cylinder head rebuild
engine previously was a fully stock 1996 B18b.
-alaniz competition headwork on 94 LS head, OEM 3 layer headgasket
-stock 96 LS block and as well as the rest of the motor
-STR fuel rail; injectors, fuel pump, FPR are stock
-crower 404 nonvtec cams, crower valvetrain, STR gears
-OEM honda cylnder head gasket kit, OEM honda belt kit
-skunk2 intake manifold & LS throttle body bored to type-R specs.
-stock ECU from a 1996 B18b (OBDII?), brand new NGK spark plugs
hoses and piping are all connected according to HELMS manual
did an oil change right after swap
when i prime the engine, the fuel pressure increases to 45 psi then drops to 0 psi in about 5 seconds
i'm pretty positive my injectors are not leaking. they are fitted tight in the fuel rail. no fuel is leaking from the rail either
engine turns but does not start
no CELs are showing
any help i can get from you guys? i'll post up pictures later on to show what everything is looking like.
-alaniz competition headwork on 94 LS head, OEM 3 layer headgasket
-stock 96 LS block and as well as the rest of the motor
-STR fuel rail; injectors, fuel pump, FPR are stock
-crower 404 nonvtec cams, crower valvetrain, STR gears
-OEM honda cylnder head gasket kit, OEM honda belt kit
-skunk2 intake manifold & LS throttle body bored to type-R specs.
-stock ECU from a 1996 B18b (OBDII?), brand new NGK spark plugs
hoses and piping are all connected according to HELMS manual
did an oil change right after swap
when i prime the engine, the fuel pressure increases to 45 psi then drops to 0 psi in about 5 seconds
i'm pretty positive my injectors are not leaking. they are fitted tight in the fuel rail. no fuel is leaking from the rail either
engine turns but does not start
no CELs are showing
any help i can get from you guys? i'll post up pictures later on to show what everything is looking like.
FPR is working. could it be something wrong with the vacumn in my intake manifold (skunk2) or throttle body that causes the fuel pressure to drop to 0psi?
yeah it turned out the FPR might have been shot. i replaced it with another one and the fuel pressure stays at about 45 psi right now. car still won't start; fifty-fifty it's my timing. do i need a timing gun to check timing or is there a cheaper way.
so i did a sort of rebuilt my cylinder head and the car has problems starting up. at first i thought it was fuel, but my fuel system seems to be working fine. any surefire way to test if my fuel injectors are firing correctly? all hoses and lines are connected, battery charged, new sparks plugs. engine turns over when started. i'm sort of wondering if it is my timing. please help me out on this. hopefully the pictures can help out.
i stuck the pins in my cams to keep them at TDC.
the left cam gear seems to be perfect, am i correct?
is the right cam gear correct at all? that's the one i can't figure out. even with the pin stuck in the hole, it still naturally tilts to one side.
i'm not sure if the timing marks for the right cam gear are correct
all motor ls
i stuck the pins in my cams to keep them at TDC.
the left cam gear seems to be perfect, am i correct?
is the right cam gear correct at all? that's the one i can't figure out. even with the pin stuck in the hole, it still naturally tilts to one side.
i'm not sure if the timing marks for the right cam gear are correct
all motor ls
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make sure all the timing marks are lined up
you want to put the pins in the cams like you are doing.
but the pins still allow the cams to have some play.
take a ruler or straight edge and line up the cam marks on your cam gears.
so basically have your cam gears setup at 0,0
then have the crank at the tdc mark (white one) then
take the straight edge and line it up to the white marks on both of the cam gears.
the straight edge should go from the exhaust cam at 9 oclock (270*) through the middle of the bolt, then to the 3 oclock (90*) mark, then on the intake cam, it should hit the 9 oclock (270*) mark then the middle of the bolt again and to the 3 oclock (90*) mark one more time.
if you do that then all of white marks should be on one paralel plane that is almost horizontal to the plane on head.
you want to put the pins in the cams like you are doing.
but the pins still allow the cams to have some play.
take a ruler or straight edge and line up the cam marks on your cam gears.
so basically have your cam gears setup at 0,0
then have the crank at the tdc mark (white one) then
take the straight edge and line it up to the white marks on both of the cam gears.
the straight edge should go from the exhaust cam at 9 oclock (270*) through the middle of the bolt, then to the 3 oclock (90*) mark, then on the intake cam, it should hit the 9 oclock (270*) mark then the middle of the bolt again and to the 3 oclock (90*) mark one more time.
if you do that then all of white marks should be on one paralel plane that is almost horizontal to the plane on head.
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calguino
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Nov 25, 2015 04:23 PM




