b20vtec project almost finished!!
Break down:
96 civic dx coupe
99 b20 block
00 civic si head, 5 angle valve job, titanium valve springs and ferrea valves
civic si clutch
98 gsr lsd tranny
Integra Type R upgraded distributor
Greddy header
Si B pipe
Hp motorsports axle back
cough cough nitrous.....




Modified by jayden at 11:46 PM 11/17/2003
Modified by jayden at 11:47 PM 11/17/2003
Modified by jayden at 11:48 PM 11/17/2003
Modified by jayden at 11:50 PM 11/17/2003
Modified by jayden at 11:51 PM 11/17/2003
Modified by jayden at 12:25 AM 11/18/2003
Modified by jayden at 12:40 AM 11/18/2003
96 civic dx coupe
99 b20 block
00 civic si head, 5 angle valve job, titanium valve springs and ferrea valves
civic si clutch
98 gsr lsd tranny
Integra Type R upgraded distributor
Greddy header
Si B pipe
Hp motorsports axle back
cough cough nitrous.....




Modified by jayden at 11:46 PM 11/17/2003
Modified by jayden at 11:47 PM 11/17/2003
Modified by jayden at 11:48 PM 11/17/2003
Modified by jayden at 11:50 PM 11/17/2003
Modified by jayden at 11:51 PM 11/17/2003
Modified by jayden at 12:25 AM 11/18/2003
Modified by jayden at 12:40 AM 11/18/2003
Sounds like a good setup, but
or a dyno. What size shot do you plan on running?
Been wanting to use that.
Modified by 96coupe at 11:00 PM 11/11/2003
or a dyno. What size shot do you plan on running?
Been wanting to use that.
Modified by 96coupe at 11:00 PM 11/11/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like a good setup, but
or a dyno.
Been wanting to use that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
very true, ill snap some after skewl tommorrow
or a dyno.
Been wanting to use that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
very true, ill snap some after skewl tommorrow
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WiDeBoDyEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with that setup,..that OEM SI clutch you just got is not gonna last long </TD></TR></TABLE>
We have a OEM SI clutch in my girlfriends 99 SI (its stock) and it can BARLY hold that. If you shift hard it slips really bad. Ive already gotten a new clutch for it im just waiting until its totally dead to replace it.
Dont waste your time on the OEM clutch..its aweful. If you wanted to keep it OEM you should have gotten a teg typeR clutch - its the same price.
liam
We have a OEM SI clutch in my girlfriends 99 SI (its stock) and it can BARLY hold that. If you shift hard it slips really bad. Ive already gotten a new clutch for it im just waiting until its totally dead to replace it.
Dont waste your time on the OEM clutch..its aweful. If you wanted to keep it OEM you should have gotten a teg typeR clutch - its the same price.
liam
yes that clutch wont last at all.
i hope you modified the pistons at least by making the valve reliefs
deeper. unless you used aftermarket pistons.
don't expect that bottom end to last without it being balanced and strengthened
with a z10 block girdle and arp rod bolts.
i hope you modified the pistons at least by making the valve reliefs
deeper. unless you used aftermarket pistons.
don't expect that bottom end to last without it being balanced and strengthened
with a z10 block girdle and arp rod bolts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i hope you modified the pistons at least by making the valve reliefs
deeper. unless you used aftermarket pistons.
don't expect that bottom end to last without it being balanced and strengthened
with a z10 block girdle and arp rod bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are these comments relative to the head work that has been done?
i hope you modified the pistons at least by making the valve reliefs
deeper. unless you used aftermarket pistons.
don't expect that bottom end to last without it being balanced and strengthened
with a z10 block girdle and arp rod bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are these comments relative to the head work that has been done?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jayden »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok got a new OEM si clutch today and the rest of my mounts along with b series shift linkage, put the motor together tonight and prepped the car for drop which will happen tommorrow. Still wont run until thursday when I get my distributor.
Break down:
96 civic dx coupe
99 b20 block
00 civic si head, 5 angle valve job, titanium valve springs and ferrea valves
civic si clutch
98 gsr lsd tranny
Integra Type R upgraded distributor
Greddy header
Si B pipe
Hp motorsports axle back
cough cough nitrous.....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you just wasted your money on a STOCK CIVIC SI clutch!!!!!!!!!!1 you are gonna burn that up within 5k miles!!!!
