Sportlines + Progress camber = control arm interference
Hey Honda Heads,
I 've got a 95 Accord Ex with this suspension layout: Eibach Sportlines + Koni Yellows, Energy Bushings throughout, DC strutbars and rapidly wearing Falkens until recently when I installed the bushing and a progress camber kit. I put the camber kit studs on the +1.75 degree setting. When I dropped the car back onto it's wheels the front end sat kinda jacked up and the car had about a half degree of positive camber. So after scratching my head and saying "Sumthin ain't too right here..." I began a visual inspection and discovered that a seam on the unibody sat on top of the control arm causing the front end to remain jacked up slightly. It's a situation reminiscent of the Sport Compact Car Project Silvia.... only their car's seam was interfering with the top of the tire.
Now here is my question, Do I need to grind the end of the control arm off and will that be structurally sound? Or should I shave the end of the control arm, and cut and weld the seam like SCC did?
I've always been amazed that Eibach Sportlines caused so much alignment trouble....though the Koni perchs are set on the lowest setting in the front.
Thanks for any help,
Will
I 've got a 95 Accord Ex with this suspension layout: Eibach Sportlines + Koni Yellows, Energy Bushings throughout, DC strutbars and rapidly wearing Falkens until recently when I installed the bushing and a progress camber kit. I put the camber kit studs on the +1.75 degree setting. When I dropped the car back onto it's wheels the front end sat kinda jacked up and the car had about a half degree of positive camber. So after scratching my head and saying "Sumthin ain't too right here..." I began a visual inspection and discovered that a seam on the unibody sat on top of the control arm causing the front end to remain jacked up slightly. It's a situation reminiscent of the Sport Compact Car Project Silvia.... only their car's seam was interfering with the top of the tire.
Now here is my question, Do I need to grind the end of the control arm off and will that be structurally sound? Or should I shave the end of the control arm, and cut and weld the seam like SCC did?
I've always been amazed that Eibach Sportlines caused so much alignment trouble....though the Koni perchs are set on the lowest setting in the front.
Thanks for any help,
Will
i have the sportlines and the only problem i have with them is they rub in my inner fender wells when i brake hard or go over bumpes. I have ignalls camber kits and AGX shocks. But im not sure what your ca ris doing? is the UCA actually hitting the metal or grazing it. When you first set a car back down on the ground they usually dont sit right until the springs re settle. So drive it for awhile and see what happens. if not your suspension is bent.
that happen to me too when i install my camber kit.....basicly when ur car is slammed.....once you put the camber kit on, the control arm hit the fender..
i use the dye grinder and shave off some metal of the control arm......and sum from the fender wall.....
it good now......
i use the dye grinder and shave off some metal of the control arm......and sum from the fender wall.....
it good now......
That is the most annoying thing about an accord. Lowering it and trying to have perfect camber without any clearance issues or banging. Yes that is your control arm hitting. Depending on how much you want your correction to be set at, you can get away with just griding down that lip that is in the way and if that still doesnt work you can grind away a lil on the edge of the control arm, that wont hurt anything. Me being **** about buying tires for 130$ a piece, i want perfect camber and a perfect alignment. I have the neuspeed somethings. The ones that are the lowest drop. It like 1.9 and 2.0 Anyway, i actually cut from inside of the engine bay. U can actually see the outline of where their was a rectangular patch that looks like it was welded in. Well I just cut all my **** out. Now I have a huge whole there on both sides, but on the bright side, my control arm on hard bumps comes all the way through the hole and clears with no prob. Thats what you could do if your **** like me about perfect alignment.
damn i need perfect camber on my 97 accord too.....****......but im too afraid to cut any more metal off my control arm......
it can get weak and snap off when i hit a big hoe.....heheeh
but it is getting there, i try to adjust more when i have time..
here how it look now......
it can get weak and snap off when i hit a big hoe.....heheeh
but it is getting there, i try to adjust more when i have time..
here how it look now......
1) hammer the inside fender wall
2) grind control arm
3) have a little negative camber (less than 0.5 degrees)
this should fix the problem. i have no probs now with my arm hitting.
2) grind control arm
3) have a little negative camber (less than 0.5 degrees)
this should fix the problem. i have no probs now with my arm hitting.
factory camber tolerances specify plus or minus 1 degree of camber.
i have been running with right abotu 1.25 degrees of correction on my accord for several years putting me ata -1 camber on the alignment rack, and have had acceptable tire wear...since most tire wear on the inner edge is NOT camber wear but TOE wear. my conrtol arms did hit a little at firist but i let them lpound out a groove and its been all goo sicne then. i am on neuspeed race springs, koni sport shocks (2nd lowest perch) and ingalls camber kits.
i have been running with right abotu 1.25 degrees of correction on my accord for several years putting me ata -1 camber on the alignment rack, and have had acceptable tire wear...since most tire wear on the inner edge is NOT camber wear but TOE wear. my conrtol arms did hit a little at firist but i let them lpound out a groove and its been all goo sicne then. i am on neuspeed race springs, koni sport shocks (2nd lowest perch) and ingalls camber kits.
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idreamHonda
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Apr 16, 2005 01:44 PM





