I pulled a best time of 15.5 out of 2 runs.

I had a low 60 ft time of 2.2, and the car only trapped at 85 MPH.

Trap speed is directly related to the HP the car is making, and my car is just simply not making the HP it should.


But I know what the problem is, or at least I am pretty sure. My 02 sensors are unplugged because the car was hesitating. I unplugged them as a temporary fix and I didn't think it would make a significant difference.

Something is definitely wrong because my car should not be trapping at 85 MPH, 92 or 93 is what it should be trapping at.

Mods include an intake, and 8.8 lb flywheel and a mandrel bent 2.5" exhaust.

Any thoughts?

 

you should be hitting high 14's with stock b16. i think your o2's play a really big part of that. what was your reaction? what kinda tires were you on?

 

I ran a better e/t with a nearly stock zc, I would say something is wrong

 

Put your O2's back in, they are probably just reversed. Switch c8 and c16 on your ecu. My car was doing the same thing and this cured it.

 

My reaction time was bad, but that has nothing to do with the fact that my car trapped at only 85 mph.

I was running nitto 555r drag radials..... And cut a 2.2 60 ft


The o2 sensors are definitely hurting my power, I am going switch the pins around as soon as possible.

 

looks like your getting off the start pretty quick but then dying up top. i dont think your o2's should play a big role (hooking them up wont put u in the 14's) since they dont do much at WOT. could it be a tranny gearing problem? just for reference i ran a 16.1 at 82 mph . post up your whole slip. oh yea what was your tire psi

 

time slip

60ft' - 2.24
330 - 6.412
1/8 - 9.93 - 70.23
1000 - 12.946
1/4 - 15.5 @ 85.87

I got off the line quick, but my car wasn't making HP it should.

I have a J1 tranny too, so it has real aggressive gears....

 

Let's see the RT.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ef ***** &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let's see the RT.</TD></TR></TABLE>

His RT is going to have nothing to do with how his car is running or ever what his 1/4 mile times are...

 

rt was 1.2, but like keithv said, it only matters if you are racing straight up against somebody, and this was test and tune so it was neglible. Even though i had a bad rt, i still smoked a early 90's V8 firebird.

I would be happier if I ran a 15.5 @ 93 MPH, b/c at least I would know my car is making the power and I just can't drive it. But it's exactly the opposite of that, I drove it about as fast as it could go with the power it is making.

I have a feeling it is a combination of 2 things:

Worn clutch ( still running the clutch that came with the swap)

o2 sensors are unplugged ( air/fuel ratios are way off) causing the ECU to run in an open loop mode, either running to lean or too rich.

Next year will be a different story, I'm still optimistic about the car.

 

How heavy is your car?

My 91 Si Hatch was making the correct HP at the wheels for a stocker B16 engine, but only ran 15.6 best because of the 2500 pound weight with me in it.

With mods, making 151 at the wheels, I ran a best of 14.8!

Weight plays a HUGE role in your MPH and ET.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR Kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How heavy is your car?

My 91 Si Hatch was making the correct HP at the wheels for a stocker B16 engine, but only ran 15.6 best because of the 2500 pound weight with me in it.

With mods, making 151 at the wheels, I ran a best of 14.8!

Weight plays a HUGE role in your MPH and ET.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My car is an EF hatch as it says in my sig, and it weighs around 2100 lbs, add 170 lbs and thats what it weighs.


Modified by hybrid honda at 1:16 PM 11/10/2003

 

in my crx i was pulling 2.2 60 foots and my best was a 14.4 with a bone stock b16 i only had intake filter stock tubing and exhaust...stock header stock everything. my trap speed was between 96 and 97

 

what tranny are you using?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKsnatchback &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what tranny are you using?</TD></TR></TABLE>

J1 tranny with the real short gear ratio's.

I believe they are very similar to an ITR tranny.

Thats what confuses me, I have a close ratio tranny, my car is really light, I got a good lauch with a 2.2 60 ft, and I ran a 15.5 at 85 MPH

I should be trapping way higher than 85.

 

Have you ever weighed your car before, or are you guessing? There is at least 300 pounds of difference between an 88 STD model and a 91 Si, FYI.

 

i know this might sound stupid, but check your throttle cable and make sure its right. when i first got my swap, my friend in his base rsx was smoking me; until i took it to a shop and they looked at it....turns out my throttle cable wasn't mounted right and i wasn't even gettin WOT when i floored it. ever since i got that fixed and got my cams in, i feel like i have a whole different car. then i got my car honda dyno-tuned, feels twice as better now.

 

you should definitely get the o2 sensors fixed cause that'll be hurting you a lot.

