I was wondering what d16 engine would be better to turbo. anyone know which one is better and why?

 

I'd say stick to at least a 1.6 because the D15 rods are pencil thick and I'd not feel safe boosting on them.

How much money are you going to invest in this project?

Are you going to build the engine first, or what?

What kit, engine management, etc?

If this gets more turbo-related in terms of what trim you're looking for, etc. then I think the Forced Induction forum might be better suited for your question.

 

he didn't even metion a d15, he's talking about the d16's, which are all 1.6's! thats what the 16 in d16 means!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95cxhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he didn't even metion a d15, he's talking about the d16's, which are all 1.6's! thats what the 16 in d16 means!</TD></TR></TABLE>

bwaahaha.... good thing you cleared that up to tom. i'm sure he learned someting new

what about a y5 with it's roller rocker cam giving more lift than z6 y7 and y8?

 

what do you have now?

 

id say depends on what year car ur throwing it in

92-95 i say the z6 with the y8 intake manifold, better flowing head than y8,lower compression and better intake manifold

96-00 id day y8 with z6 head, y8 intake manifold, it will lower your compression and you got a good manifold already so stick with that

the y7 doesnt have vtec, so less power, however u can throw a y8 or a z6 head on

 

personally id keep it between the z6 and y8, then from there it is all about which motor you can get with less mileage and in better shape, but if you plan on buying the motor and building it, i would go with either the y8 or z6 bottom, the z6 head if your obd1 and the y8 intake manifold, the only problems with the z6 head is the dist and how only obd1 vtec dizzys fit on it

 

a friend of mine has a y8 turbo and im please with it. IMO the y8 is the best...its newer most likely less miles...the y7 is *** i have it and i cant stand the ****** thing. i would go with a y8

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shepworldwide &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

bwaahaha.... good thing you cleared that up to tom. i'm sure he learned someting new

what about a y5 with it's roller rocker cam giving more lift than z6 y7 and y8?</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats just strait up funny. poor guy has no idea what he just did lol

 

I'd vote for the Z6. Its OBD1 ,has a lower CR then a Y8, and probably less expencive.Honestly I know nothing about the Y7 so I can't comment about it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95cxhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he didn't even metion a d15, he's talking about the d16's, which are all 1.6's! thats what the 16 in d16 means!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh cool thanks for telling me. I had no idea the 16 meant 1.6L.



Perhaps I did not read the topic carefully enough. I like how you simply keyed on my first line of my post. Hope you feel better since you flexed your superior knowledge against me my friend!

By the way, other than you flame, what did you post in attempts to tryign to actuyally help the tooic at hand?

 

So i should do a y8 block with z6 head and y8 intake manifold? that should lower the compression right? and if i wanted to build the block, what would i need to do to it?

 

id say any of thoe are good pic the one that has the most hp stock cause then adding to it will give you high end outputs, all the cr are ok for boost on a sohc and geting low cr sometimes will hurt you unless you actually need it for big boost application, just for a lil reference my friend in an HX with the HX motor stock with a homemade turbo kit was able to get a 13.7, bret is a bad *** driver though,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Oh Sohc Slow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cheaper/more beneficial to do a B series swap.
[and safer too]</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok buddy!
i'm sure theres a many who would dis-agree with you on that 1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Oh Sohc Slow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cheaper/more beneficial to do a B series swap.
[and safer too]</TD></TR></TABLE>

Says Mr. 10-posts .

The D-Series engine is a wonderful machine, and don't let anybody tell you otherwise.

 

let's add a y5 into this though topic though.
I have *heard* and seen dyno tests prove that a y5 will make more power with the standard i/h/e etc. than any other D-series engine would. (i.e. a y5 would make 7 hp and the y8 would make 5 hp with the same intake) y5's do have roller rockers, but that just allows for a steeper cam profile for aftermarket camshafts.

