4TH GEN FRONT ROTORS?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member

Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,494
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From: Wrightsville, PA, U.S.A.
Im in the market to get new front rotors for my 4th gen for inspection.
my old rotor looks like this
and the one im looking to buy looks like this
does it matter that the new rotors have the large openning in the center?
my old rotor looks like this
and the one im looking to buy looks like this
does it matter that the new rotors have the large openning in the center?
that new rotor is the wrong one, you have a rotor over hub design give us some more details on your car? Did you buy it new have you done any brake work to it?
Accordhybrid
Accordhybrid
The rotor in the bottom picture is from a 1990 to 1997 car. The picture you are showing at the top appears to be pre 1990 or post 1997 ... that is if it is an Accord you are working on.
The rotor in the bottom picture will NOT fit the one in the top picture.
The top picture is a removeable rotor and the lower picture is a pressed on rotor.
The rotor in the bottom picture will NOT fit the one in the top picture.
The top picture is a removeable rotor and the lower picture is a pressed on rotor.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member

Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,494
Likes: 0
From: Wrightsville, PA, U.S.A.
so if i have the bottom rotor on my car & not the top one, can i replace the rotor my self or do i need special tools to remove & press on the new one?
ALL 90-97 accord's use the bottom rotor. u are going to need special tools. i will warn you that it is a BITCH to get the rotor/hub assembly off the knuckle. i am way too lazy to write a DIY, so go search for it at hondasociety.com and maybe u might find my DIY. goodluck!!!
1. Tools: 36mm axle nut socket (autozone)
Breaker Bar with 5 ft water pipe for leverage
2 Jaw Puller (autozone)
I think a 10mm 12pt socket
(4)10mm x 1.25 60mm long bolt
2. If you have rims move the center cap and while the car is on have someone hold the brakes and remove the axle nut. if you dont have rims remove the steelies jack up the car have someone hold the brakes and remove the axle nut.
3. Seperate the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle using the 2 jaw puller.
4. Seperate the lower ball joint from the low control arm using the 2 jaw puller.
5. Remove the caliper and caliper bracket and hold the caliper up with rope or hang it somewhere so it doesnt fall and break the brake line.
6. Now you can seperate the cv joint from the hub.
7. Behind the hub is the 4 bolts. remove those with the 10mm 12pt(i think)
8. With the (4)10mm x 1.25 60mm long bolt insert those in the 4 bolts u just removed in step 7 and screw those in all the way.
9. with a hammer or something else, pound the bolts off. without damaging the bearing.
10. if you cannot remove the hub off the knuckle, remove the upper balljoint off the upper control arm. becareful because when u take off the upper control arm the whole assembly will fall off, so i suggest either having the lower balljoint back in the lower control arm then take off the upper then take the lower off.
11. since you couldnt remove the hub off the knuckle u will need to look in your yellow pages and find an automotive machine shop. they should charge less than $40 to press your hub off your knuckle and while they do that have them install your new rotor too(shouldn't cost anything)!!!!
12. now you have your new rotor and just undo the steps. GOODLUCK!!!!!
someone should definately sticky my DIY, cause we've had way too many topics on this!!!!
Breaker Bar with 5 ft water pipe for leverage
2 Jaw Puller (autozone)
I think a 10mm 12pt socket
(4)10mm x 1.25 60mm long bolt
2. If you have rims move the center cap and while the car is on have someone hold the brakes and remove the axle nut. if you dont have rims remove the steelies jack up the car have someone hold the brakes and remove the axle nut.
3. Seperate the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle using the 2 jaw puller.
4. Seperate the lower ball joint from the low control arm using the 2 jaw puller.
5. Remove the caliper and caliper bracket and hold the caliper up with rope or hang it somewhere so it doesnt fall and break the brake line.
6. Now you can seperate the cv joint from the hub.
7. Behind the hub is the 4 bolts. remove those with the 10mm 12pt(i think)
8. With the (4)10mm x 1.25 60mm long bolt insert those in the 4 bolts u just removed in step 7 and screw those in all the way.
9. with a hammer or something else, pound the bolts off. without damaging the bearing.
10. if you cannot remove the hub off the knuckle, remove the upper balljoint off the upper control arm. becareful because when u take off the upper control arm the whole assembly will fall off, so i suggest either having the lower balljoint back in the lower control arm then take off the upper then take the lower off.
11. since you couldnt remove the hub off the knuckle u will need to look in your yellow pages and find an automotive machine shop. they should charge less than $40 to press your hub off your knuckle and while they do that have them install your new rotor too(shouldn't cost anything)!!!!
12. now you have your new rotor and just undo the steps. GOODLUCK!!!!!
someone should definately sticky my DIY, cause we've had way too many topics on this!!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D21X »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ALL 90-97 accord's use the bottom rotor. u are going to need special tools. i will warn you that it is a BITCH to get the rotor/hub assembly off the knuckle. i am way too lazy to write a DIY, so go search for it at hondasociety.com and maybe u might find my DIY. goodluck!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I can seriously attest to this... I didn't know I could speak "French" when my brother and I swapped out mines for cross-drilled/slotted ones...
BTW- on step 8 going into step 9, I used an impact gun w/ an attachment that covers the head of the 4 bolts and just "vibrated" the old rotors off (instead of pounding it off with a hammer)... Takes time, but, less stress on the bearings when taking the rotors off... Since the rotors are off, inspect the wheel bearing and replace, if need to...
I can seriously attest to this... I didn't know I could speak "French" when my brother and I swapped out mines for cross-drilled/slotted ones...
BTW- on step 8 going into step 9, I used an impact gun w/ an attachment that covers the head of the 4 bolts and just "vibrated" the old rotors off (instead of pounding it off with a hammer)... Takes time, but, less stress on the bearings when taking the rotors off... Since the rotors are off, inspect the wheel bearing and replace, if need to...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D21X »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">11. since you couldnt remove the hub off the knuckle u will need to look in your yellow pages and find an automotive machine shop. they should charge less than $40 to press your hub off your knuckle and while they do that have them install your new rotor too(shouldn't cost anything)!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, thats basically what I did. I just removed the entire knuckle from the car and took it to a shop. I had them remove the bearing/hub/rotor assembly from the knuckle, then I had them install new bearings, new rotors, new splash guards(don't ask), and extended studs. They also turned the rotors once everything was put together. They charged me $25 per side. It was definately worth it to pay $50 total and have everything done in about an hour.
Yup, thats basically what I did. I just removed the entire knuckle from the car and took it to a shop. I had them remove the bearing/hub/rotor assembly from the knuckle, then I had them install new bearings, new rotors, new splash guards(don't ask), and extended studs. They also turned the rotors once everything was put together. They charged me $25 per side. It was definately worth it to pay $50 total and have everything done in about an hour.
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