just finished a b16 into crx swap and it starts but not even long enough for me to give it gas. i havent even heard this before. any ideas as to what i messed up. its completely rebuilt, with ctr cams, pistons, and some other bolt ons, new dizzy, 310cc injectors that i got from someone on here but dont look like they fit right, and sir2 block with sir1 head, ys1 lsd tranny. please help


Modified by kanzenr91si at 7:13 AM 11/21/2003

 

bump before i goto work

 

just found out my oil is disappearing. when i started it was full, then dipped down to the minimum dot, so i added more. tried starting it again, and now its back down. wtf. someone please help

 

no codes? what ecu? did the car sit for any amount of time? did you add new oil and oil filture prior to the first crank? can you try and explain the noise a little more in detail... do you have a set of stock injectors that you can throw in there... lets go from there

 

ok i think i figured it out. i believe its my iacv. i used my odb0 b16 on the new skunk2 im and i dont think it lines up right. anyone know what iacv does? just type r? i guess im junkyard shoppin tommorow unless someone on h-t has one.

 

The 2 IACV valves should be the same form both b16's obdo and obd1 i will check and post some pics just to make sure later...

Basically the IACV (idel air control valve) regulates air flow when the throttle plate is closed. It also adjust for things such as the ac and ps.

What i would try to do is pull the canister or some other vacumm line and see if the car tries to stay idel.

type r? you do not need an idel air control valve from a type r... if that was what you were implying

if you get a chance answer a few more of those questions i posted and give me more of a rundown on your motor...

 

maybe your right about the iacv but im tryin to get a friend to come over and test his. as far as the rundown, chipped pr3, no cel, the motor sat for at least a year, the car about 2 months, new oil, filter, im workin on findin the stock injectors, the noise is kinda rough but it doesnt last long at all. im startin to think it might not even be fully starting. you dont think a bad iacv could cause this? since the skunk2 was designed for obd1 and up and they have different iacv mount points i figured this was a problem.

 

i dont think it is going to be the IACV the car would crank even if the IACV was not pluged in as long as you gave it some gas...

speaking of gas i think that you might need to drain the tank and get some fresh gas... as well get those stock injectors in there.... are you sure that you have the right injectors peak and hold? or saturated?

 

the car cranks, and fires up just dies RIGHT AWAY.

im gettin ready to swap injectors though.

you think it could be the ecu chip?

 

How is it coming?

 

I used a B17a IACV on my CTR i/m. Also have you checked your timing?

 

injectors are on their way and probably get put in tonight

how do i check the timing if i cant keep it running?

thanks for the replies

 

you can make sure that it has not jumped a tooth... line the crank pulley up with the first mark on the pulley not the 3 marks but the white one before those..... and see where your cams are pointed... that will tell you if you are of with your cam timming


Modified by 6spdEG at 4:50 PM 11/17/2003

 

310cc Injector's are to much for that setup, maybe your flooding out. I think the stock injectors will help you out. Not sure what all might be the trouble but good luck.

 

any updates

 

swapped injectors and same thing. noticed its throwing a code 15. whats that? im goin to search after i post.

 

code 15=Ignition Output Signal
missing or defective ignition output signal

check your wiring, also try swapping dizzy's with another one
what kind of fuel pressure are you running?

 

i just bought a brand new dizzy froim distributor king

fuel pressure is 40 cuz i got an aem fpr and havent been able to adjust it.
also that reminds me when i took it off the fpr and the fuel return hose was completly dry. there was fuel in the rail but none in the regulator or hose leading to firewall. is that normal?

 

also do you know if a crx si ignitor would fit in the non obd b16 dizzy?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kanzenr91si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also do you know if a crx si ignitor would fit in the non obd b16 dizzy?</TD></TR></TABLE>.. nope.. but i think a LS will

 

i found a post saying the crx si ignitor would fit. anyone else confirm yes or no?

also how do you test wires at the ecu without a test harness? possible?

 

ok replaced ignitor now it stays started a little longer but not much. also now the ecu bleeps 20 times. is this code 20? i thought ten was one long bleep? thats how it was when it was a code 15. wtf. im gettin pissed.

 

i would try and replace the whole dist.

is it 20 short beeps? any long beeps?

i had this happen to my hatch back when i had a b16 swap tried everythign swapping out internals and stuff.... go with the new one and check make sure your timming belt is not off a tooth or so...

good luck

 

as sayd abovem try swapping the whole dizzy, you might have a defective one..
also 20 short blinks??20 should be 2 long blinks. it goes by 10's firt(long blinks) and then by ones(short).

 

i bought a brand new dizzy from distributor king. it should be fine, but i guess ill see if theyll send me another one.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also 20 short blinks??20 should be 2 long blinks. it goes by 10's firt(long blinks) and then by ones(short).

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah thats what i thought. thats also how it was when i had a code 15, 1 long, 5 quick. but now it just blinks 20 times. no pauses until after 20. i also dont get why its throwin a code 20 now when it didnt before, when it was throwin 15.

could my ecu be bad?