Do anyone knows exact what parts do I need to order from junk yard for this conversion?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brian2903 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do anyone knows exact what parts do I need to order from junk yard for this conversion?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here's a pic of what i picked up last week all for $130!!! Got a hooked up. I'm going to do the conversion today around 3pm with a couple buddies from H-T. Basically you need the rear trailing arms, and whatever is attached to it. Like ebrake cables, soft lines, caliper and rotor etc... I'll take pics and try my best to make up a tutorial

 

you really don't need the whole rear suspension. all you really need is just the EX rear knuckles for the conversion. all the other parts are the same (trailing arm and upper arm). you will also need the EX e-brake cables. the soft lines that go from the chassis hard line to the trailing arm are the same. on the discs, there are more soft lines that connect to the caliper so you will need those as well.

here is a pic of a comparison taken when i did my swap. i paid $240 for everything from a local junkyard.


i have successfully done this swap on my 92 accord. it took me 8hrs since i was by myself. some that have done this swap replace their master cylinder to an EX, which has a bigger bore. i don't see this as necessary so i didn't do it. some also replace their proportioning valve to one found in a non-ABS 90-93 integra. i will do this as soon as i find one. so far it feels a lot better than the drums. there is more of a positive feel. please shoot anymore questions my way.

 

Yea it wasnt necessary but hey i got everything for $130 and I didn't even have to take it off the car . Why not. Plus i have a rear ex sway to sell Oh yea about the proportioning valve, I've heard that its not neccessary for it. I remember seeing your post on cb7tuner and you said it brakes fine without it right? Any problems without the proportioning valve that you've seen? I'm planning to keep the same master cylinder and not using the proportioning valve. I grabbed some SS lines for an EX and upgrading the brake fluid to DOT 5.1 and replacing the rotors and pads for the rear.

 

I've heard about problems, if you dont get a proportioning valve or change the master cylinder, and that it wont brake right.

But I dont see any problems with it. I bought a proportioning valve and everything too, but after driving on it, i see no problems. I've broke hard done the whole nine yards, and the car brakes like normal from what ive seen. So really, I dont see the master cylinder or proportioning valve as necessary. Save your money, I wasted money on a proportioning valve thats just sitting in my closet.

 

Stupid question....But where is the proportioning valve located on a 91 accord?? And can you by after market one that is adjustable one.

 

so, do anyone knows how to install the brake?

 

The hardlines from the master cylinder will lead into the proportioning valve. It should be directly beneath the master cylinder.

Yes there are aftermarket proportioning valves, that's the one I have sitting in my closet.

 

I wanna do a rear disc brake conversion to my 96 lx accord too, imma get the parts off of a 94-97 EX accord, was wondering if anybody got the HOW-TO info or if anybody was willing to make a how to, i'm trying to save some money and just do it myself. Thanx in advance guys.

 

Yes, I'm also looking for this info

 

threre really isnt much of a how to needed.
youo should know how to service your own brakes before doing this since if done incorrectly you will have brake failure and your car will not be driveable.
basically you unbolt the bolts that hold the knuckle to the suspension, bolt the new parts on and swap over the hydraulics and cables.
check your manual for torque specs. bleed and go.

 

True that, its a fairly simple, straightforward process. Just unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the knuckle and upper control arm and swap it out. The parking brake cables might give you a little trouble, because of all the plastic covers and all. But anyone with some mechanical knowledge should be able to figure it out without any instructions.

 

so what tools would i need to do the job? i mean other than a rachet/socket set....?

 

besides the rachet/socket set, i used an electric impact gun to remove the suspension bolts from the chassis. it might be hard to remove on certain cars due to dirt buildup and aging. this made the job go by faster. time is money. other than that, simple tools will do it. also i used a helper jack to hold the suspension in place while i bolted it back on the car. and also i suggest to use a 10mm flare-nut wrench to remove the brake-line fittings. this tool prevents the fitting from being easily stripped compared to a normal wrench where slippage, which leads to stripping, may occur. it's a good tool to have. overall it's a bolt-on affair.

 

thanx

what about the rear brake lines? is it a disconnect the drum ones and attach the disc ones? or do i have to re-route or anything?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Accord_Kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> thanx

what about the rear brake lines? is it a disconnect the drum ones and attach the disc ones? or do i have to re-route or anything?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope the EX soft lines are a bit different than the LX sof lines for the drums. If i remember correctly, the softline from the chassis to the trailing arms are the same for LX and EX but when it hits the second hard line behind the splash shield, you will need the EX softlines. I recommend just using all of the EX softlines. I replaced my softlines with SS lines anyways. Usually the rear disk brake conversion comes with EX softlines on it.

Update on my conversion : Finally got the conversion in after hours and hours. The only it took so long was because i replaced by rotors and and pads and had no compressor and impact wrench. Did everything by hand! The screws on the rotors were so rusted and covered with dirt, it was hard to take off. You guys NEED a impact screwdriver, if you don't have any power tools around like i did. You basically hit the screwdriver from the top and the screwdriver then turns the screw without striping it. Everything else is just tedious work. Unbolting heat shields to have room to remove e brake lines, putting back the disk brake conversion and bolting up the LCA's and strut bolt. You also need a 10mm flared nut wrench for the hardlines. Have sockets and wrenches sizes 10-17 handy. Any questions of inquiries just PM me.

