is that? sounds nice
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">btw what exhaust is that? sounds nice</TD></TR></TABLE>
KTeller8's 3" piping with magnaflow muffler. thanks
KTeller8's 3" piping with magnaflow muffler. thanks


