All tests are made with my home made G-meter on my completelly stock 4G H22.

I tested: stock intake with old and new filer and short-ram intake with conical filter. The lower resonator was not removed, it was there even with the short-ram.

The short-ram is simply K&N filter connected to the stock intake pipe. It looks like this:


All runs were on 1 road in 1 direction on 2nd gear. All results are on the wheels.

I drove every filter 7 times and averaged, so 21 runs were made total.

After each filter change, I reset the ECU and let it idle for 5 minutes to recalibrate. I don't know if this is needed, but I rather made it.

Graphs:





It looks that the original intake is more better than the short-ram one. The old (dirty) filter is the same as the new one (the differences are probably errors/wind).


Modified by petrv at 7:20 PM 11/17/2003

 

I would expect this. The stock is a cold air intake, getting cooler air from the tire well. The short ram gets hot air from under the hood. Now try stock with a drop in K&N with the resinater out (I bet that will be the best). Iceman or AEM cold air intake sysem would also be better, but I bet not by much if any better than stock without resinator and drop in K&N.

 

I'm assuming that is not your car in the pic then?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by laughinxxx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm assuming that is not your car in the pic then?</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is a picture of my previous Prelude. I moved the intake into my new one :-).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 57STS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would expect this. The stock is a cold air intake, getting cooler air from the tire well. The short ram gets hot air from under the hood. Now try stock with a drop in K&N with the resinater out (I bet that will be the best). Iceman or AEM cold air intake sysem would also be better, but I bet not by much if any better than stock without resinator and drop in K&N. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont know. I think when it would be "because of" the hot air, the curve would be lower at all engine speeds, not only at certain areas. It wouldn't give same results in the &gt;5500rpm area. What do you think? It was also pretty cold outside (8C).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont know. I think when it would be "because of" the hot air, the curve would be lower at all engine speeds, not only at certain areas.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is because the conical K&N filter is less restrictive at high RPM's (high air flow), put that same filter down in the tire well and your going to get the best of both worlds like iceman or AEM. Also the resinator makes some funky bends that I'm sure does not help the air flow at high RPM's, so taking that out will also help.

 

I agree about taking out the resonator and giving it a try with the filter down by the tire. I noticed a difference real quick when I put my AEM CAI in.
I heard K&N CAI is better though because the tube is made thicker and it has a thick ceramic coat in the middle that keeps heat out from inside the engine. Rather then what I have seen with some cars where they wrap up the C.A.I. with some type of insulation material to keep heat out...

 

Yeah..so when i bought my iceman cai i of course had to remove the resonator. there was a noticeable low-end power loss with the filter down in the wheel well. (i had that setup for about 2 months) Just two weeks ago i decided to move the filter up (with the resonator out) into the engine bay. I found a very noticeable low end power increase but just a little off the top. Now i'm not really one to trust my butt dyno but this was definitely the best setup i've found this far.

Iceman short-ram w/ k&n filter and the resonator removed. great throttle response and more power, the plastic-type tube it uses does not accept nearly as much heat as normal aluminum piping. only down side is some sound increase. but hey, some people like that kind of ish.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah..so when i bought my iceman cai i of course had to remove the resonator. there was a noticeable low-end power loss with the filter down in the wheel well. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think your crazy. your butt dyno has too much error why would you lose low end without the resonator and a conical filter in the wheel well???

 

Anybody has some other dynos when swapped intakes?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 57STS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think your crazy. your butt dyno has too much error why would you lose low end without the resonator and a conical filter in the wheel well???</TD></TR></TABLE>

i believe that because when i would launch it'd bog before starting to pull like it should. i mean, i highly doubt i could have messed anything up. and yeah losing tq with that setup goes against what i've heard, but not what i actually felt. should i have removed the splash guard or something?? honestly i feel like this short ram/k&n setup beats the hell out of my previous arrangement...