As a part of the major revisions to my car, I wanted to check the rod bearings while installing the Function7 5-main girdle.

I removed the #3 rod cap and the upper bearing half came sliding down. I took one look at the back of the bearing half and knew that I had spun the bearing.





The pictures really don't do it justice. They're actually more gnarly than they look to be in the pics.

I replaced them with a pair of black rod bearings (D3 code) and they plastigaged to ~.0015". Good enough for me until the engine gets rebuilt.

The #2 rod bearings are fine, but I'll probably replace them as well. They plastigaged to just under .002". I'll try and hit .0015" with a pair of brown rod bearings.

I haven't gotten around to #'s 1 and 4 yet. I need some BPC first to clean off the plastigage.

I've mentioned the cold start knocking issue before on my car and others have had it too. Basically, the engine will knock sometimes on cold starts (and very seldomly on warm starts) and the knock will go away as soon as the oil pressure light goes out. I'm guessing that issue is directly related to my spun rod bearing.

Hopefully a set of new rod bearings will cure those issues and that the Accusump will help to prevent it from happening again.

 

where would i buy a plastigage from?

 

You can get one at practically any auto parts store. I got mine from Napa when I reassembled my '91 Talon TSi AWD's motor.

 

I always buy mine from Autozone b/c they sell the green plastigage in individual strips. It's $.99. That way I won't have a bunch of red plastigage laying around.

If I buy a package from Pepboys, I have to buy the green, red, and whatever else comes with it for $4 or something like that.

 

i have my bottom end opened right now ( no oil pan , or header anythign in the way , and no metal windedge tray)
i wanna check to see if everyhting is ok , does anyone have any info on this ??

how to check out my rod bearings. . .

 

um... RTFM?

 

whats that stand for??

RETARTED troll ***** MAMMA ??

( i know what it stands for )
read the ******* manuel
well i asked a question, if you dont wanna help me out , move on and back off . .


and i wasnt asking you anyway . . .

 

Here's the short and skinny.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...s.php

Cresecent does a pretty good job of explaining it, but some of the finer details are not touched upon.

You should also use the manual's torque down specs instead of the 45lb*ft that's listed on the C-speed site.

It also doesn't really go into how interpret the squish, but most people can figure that out on their own pretty easily.

You should also know how to determine bearing sizes based upon the letter/number combinations stamped on the crank/block/rods as well as the relative Honda bearing sizes based upon color (ie: a green bearing is thinner than a brown bearing). If you don't know how, take a look at the manual and/or ask me.

 

thanks man

would i have a spun bearing , just from driving hard on a 100 k miles motor . . . ??

does it sounds bad , what are some signs ??

thanx again

 

those bearings dont look like they have been spun, just starved of oil, or had contaminated oil run through them. they still have the notches in the end of them, which get sheared off when a bearing spins.

 

well thanks for your input sailor... now riddle me this, if you take off a rod cap and the bearings are 20 degrees away from where they are supposed to sit... what do you call it?

 

OK. So they're not spun.

What's really weird is that the #4 rod bearings show the least amount of wear. Any wear present is well distributed.

The #4 bearings plastigaged to somewhere b/w .0025" and .0030". I'm still trying to figure it out. All the others were b/w .0015" (#1) and somewhere around .0017" for #2 and #3.