I just finished swapping a first gen b16 into my eg. I converted it to obd 1 and i am running it off a p28. I still have the original iacv on there and the ecu is throwing the iacv code. The problem i am having is... when i give it gas the engine seems to get stuck at 1500rpms. I have to give it a lot more gas to get it to rev over that. And once it is over 1500 i have a hard time maintaining a certain rmp. When i am driving it and tryign to maintain a certain speed the car jerks like crazy. I obviously need to get a new iacv from a dol sol vtec and i want to know if this is likely to fix my problem or do yall think something else is going on?

 

It sounds like a definite IACV problem. Try cleaning the screens out on the one you have. If that doesnt work its time for a new IACV which sucks because they are pretty expensive unless you can find a new one.

 

With the engine off, ignition on, does the IACV click when you unplug/plug it back in? If not, check your wiring.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeStUdO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It sounds like a definite IACV problem. Try cleaning the screens out on the one you have. If that doesnt work its time for a new IACV which sucks because they are pretty expensive unless you can find a new one. </TD></TR></TABLE>

how much are they. I thought those were pretty cheap. I guess i'll find out at lunch today when i go to the honda dealer.

 

they are like 130 new.

 

hey man I have the same exact problem except on mine it only happens every once and a while. Just now it happened two days in a row though. The weird thing is that once I resset my ecu the problem will go right away. Anybody know the problem? It pulses right around 1500 rpms and just sticks there. I also have to give it crazy gas to rev over 1500. Makes it awful to drive.

 

The honda dealer just told me 170 for a new one. Resetting the ecu isnt working for me. After I reset it the cel will stay off until i give it gas. Will an obd 2 one work or will it have to be obd 1?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeStUdO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It sounds like a definite IACV problem. Try cleaning the screens out on the one you have. If that doesnt work its time for a new IACV which sucks because they are pretty expensive unless you can find a new one. </TD></TR></TABLE>

gotta try this as well. thanks tetsudo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Perfectionist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the engine off, ignition on, does the IACV click when you unplug/plug it back in? If not, check your wiring.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is true too but only with a 2 wire IACV not a 3 wire. For an in depth explanation on how to check it PM me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Perfectionist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the engine off, ignition on, does the IACV click when you unplug/plug it back in? If not, check your wiring.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had the wiring sooooo messed up. While I was messing around trying to figure things out i realized that I had the wrong connector connected to the iacv. Another problem i was having was that my radiator fan would not turn off. It turns out that I wired the wires for the iacv to the coolant temp switch.
+ engine swapping=

can anyone tell me what color the wires are that are connected to the coolant temp switch?