 

I ran a 15.4 @ 89 mph with a completely stock zc in my crx, Something is way wrong

 

ya ur 1/8th mile is pretty nice with a 9.93, must have been due to decent 60ft

im doing consistent 15.3's @ 92 with a bad 2.45 60ft with my bolt on zc........

definitely check those 02 sensors and dont forget to reset your ecu........

 

Also check your fuel supply. There seems to be a common belief that the stock CRX fuel system can handle a B-series motor without problems. But this is often not true. Even if a good stock pump COULD support a B-series motor, it is VERY likely that your 13+ year old stock pump with over 100000 miles can't. I was shocked to find that my stock DX fuel pump (which even Hasport claimed was adequate for my ITR motor - even when 16 years old and with 270000 miles!) quit supplying my ITR motor with adequate fuel as early as ~5800RPM! I would hate to think of how much power this motor has been losing due to this. Or worse yet, what kind of damage could possibly have occurred due to the lean condition. I should also note that the stock fuel pump in my 1989 Civic STD HB stopped supplying my B20 with adequate fuel at about the same RPM. It is no wonder I can't get the thing to run 14's!

You might try testing your pump to see if it is pumping adequately. I tested mine by connecting a hose to the regulator, running the hose into the car, and having it drain into a gas can. I then went for a little drive. The moment that the regulator stops bleeding fuel is the moment that the fuel pump stops supplying adequate fuel. Beyond that, you are leaning out. Like I said, this happened with my ITR motor with the stock DX fuel pump at about 5800RPM - not far into VTEC. Just keep in mind that this is not a very safe thing to do. So if you do this, do it at your own risk. On the other hand, you could just go ahead and replace it with an upgraded pump regardless. The latter would not be a bad idea considering that old pumps can and do fail. And a failed pump typically means alot of walking. In any case, your pump probably IS falling short.

One more thing. This is often hard to feel. Your car will pull good until the pump starts to fall short. Low end torque will not suffer. And the torque rolloff might be a little too subtle to feel. In other words, the car will feel strong BUT will not run good times at the track.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chadmasterc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Put your O2's back in, they are probably just reversed. Switch c8 and c16 on your ecu. My car was doing the same thing and this cured it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because 1/4 mile runs are typically full throttle runs, oxygen sensors don't matter. They are more important when it comes to fuel economy, emissions, and part-throttle power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I pulled a best time of 15.5 out of 2 runs.

My 02 sensors are unplugged because the car was hesitating. I unplugged them as a temporary fix and I didn't think it would make a significant difference.


Mods include an intake, and 8.8 lb flywheel and a mandrel bent 2.5" exhaust.

Any thoughts?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm surprised no one has asked you this yet, but what ECU are you running? If you disconnected your o2's your OBD0 PR3 or PWO ecu should trip an O2 Code. This would cause a check engine light and the engine would run in "limp" mode.

I suggest reconnecting your O2 back up and maybe switch them around if you are getting a hesistation problem. ( Ive only run into a few EF with B16s where you MAY have to switch C8 and C16 around.)

If you brought your car to a shop or someone for the swap, make sure they didnt PULL out the CHECK ENGINE light BULB to disguise the problem. I've seen some crooked *** stunts like this come to my shop for repair before.

***A quick way to verify that the BULB is still there is to disconnect a main sensor, VTEC, VTEC Oil, O2, etc. then start the engine. The check engine light should come on now, if it doesnt either they took out the bulb, using a stock ecu to run the B16, or they are using a "chipped" ecu that "IGNOREs" some of these sensors.

If you have everything wired up right, you should be pulling better times than that with a B16. I had a 89 CRX SI ( heavier than my HF ) with an 1 st gen B16, J1 tranny, stock header, stock heavy *** flywheel, with Thermal cat-back that pulled 14.3 with a 2.1 60ft.

You have some goodies and a lightened flywheel to free up some revs, so you should be pulling better times. Your 60ft aint bad if you are using street tires.

Other than that, the only thing I can think of is that you have your tires SO DEFLATED for a better launch, but your losing time trying to roll those nearly flat tires the rest of the way down the track, hence your poor trap speeds and overall qtr mile time.


Something is definitely not right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HandCommand &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you disconnected your o2's your OBD0 PR3 or PWO ecu should trip an O2 Code. This would cause a check engine light and the engine would run in "limp" mode.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Based on my experience, an oxygen sensor code will not send an ECU into limp mode. At least on a USDM P30. I would not think that a JDM PR3/PW0 would be any more likely to do so.

 

you can also tell if the check engine light has been disconnected simply by turning your key switch to the on position but do not start the car. all the lights will light up to let you know they are working.