Break down:
96 civic dx coupe
99 b20 block
00 civic si head, 5 angle valve job, titanium valve springs and ferrea valves
civic si clutch
98 gsr lsd tranny
Integra Type R upgraded distributor
Greddy header
Si B pipe
Hp motorsports axle back
cough cough nitrous.....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you just wasted your money on a STOCK CIVIC SI clutch!!!!!!!!!!1 you are gonna burn that up within 5k miles!!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes that clutch wont last at all.
i hope you modified the pistons at least by making the valve reliefs
deeper. unless you used aftermarket pistons.
don't expect that bottom end to last without it being balanced and strengthened
with a z10 block girdle and arp rod bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no you do NOT need to modify the pistons for valve reliefs....i clayed a b20with si head with toda b's at +-5 degrees and nothing touched the pistons!!!!
bottomend will last if you don't rev over 8200.....mine had 38000 miles before i finally spun a bearing....and that was with over 20 race weekends (roadracing) over 300 drag launches.....2 cross country trips....etc....engine will last!
i hope you modified the pistons at least by making the valve reliefs
deeper. unless you used aftermarket pistons.
don't expect that bottom end to last without it being balanced and strengthened
with a z10 block girdle and arp rod bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no you do NOT need to modify the pistons for valve reliefs....i clayed a b20with si head with toda b's at +-5 degrees and nothing touched the pistons!!!!
bottomend will last if you don't rev over 8200.....mine had 38000 miles before i finally spun a bearing....and that was with over 20 race weekends (roadracing) over 300 drag launches.....2 cross country trips....etc....engine will last!
not to jack a thread or anything but I think that it would beneficial to know what all it takes to make the B20 bottom end good and reliable to rev to 9K and be reliable on a daily driven basis with track days and the occasional trip to the strip?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no you do NOT need to modify the pistons for valve reliefs....i clayed a b20with si head with toda b's at +-5 degrees and nothing touched the pistons!!!!
bottomend will last if you don't rev over 8200.....mine had 38000 miles before i finally spun a bearing....and that was with over 20 race weekends (roadracing) over 300 drag launches.....2 cross country trips....etc....engine will last!</TD></TR></TABLE>
glad to hear someone else say it
no you do NOT need to modify the pistons for valve reliefs....i clayed a b20with si head with toda b's at +-5 degrees and nothing touched the pistons!!!!
bottomend will last if you don't rev over 8200.....mine had 38000 miles before i finally spun a bearing....and that was with over 20 race weekends (roadracing) over 300 drag launches.....2 cross country trips....etc....engine will last!</TD></TR></TABLE>
glad to hear someone else say it
motors in, still need the last tranny mount but the motor is in. Im having a friend wire this nightmare up tommorrow so hopefully with everything going right it will run tommorrow. Whats with everybody sayin my motor will die? Two of my friends have b20s with 17000 miles on them and those motors havnt had the easiest lives. I paid 50 bucks for a brand spankin new clutch, ok Im gonna burn it up 5000 miles from now, no big deal. I used my friends digicam which blows major ***, Ill get mine and post some pix up later.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DSeriesBKilla »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That 5 angle valve job was a waste of money. </TD></TR></TABLE>
A.) It was probably only an extra $80.00 and
B.) you're wrong. And unless you have a flowbench, I don't want to hear an arguement. My brother's 12.7:1 CR JDM GSR felt better up top after he got a 3-angle.
A.) It was probably only an extra $80.00 and
B.) you're wrong. And unless you have a flowbench, I don't want to hear an arguement. My brother's 12.7:1 CR JDM GSR felt better up top after he got a 3-angle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000CX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good luck with everything man...i am hoping to do the same come spring. what ecu are you using?</TD></TR></TABLE>
im running a obd1 b16a2 with a skunk2 conversion harness, good luck getting your motor
im running a obd1 b16a2 with a skunk2 conversion harness, good luck getting your motor
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A.) It was probably only an extra $80.00 and
B.) you're wrong. And unless you have a flowbench, I don't want to hear an arguement. My brother's 12.7:1 CR JDM GSR felt better up top after he got a 3-angle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the valve job was free
A.) It was probably only an extra $80.00 and
B.) you're wrong. And unless you have a flowbench, I don't want to hear an arguement. My brother's 12.7:1 CR JDM GSR felt better up top after he got a 3-angle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the valve job was free





