Aight i alway fill up w/ 91 octane and the engine only has 60k miles on it, its an automatic and the idle sux when in DRIVE, i have to give it some gas while holding on the brake just to stop the vibration the engine makes. It's not overheating or anything, just changed the oil w/castrol syntec and put a 10 dollar fuel system treatment and the situation still hasn't cleared up. So what could be the problem. Changing the spark plugs; if so should i get denso iridiums or just get the HONDA OEM plugs. THANKS

 

anyone, it's kind of annoying

 

well regardless i would do a tune up change the cap rotor plugs and wires. but before all of that i would clean your tbody because sometimes they tend to get dirty and make the car idle really low. so like take your air filter and box all that out and clean that little butterfly thing and all around it. that should solve the problem. and just go with some oem plugs no need for some iridiums...

 

If you haven't ever changed the plugs and wires, you should do that. No need to go out for platinum or iridium or whatever, just get OEM type plugs unless you're pushing compression or boost.

As for 91 octane gas, you really don't need it. The only thing higher octane is for is to prevent detonation caused by high cylinder pressures. If you're running a stock engine and the manufacturer doesn't specifically say you need higher octane...you're wasting money.

 

damnit snatchback, beat me to it!

 

I had a similar problem, but not nearly as bad as yours, and I have the same car. What kind of intake are you running? Try cleaning the filter, then clean your throttle body out with Gum-out or something similar. That usually fixed my problem. I was running a cheap intake and switched to AEM and it's been better since then.

 

I have a y7 myself w/72k - havn't changed the plugs nor the wires but have cleaned the TB. This will help allot, also a new air filter. Don't just "clean" the TB though, get someone else to spray cleaner in while you are inside reving back and forth ( it will stall if attempted w/1 ). Then correctly reset the the ecu, my battery went south the other day and just from installing and racing out into traffic made my in gear idle very low and rough.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Resurgent &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Don't just "clean" the TB though, get someone else to spray cleaner in while you are inside reving back and forth ( it will stall if attempted w/1 ).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
what type of cleaner is ok to spray right into the TB? i assume you would do this with the air box off right...just bare TB?

 

what cleaner do you guys recommend?

 

beleive it or not "carb cleaner" should do the trick

 

ok did the plugs(not wires) and cleaned the throttle body w/ gumout. Now it still does it, it is getting worse too, now dropping past 500 into 300-200, i think the car is going to die everytime im at a light, pisses me off and my muffler doesn't like it neither, shakes like a mother F$*%*$#. any other suggestions,

 

anyone, cause my car is cold to the touch right now, should i change out the coolant

 

you use 91 octane on an automatic y7?!?! why???? There is no need for it. Just run 87 and stop wasting money.

 

i know, i know, but the major problem i have is the idleing, someone help, it starts to drop like hella low now

 

well it surges from 500 to less than 400, the spark plugs only helped on throttle response, could it be the colant or radiator

 

yo anyone, its really annoying that i have to give it gas

 

OK, i did the reseting the ECU and it didn't work. Now what else is there to do, i checked the vacum hoses and it isn't leaking. Is there something else i can do to correct it. The IAC, is that a problem to look at or could it be something major. Haven't messed w/timing, or timing belt.


Modified by Mgnlxsd at 4:16 AM 11/27/2003

 

will changing the spark plugs and not the wires be a cause of this, because i hear a slight squealing noise from the distributor cap.

 

Change your IAC less than three bucks at autozone.

 

Ok, see if this will help solve the problem. I start the car COLD start and it goes directly to 2k rpms and then drops gradually to 1k and then to 500rpm and below once it's warmed up. Now when i turn the steering wheel, when at a stop, the idle jumps back to it's normal 700+/- and then when i stop the idle goes down to 500 rpm and below. If this is normal then i guess it's a stupid question, but if it isn't then it's just another fact of why my idle is all messed up. This is an Automatic D16y7 and it needs H-T's help.

 

did u do a CEL check? sometimes u will throw a code and not even know it. my car did that with my idel. and i didnt have a CEL and i did a search and it was my TPS and i changed it and now the car is running fine

 

Try adjusting the idle screw on the throttle body when your car is running warmed up and idling low. Should help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IDriveHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try adjusting the idle screw on the throttle body when your car is running warmed up and idling low. Should help.</TD></TR></TABLE> Do you mean the idle screw on the IAC

 

ok i messed w/ the idle screw and fixed it, i also stripped the IACV valve cover on the y7 it's green and held on by two screws, now i stripped the hell out of one. The head of it looks like a dish now that i used the Craftsman Screw out. Now that thing is impossible to get out now.

So another question, if i want to change to a y8 manifold does it have to be an automatic y8 manifold? Also since i stipped the hell out of my IACV, and probably won't be able to get it off, can i use a EX throttle body and use all the sensors off of it like the MAP,TPS and as for the IACV can i use the one off the y8 manifold and just convert over to a two wire IACV.

 

if you just want to put a Y8 manifold on your y7 head then you can use the y8 auto manifold, but if you plan to eventually go with a vtec head you want to get the 5-speed y8 manifold. The difference is mainly the IACV. On the 5-speed manifold the 2 wire IACV is behind the throttle body on the intake manifold, on the auto manifold there is a blank spot there and there is a 3 wire IACV on the throttle body similar to the stock Y7 throttle body, the only difference is the throttle rotor. If you are interested in this upgrade I have a auto Y8 manifold and throttle body for sale. Let me know.