I've done a couple of searches and the best thing i got was a fuzzy diagram of the assembly of the belt. I know the notch on the shaft pulley lines up with the arrow, but on the oil pump gear, the small dot: where does that line up? Thanks for the help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MNY2BRN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've done a couple of searches and the best thing i got was a fuzzy diagram of the assembly of the belt. I know the notch on the shaft pulley lines up with the arrow, but on the oil pump gear, the small dot: where does that line up? Thanks for the help.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, i know its not the oil pump gear, because that is turned by the crank. So depending on if your talking about the main timing belt or the smaller balancing shaft belt would help determine what information you need.

 

sorry bout that, i would be talking about the large gear to the left of the crank pully, i'm used to B series so please bare with me, thanks again

 

if its the gear to the left of the crank,thats one of the counter balance shaft gears,the other bigger one to the right of the crankshaft is the other.With the engine at tdc,the counterbalance shaft belt(the smaller one) goes on with the left gears line pointing directly to the front of the engine,and for the right one,you have to remove a 12mm bolt on the rear of the engine thats right above the intermediate shaft mounting bearing.The right shaft has a small hole in it,maybe a small screw driver or a long 5mm allen wrench might fit in the hole,this is supposed to lock the shaft from moving around,and then you can put the belt on.If you can get a hold of a repair manual for the prelude or even an 91 and up accord,it will show you how to do it.Hope this helps.

 

Yeah, make sure your crank pulley is at TDC using the oil pump housing mark, then line the front balance shaft up with it's TDC mark.

The rear balance shaft is trickier, but you don't have to use that maintenance bolt - it's tough to get to, and is often stuck in there pretty good. If you look closely, there is a little "dimple" dot that does line up with TDC on the rear shaft - there's also another small mark about 120 degress clockwise of the TDC mark that happens to line up with a stray casting on the block.

Just make sure the gear is on the correct rotation . . . i.e. it takes 3 rotations of that gear for the shaft to revolve once - when it's at TDC it will stay there naturally & not try to "fall over".

A search should bring up more information, that's how I figured it out when I did mine.

 

The crank pullry is at tdc, and now I am trying to line up the rear balancer. I see the dimple on the gear, and i believe i found the casting mark, ust not positive. It looks like the casting mark is on the oil pump housing, is that correct? I also removed the 12mm bolt and attempted to make it stop in the same are as teh sand casting, but it moves back and forth too much when i move it by hand. I also noticed a small notch on that belt guide on the back of the gear, does that line up with anything in particular? I guess I'm, confused, does teh dimple need to be at TDC, matching the crank and front balancer, or lined up with that casting? You guys have been a lot of help, thanks again.

 

throw that belt away and dont worry about it

 

Did they teach you that at you EMS tuning session? Seriously, anyone else have any input before I order a manuel?

 

He was being serious.

 

Well its not my motor, so why is it safe to remove it completely? I thought everything would go fucko bazoo if I removed it.

 

I guess the jury is still out for definate answer, but I do personally know a couple of people that haven't used thiers for awhile and say they have yet experienced no negative side effects. But...it's kinda like the aftermarket underdrive pulley debate, no one knows 100% for absolute sure. One of these days someone who has been running without for a good amount of time like above the 20K miles ranges, needs to tear apart thier block and tell the world how thier bearings look.

 

i ran my jdm h22 for about 20k miles with no balancers, when i took it apart, the berings and everything looked fine.

i ran my f22 for 25k miles and its fine, the radaitor cracked and i warped the head. the belt is coming off my f20b before it goes in the car

those are there for comfort and us fat americans, get rid of em, they are a good 10-15hp

my otherwise stock 92 prelude s ran 15.6, all it had was a removed resonator and removed balancer shafts

 

That dimple lines up at about a 4 o'clock position.

What you are looking for is a v notch cut in the lip of the back side of the gear that will line up with that mark on the casting. Hard to see if you didnt remove the drivers side motor mount and let the motor sag a bit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4bidden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That dimple lines up at about a 4 o'clock position.

What you are looking for is a v notch cut in the lip of the back side of the gear that will line up with that mark on the casting.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe it's the other way around - dimple at the top, notch @ 4o'clock. I suppose I could be mistaken, though. fuzzy memories . . . .

 

If I lined up the dimple at TDC, teh notch would be at 7-8 o clock position, so I'm thinkin the notch at TDC, dimple at 4 o clock. I'm gonna assemble it this afternoon, so if you guys have any last minute tips, taht would be great, and thanks again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i ran my jdm h22 for about 20k miles with no balancers, when i took it apart, the berings and everything looked fine.

i ran my f22 for 25k miles and its fine, the radaitor cracked and i warped the head. the belt is coming off my f20b before it goes in the car

those are there for comfort and us fat americans, get rid of em, they are a good 10-15hp

my otherwise stock 92 prelude s ran 15.6, all it had was a removed resonator and removed balancer shafts</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly, all they're doing is counteracting reciprocating forces. up/down.
No bad side effects disabling them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daemione &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, make sure your crank pulley is at TDC using the oil pump housing mark, then line the front balance shaft up with it's TDC mark.

The rear balance shaft is trickier, but you don't have to use that maintenance bolt - it's tough to get to, and is often stuck in there pretty good. If you look closely, there is a little "dimple" dot that does line up with TDC on the rear shaft - there's also another small mark about 120 degress clockwise of the TDC mark that happens to line up with a stray casting on the block.

Just make sure the gear is on the correct rotation . . . i.e. it takes 3 rotations of that gear for the shaft to revolve once - when it's at TDC it will stay there naturally & not try to "fall over".

A search should bring up more information, that's how I figured it out when I did mine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how do you know if it is in the correct rotation. Assume i just spun the gear by accident and lost track of what rotation it was on. How do i get it back to the correct rotation. What would happen if i installed it with 1 rotation off? thanks