what is the best way to check the REAR mount on a 98 accord (4-cyl) automatic?
I've inspected the hose and don't see any leaks? What else? Thanks.

 

I gotta remember to check my Helm book for sure... I know the procedure's in there. I think you disconnect the solenoid valve & use a MityVac to operate the mount; then check the valve & it's circuit for operation. The only part I remember for sure; you disconnect the vacuum hose, use a MityVac to operate the mount. When idling in gear (have someone inside to hold the brakes ), you should feel an obvious difference in vibration from the driver's seat.

Were you able to check the balance shaft timing? I remember you said the belts were OK, but you can't even see the balance shaft belt unless you take off the lower timing cover. Even then, the rear balance shaft doesn't have a timing mark; you put a bolt through a hole in the back of the block. Not a quick & easy job to check that...

 

hi, Jim

yeh i talked with the HONDA dealership mechanic, and he did remove the upper and lower covers and observe the balancer belt and he says everthing was correct. When you refer to HELMS is the HAYNES book?

Thanks.

 

The GOOD repair book is Helm. http://www.helminc.com
Pricier than Haynes, but a lot more detailed.

PS...
A friend of mine found a genuine HELM repair book for his '89 Legend at the public library.


Modified by JimBlake at 1:55 PM 11/24/2003

 

Jim,

thanks for the info on the manual, i will check it out.

By the way, i remember when i talked to the HONDA mechanic, he said that indeed there are timing marks on the lower part of the balancer belt area. He did say the "bolt" method is also another way to check to see if the balancer belt was installed correctly. As far as my idle vibration in all gears, EVERYBODY is stumped.
I've tried everything. New plugs, distributer, rotor button, adjusted valves, new idle control valve. The vibration is there, and it aggravates me since it was not there before the timing belt and balancer belt operation. Many mechanics say this is typical of 4-cyl honda motors. But it's just hard for me to swallow. Do you have any other ideas? You sound like one of the most intellegent ones on this web site.
Thanks.

 

Anthony,

My '95 wagon had the same vibration after I had the belts replaced. I took the car back three times and they couldn't find anything wrong.

I took it to a different shop a month or two back and they found straight away that the tension on the left side mount was way too high. They adjusted it and hey presto back to normal - no vibration.

It's worth finding a good shop for your Honda - one that genuinely cares. I'm definitely not going back to the first shop.

Mark

 

OK I looked it up. This is for a '98 or '99 Accord with 4-cylinder & automatic transmission. I suppose other years are similar, but I don't know.

Background info...
The mount only works when engine speed is less than 1000 rpm. The solenoid valve is mounted on the firewall near the throttle body. It gets constant +12v from the black/yellow wire, and the green/white wire goes to the PCM (powertrain control module). The PCM grounds that wire when it wants to activate the mount.

Testing...
The engine has to be warmed up, the idle has to be 800 rpm or less.

1) Hold the brake, engine idling, transmission in gear (R or D). Have someone unplug the electrical plug from the solenoid valve. There should be a noticeable increase in vibration. If so, the system is OK & you're done.

2) Shift into neutral or park, leave it idling. Check voltage from the black/yellow wire to ground. Should be battery voltage.
Yes = OK; go on to #3
No => fix the busted wire (or fuse, loose connector, etc...); go back & check #1 again

3) Check voltage BETWEEN the two wires. Should be battery voltage.
Yes = OK; go on to #4
No => fix open circuit in the green/white wire (to PCM); check #1 again

4) Hold engine speed above 1000 rpm. Check the same as #3. Should NOT be battery voltage.
zero volts = OK; go on to #5
12v => fix short to ground in the green/white wire; check #1 again

5) Unplug hose going to intake manifold. Should be good vacuum - hose shouldn't be plugged.

6) Unplug hose going to engine mount. Put it on a MityVac & suck a vacuum. That hose (& the engine mount) should hold vacuum. If not, find the leak - replace either the hose or the mount.

7) If nothing else works, try a different PCM.

 

Jim,

Thanks for the information. You are very kind. One question. #5 says to "unplug hose going to intake manifold". Where is this hose? do you have any pictures?
Thanks,
Your friend,
Anthony.

 

Could you please describe you vibration at idle? Did it vibrate it in all gears includig park, neutral, reverse, drive, etc. Did the vibration get worse when you turned on your headlights?
Thanks.

 

The valve on the firewall has one electrical connector & 2 vacuum hoses. The valve isn't the same shape as the picture in the Helm manual (that's kinda strange). But it's pretty much the only valve that's mounted on the firewall. One vacuum hose goes down to the engine mount. The other hose loops around & goes to a fitting on the throttle body. I should have said that instead of manifold...

Based on all the earlier postings, I don't think my vibration means much for your car. Mine only does it idling in gear, not in neutral or park. It's a bit worse for cold start in winter, probably because it's under a bit more load. I originally mentioned mine because I thought maybe yours was normal & you were just beginning to notice it more after changing your belt. If dealer mechanics feel it & say it's not normal, I can't argue with that. I'm not accustomed to automatic transmissions, so I noticed the vibration when we got the car.

The problem with diagnosing this in a BB is that I can't try your car & you can't try mine to compare.

PS... I like the idea about the left engine mount. I didn't know it could be tightened or loosened.

 

Hi jim,

On my lunch hour today I had my boss sit in my car and he placed his hands on the steering wheel while i disconnected the electrical plug at the solenoid and he claims the vibration got a little worse. When i plugged it back in my boss claims the vibration got better but agrees that it is still there. This means according to your previous post that the REAR ENGINE MOUNT is working properly.
Good try Jim. But I am still STUMPED!! Thanks for your help.
As far as your vibration, my car went though exactly what yours is doing now. Slight idle vibration ONLY in drive or reverse. Park and neurtal is smooth. I think for sure yours is NORMAL. My vibration is strange and i have tried everything. I even had a local HONDA dealership loosen all mounts - run engine- and re-tighten.
No luck. Vibration at idle still exists. Any other ideas?????????


Modified by Elvis1977 at 3:03 PM 11/25/2003

 

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