the part I'm talking about is the piece the steering rack bolts into that holds the control arms. I did a search and people called it both the rear crossmember and the subframe. but either way, I messed mine up to the point that I'm not confident it will hold the control arms properly. just trust me, it's messed up.

so now I need to get a new one. how hard is it to get the piece out? the shift linkage and header are still disconnected... I had yanked the engine to do the clutch. I can take the bolt outa the rear mount and hold the engine with the hoist too. so how much of a headache is it to get this thing out?

lastly, they don't list crossmember or subframe on car-parts.com . would this part be considered the "engine cradle?" and is it interchangable between different EFs and CRXs? cause there's a listing for that. seems right.


Modified by IggDawg at 10:41 AM 11/21/2003


Modified by IggDawg at 10:42 AM 11/21/2003

 

well I guess junkyards consider it the "front crossmember." I asked for "that part there that the control arms and the steering rack bolt into." and they quoted me 75 bucks. so yeah. I guess I'll document how much work it is for everyone's reference when they search.

 

First, remove the anti-sway bar. Then you'll need to use some sort of ball joint puller to remove the tie rod ends from the knuckle. Then you'll need to remove the steering column cover and take out the bottom bolt that holds the steering column to the steering gear. Pull the steering rack all the way to the passenger side and you should be able to seperate the gearbox from the cross member. Then it's a simple matter of removing the 4 bolts that hold it on and letting it fall.

I couldn't tell you if they're the same on for hatches/crx, but I'd definitely suggest a junkyard part.

 

I Sold one for 75 shipped.
Its easy to pull and replace, vary straight forward.
You will have to remove the header and shiftlinkeage.

 

You guys just made my day. I was sure there was going to be some magic part made of kryptonite or something that'd be a huge pain to take off. thanks for the info. much less stressed.

 

pm sent

 

I used one from a Civic hatch on my CRX so yes they're interchangeable...

 

Wish you the best of luck. Hopefully no more bolts will break off.

Does Sterling MA USA "salt" the roads in the winter? If so be careful removing other bolts as well. I'd soak everything in penetrating spray, and repeatedly "tap" OR “shock” each bolt BEFORE trying to remove them to cut down on the chance of "more" broken /seized bolts. There is a chance that the bolts holding the sub frame might snap as well.

If one breaks that going into the uni-body itself you’ll really have your work cut out for you!


PS: I'd coat the bolts going into the frame with Anti-Seize. If it were me, I’d take out all adjoining bolts, clean them, and re-install after coating them with Anti-Seize if I lived up north.

 

El Vap - excellent. thanks for the info. the one I have lined up right now is off a HB, so that's good to know.

Alan - yeah, we got salt. and lots of it. they prefer salt to plowing . I've decided to take a break from working ferociously on teh car tonight, so maybe I'll let everything sit with some penetrating oil overnight. front crossmember (well, the one under the radiator) came off with no issues with bolts. hopefully the one I need to do now will be so kind.

 

The reason I say all the above is I used to work on cars professionally. I remember back in the 80’s when allot of “gray market” German cars were imported form Europe… They put salt on the roads it seemed, as every time you had to do anything underneath the car it was a pain.

Salt eats everything…

So far as the front support giving little trouble, most of the time areas that are exposed to “spray” from the tires are most affected. The front section gets little spray. Expect more "issues" behind the wheel line. (Areas exposed to water /salt that has been thrown up)

Another issue that most people don’t realize is if the car is a LHD car the right side of the car catches hell… (Potholes, water, and such), if it’s a RHD car the reverse is true. The passenger side seems to give the most trouble, as this is the side potholes, puddles, etc are most likely to be on… Hence that side wears out quicker (balljoints and such)… and gets sprayed with “salted water” more.


FYI: If you have access to an air hammer… you may want to “tap” each bolt with the air hammer to help break the bond, before trying to loosen them And loosen them with an air impact.

PS: On that Integra I got the suspension parts off of it was the Passenger side bushing that was “seized /rusted” up… (LHD)… Wish they had coated the bolts with a little Anti-Seize…

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IggDawg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well I guess junkyards consider it the "front crossmember." .

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Wouldn't that be the Rear Crossmember?