I'll get a couple pics up soon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spankey167 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Nope the EX soft lines are a bit different than the LX sof lines for the drums. If i remember correctly, the softline from the chassis to the trailing arms are the same for LX and EX but when it hits the second hard line behind the splash shield, you will need the EX softlines. I recommend just using all of the EX softlines. I replaced my softlines with SS lines anyways. Usually the rear disk brake conversion comes with EX softlines on it.

Update on my conversion : Finally got the conversion in after hours and hours. The only it took so long was because i replaced by rotors and and pads and had no compressor and impact wrench. Did everything by hand! The screws on the rotors were so rusted and covered with dirt, it was hard to take off. You guys NEED a impact screwdriver, if you don't have any power tools around like i did. You basically hit the screwdriver from the top and the screwdriver then turns the screw without striping it. Everything else is just tedious work. Unbolting heat shields to have room to remove e brake lines, putting back the disk brake conversion and bolting up the LCA's and strut bolt. You also need a 10mm flared nut wrench for the hardlines. Have sockets and wrenches sizes 10-17 handy. Any questions of inquiries just PM me.

I'll get a couple pics up soon</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanx bro

 

u need the proportioning valve. theres a reason they have different ones for the LX and EX. the LX will put more braking power to the front discs while the EX will more evenly distribute the power. the LX prop valve on 4 wheel discs will not push enough fluid to the rear discs because the prop valve will restrict it because the drums dont need as much fluid as discs to activate. and you also need the master cylinder to be able to move enough fluid

 

you can't use the EX proportioning valve since EX models come with ABS. the prop valve is inside the ABS unit i believe. to compensate for this problem, many use the prop valve found in 90-93 non-ABS integra. if i'm not mistaken, it should be a bolt-on affair as well. just make sure to use a flare-nut wrench on the fittings. the darn tool does wonders. i currently have the rear disc setup without the prop valve, and it works fine so far. there's always room for improvement though so that's why i'm trying to get one. (sorry if i seem redundant on this topic)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by timmy0tool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can't use the EX proportioning valve since EX models come with ABS. the prop valve is inside the ABS unit i believe. to compensate for this problem, many use the prop valve found in 90-93 non-ABS integra. if i'm not mistaken, it should be a bolt-on affair as well. just make sure to use a flare-nut wrench on the fittings. the darn tool does wonders. i currently have the rear disc setup without the prop valve, and it works fine so far. there's always room for improvement though so that's why i'm trying to get one. (sorry if i seem redundant on this topic)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do those 90-93 integra proportioning valves bolt up to our LX's?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by timmy0tool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can't use the EX proportioning valve since EX models come with ABS. the prop valve is inside the ABS unit i believe. to compensate for this problem, many use the prop valve found in 90-93 non-ABS integra. if i'm not mistaken, it should be a bolt-on affair as well. just make sure to use a flare-nut wrench on the fittings. the darn tool does wonders. i currently have the rear disc setup without the prop valve, and it works fine so far. there's always room for improvement though so that's why i'm trying to get one. (sorry if i seem redundant on this topic)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Other than the prop valve, does the master cylinder from EX to LX even matter? i thought the numbers were the same, 15/16 isn't it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by timmy0tool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can't use the EX proportioning valve since EX models come with ABS. the prop valve is inside the ABS unit i believe. to compensate for this problem, many use the prop valve found in 90-93 non-ABS integra. if i'm not mistaken, it should be a bolt-on affair as well. just make sure to use a flare-nut wrench on the fittings. the darn tool does wonders. i currently have the rear disc setup without the prop valve, and it works fine so far. there's always room for improvement though so that's why i'm trying to get one. (sorry if i seem redundant on this topic)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've heard the civis using the GSR upgraded proportioning valve that is stamped 40/40 on it against the standard civic 2 disk 2 drum setup of 30/30 on the proportioning valve. Can ANYONE with a 91-93 EX or SE look for the stamp on their proportioning valve and see what numbers are stamped? Because i've been searching and couldn't find anything. I reaplced my LX propor. valve with an EX one and my brakes are way more responsive, but i just wanted some reasurance.Thanx

 

the 90-93 integra non-ABS prop valve is stamped 40/40. the LX prop valves are stamped 30/30. the 92-93 EX and SE prop valves are inside the ABS unit so people that do the brake conversion cannot use this valve because of the lack of ABS system. maybe you got a different prop valve because im pretty sure, since you replaced yours, it wasn't from a 92-93 EX or SE. (note that 90-91 EX models are still drum, and ABS-equipped accords have discs)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by timmy0tool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the 90-93 integra non-ABS prop valve is stamped 40/40. the LX prop valves are stamped 30/30. the 92-93 EX and SE prop valves are inside the ABS unit so people that do the brake conversion cannot use this valve because of the lack of ABS system. maybe you got a different prop valve because im pretty sure, since you replaced yours, it wasn't from a 92-93 EX or SE. (note that 90-91 EX models are still drum, and ABS-equipped accords have discs)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Does the 90-93 non abs integra proportioning valve bolt up to a 92 accord though? Because ive heard guys that do rear disk brake conversions with gsr brakes have to customize it to make it bolt on to their car and that it doesnt sit the same way its supposed to. Thats something i don't want to happen. But the proportioning valve i swapped in yesterday is working way better than the previous LX one i was using.

Has anyone purchased or used the Universal proportioning valves? The ones that are adjustable? How do they bolt up etc...?