Does anyone think a y5 would be better to turbo than a y8 since y5's can make more power N/A? (theoretically) Is it possible to start a poll in this thread since it's already created?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Oh Sohc Slow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cheaper/more beneficial to do a B series swap.
[and safer too]</TD></TR></TABLE>

negative. A custom built turbo D is MUCH cheaper than a B series swap.

 

i turbo'ed my y8 and love every second of it. i think i make pretty decent power for the amount of boost im running. me myself if i had to choose i would pick between the y8 and z6. i am also pretty sure you might be able to push out a lil more power with the z6. you can benifit from the lower CR. Just plan the project and stick with a good budget and you can make a beast out of either of the motors.

my .02

 

your hp/tq is very good for the amount of boost. what's you secret? my goal is 200whp with a custom turbo on my y5. pm me so we don't thread jack.

 

Alright... so my plan is to get a d16z6 with a y8 intake manifold. BUT now, which turbo is cheap and reliable to get? tell me what turbos you guys are running on your d-series

 

im thinking of getting an IHI ballbearing turbo. full boost at 2600 rpm, good to around 250whp, and won't run out of breath either. its the area under the curve that really matters - peak #s are just to boost your ego.

 

check my sig for my last turbo project. im currently building a z6 to swap in my 92 sedan. if your car is a 96+ use the y8 head and block. just easyer to get the dizzy in.

use the z6 for 92-95

also don't drop your compression. idealy u want it around 9:5:1 the y8 is already their and the z6 is 9:2:1 im actually bumping the compression up in my z6.

eagle rods
Je pistons (9:5:1)
new bearings, thrusts, and gasket set.
copper head gasket.
new valves, springs, and retainers, and new cam, with adjustable camgear.

ill be running 12-18psi daily on this setup.

for turbo how much money do u have? the car and turbo in my sig both cost under a total of $2000.

or u can spend like 3000 on just the kit. if your not going to rebuild the engine for boost just peice your own budget kit together. cheaper, and if u break your motor u can rebuild another with the money u saved.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also don't drop your compression. idealy u want it around 9:5:1 the y8 is already their and the z6 is 9:2:1 im actually bumping the compression up in my z6.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was going to say the same thing. you hear a lot of talk about lowering CR in boost builds when it comes to Hondas, but that's usually on the B series engines which are at levels of over 10:1 in most cases.

A lot of people lower Cr to 9.5:1 or 9:1, so as bmcc72 stated the D16Z6 and D16Y8 are already good as far as CR goes.

I think I'd get some stock replace,ment forged pistons so tnat you get the stregth of the forged pistons without sacrificing CR. Usually the lower your Cr the more boost you have to run to make as much power, and that can mean more lag in some cases depending on what turbo you're running.

We'll see how many boosted D owners chime in this topic, but I still think posting a topic in the forced induction forum is a good idea too. There's a lot of smart guys in there when it comes to turbo choices, etc.

 

I'm thinking about turboing a y5 shortly. I have a couple questions and this seems like a good place to ask them.

What is the difference in the rockers on a y5 and y8? I keep hearing about these roller rockers and they sound cool, and I'm just so proud to have them, but I have no clue what they are

Also, what it the lean burn thing? Do you just change the ECU to get rid of it?

I know there was a huge d-series thread that answered a ton of my questions, but I can't find it now.

 

the car in my sig was running 0-60 in 7sec and 0-90 in 15sec. so if u don't do any engine mods and go with a cheap turbo kit, good clutch and an ex tranny u can run 14s no problem. it really matters how deap your pocket and your speed addiction goes. also on a Bseries block i like 9:8:1 or 10:0:1 but thats me. everyone says drop the comp and raise your boost. well i say keep the comp and stay moderate boost. when i drive my car im at like 160hp at 2.5k rpms becuase my turbo is hitting 7psi at2.5k if i droped my comp it would be 3-4k before id see 7psi. when i raise the comp up on my z6 ill be hitting 7psi even faster. who needs more displacement when your turbo spools at 2.5k and runs out to 7k