I don't drive a lot anymore. How many months should I wait between oil changes?

 

I think the suggested time interval is something like twice a year.
The reason being to prevent water condensation within the motor and into the oil.

Shouldn't be a big deal it you do let the car warm up and reach operating temp every couple months (at worst).

Ive got a parts car (1st gen RS teg) that I haven't started in years ... that I'm beginning to worry a bit about.

 

You want to keep the time short inbetween the oil changes due to moisture build up. So like most of the oil Co.s say 3 month 3000 miles.

I bet if your car is in a stable enviorment like a indoor garage where the temps don't change too much you should be able to strech that a whole bunch.

 

3-5 months depending on how picky you are. How often do you crank the car up?

 

Just recently, in 2 months and only 1000 miles, I changed my oil just to find it absolutely filthy. How can oil get that dirty with so few miles on it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cyborg Ninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just recently, in 2 months and only 1000 miles, I changed my oil just to find it absolutely filthy. How can oil get that dirty with so few miles on it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Mobil 1?
Does that all the time!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cyborg Ninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just recently, in 2 months and only 1000 miles, I changed my oil just to find it absolutely filthy. How can oil get that dirty with so few miles on it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends how you drive how often you change your oil.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zygspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Mobil 1?
Does that all the time!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ed, I also notice that Mobil 1 synthetic seems to turn "dark" even after little mileage and easy driving. Seems like Castrol Syntec stays "cleaner" longer.. I will find out...

 

BUT... I have also noticed that the inside of my valve cover is way cleaner then my friend who does not use M1 oil, So maybe the cleaning properites of M1 is actually taking the dirt off the motor and keeping it with in the oil???

 

Im running my car quite a bit lately. Its too cold to change the oil now. I need a warm day.

The oil is from 1999, and has about 800 miles on it.

 

"Im running my car quite a bit lately. Its too cold to change the oil now. I need a warm day.
The oil is from 1999, and has about 800 miles on it. "


That can't possibly be any good for a motor- no matter what kind of storage condition apply.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im running my car quite a bit lately. Its too cold to change the oil now. I need a warm day.

The oil is from 1999, and has about 800 miles on it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

My car came with a really neat book, titled "2001 Acura Integra Owner's Manual". I hear it was written by the people who designed the car.

They say that if you mainly drive in any of the following "severe conditions", or if you drive in Canada (I guess that qualifies as severe too ):

- Driving less than 5 miles per trip or, below freezing, 10 miles per trip
- Driving in extremely hot (over 90 degrees F) temperatures
- Extensive idling or long periods of stop-and-go driving
- Trailer towing, driving with a roof rack, or driving in mountainous conditions
- Driving on muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads

then you should change the oil every 3750 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first.

Otherwise, it says you should change it every 7500 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first.

They don't mention track driving (probably so they don't appear to be endorsing it) but one would think that that, too, would qualify as severe conditions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im running my car quite a bit lately. Its too cold to change the oil now. I need a warm day.

The oil is from 1999, and has about 800 miles on it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You haven't had a warm day in four years?

Where do you live, the South Pole (proposed site for ITR Expo 5)?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00MRSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ed, I also notice that Mobil 1 synthetic seems to turn "dark" even after little mileage and easy driving. Seems like Castrol Syntec stays "cleaner" longer.. I will find out... </TD></TR></TABLE>

So we judge by color now? Castrol Syntec isn't even a synthetic. So if you want to put that garbage in there and base it on color, go for it, it isn't my engine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr 00 0108 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So we judge by color now? Castrol Syntec isn't even a synthetic. So if you want to put that garbage in there and base it on color, go for it, it isn't my engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The Great Mr. Sp00nie once said "Do not use high-end oils for the ITR motor, conventional oil makes the engine run better"
I'm off to buy some Amzoil y0

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nEoMuGen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The Great Mr. Sp00nie once said "Do not use high-end oils for the ITR motor, conventional oil makes the engine run better"
I'm off to buy some Amzoil y0


</TD></TR></TABLE>

get me a link to an article where he says that.

I was quite suprised to see in my 98 gsr helms manual as well about the servere and normal conditions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kendogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

get me a link to an article where he says that.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Best Motoring International, Vol 1, Legends of Type-R.
Nonetheless, I still use good oil....I was on Redline for a couple years...$$$$$$$

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr 00 0108 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So we judge by color now? Castrol Syntec isn't even a synthetic. So if you want to put that garbage in there and base it on color, go for it, it isn't my engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you're saying Castrol Syntec is junk? Can you provide some info to back that up?

 

I thought the car came with Castrol from the factory? BTW about 6 months is a good time..... Or you can wait as long as you want and do a oil flush...

 

I would at least change it twice a year if it's going to be a non-driver. A $15 oil change won't hurt your pockets

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00MRSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So you're saying Castrol Syntec is junk? Can you provide some info to back that up? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sure, Castrol Syntec is a Group 3 oil...It is NOT a true synthetic. Do some research and see how they got away with marketing it as a synthetic. Mobil 1 sued them over it. I've seen Castrol dino oil perform and test better than their "synthetic." Basically you are paying synthetic prices for a dino oil. GREAT COMPANY!

Amsoil - Group 5
Redline - Group 5
Mobil 1 - Group 4

Castrol Syntec - Group 3

The proof is in the pudding.

Do some research....www.bobistheoilguy.com is a great site to start at. But like I said, Castrol Syntec is gaaaaarbage, and it will never touch my engine. Amsoil for my b18c5.

I find it funny how people judge by the color of the oil. They know nothing about oils and are just talking out of their ***. But whatever floats your boat.

 

mobil one only appears to be filthy. it does not have what are known as oil detergents, which keep the oil looking clean or cleaner. It lacks this b.c of all its other componets whcih help keep its viscocity up. Lacking detergents does not affect the performance of the oil what so ever.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00MRSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So you're saying Castrol Syntec is junk? Can you provide some info to back that up? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Spend 10 minutes searching here ( http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php ) and you'll find out the only Castrol Syntec worth using is the German made 0w30.

Chris, since you only stick to street driving, I would stay with a good conventional oil (Chevron Supreme, Pennzoil or Havoline). Again, the oildrop forum specifically the UOA section is very valuable.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrewCityR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Spend 10 minutes searching here ( http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php ) and you'll find out the only Castrol Syntec worth using is the German made 0w30.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what i use. and the color is green! good ****, thicker than mobil 1 when cold and thicker than mobil 1 at operating temperature, but lower pour point than any 30wt. mobil 1. ive used this oil at willow springs and during a very hot desert drive to las vegas in the middle of the summer w/o any problems. my used oil analysis showed that this motor oil barely thinned at all after 5200 miles of use. oh yeah it probably uses a majority group V base b/c of it super low pour point.