looking to chip ecu, anyone know anythign about there p28 h22 program

 

They are good but not great.

 

well the only good reason I'd see most go with a P28 on a H22 would be to get rid of EGR and knock sensor since the P28 doesn't look for them like the P13 does

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ninja_Jc7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well the only good reason I'd see most go with a P28 on a H22 would be to get rid of EGR and knock sensor since the P28 doesn't look for them like the P13 does</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is true but it does not make up for the fact that it doesn't operate your secondaries, unless of course you remove them totally. Stick with the p13 and spoon chip. I have tried many different combo's and over all it is my favorite with bolt-ons. If you plan on going FI then you may want to look into all the programs availiable depending on your application.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That is true but it does not make up for the fact that it doesn't operate your secondaries, unless of course you remove them totally. Stick with the p13 and spoon chip. I have tried many different combo's and over all it is my favorite with bolt-ons. If you plan on going FI then you may want to look into all the programs availiable depending on your application.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what about running secondaries off of vacumm then? You can place a vacuum hose from the IAB valve to the side nipple on the intake manifold so when you step on the gas the secondaries will be opebn but when you have very little gas they will stay closed. Another method would be hooking up a RPM switch to the actually IAB when you want them to open. I think the vaccum method is best since IAB is a paint to hook up

EGR is a pain if it's not hooked up and I wouldn't like the idea of "HOT" air being recirculated into my engine. If EGR isn't hooked it will only throw soft code 12 and make you run slightly rich. It's more annoying then anything with that damm CEL being on then going rich though

P13 and P28 are both good ECU's but for the EGR problem I would go with a P28 if your looking to get every single ounce of power possibly


Modified by Ninja_Jc7 at 10:22 PM 11/4/2003


Modified by Ninja_Jc7 at 2:03 PM 11/5/2003

 

The H22 chipped P28 is a good program to run off of. I have not personally ran off it, but knowing ECU's, an H22 chipped P28 will be just as good as running P13 without EGR (code 12).

As for IAB's, you can just remove it and hook 'em up like this:



Just as Jerry was explaining above they are only open at mid to WOT, anything less than mid they are closed.

I've been driving that way for quite sometime now and works well.

Brian, j00 know you want that ECU with that nawss

 

I'm trying to get ahold of a couple of people (sucks when I'm not in town ), but when I get my H22A EK hatch back from the paint shop, I'll try to schedule some dyno time with my Hondata P28 setup, our H22A P28 program, a stock P13, Spoon P13, and a couple of other "decent" ECU setups that I have in mind, and see what kind of differences you can expect with different ECU configurations for a H22A motor.

 

i have head about running iab on to the hole of the intank man., but are you guy sure it open when full throttle????how would you know???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jacklee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have head about running iab on to the hole of the intank man., but are you guy sure it open when full throttle????how would you know???</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah... umm.. u could get one of those really cool clear hoods... and when ur driving down the highway, climb out and look YO!!!!! hahaha LOL

 

this would work... not in the most premium of ways.. but it would work.

the valves are naturally open. vacuum shuts them. these valves are now going to be variably open by vacuum, rather then just open/closed based on RPM.

at full vacuum they will close, and at crusing they would be closed. the second you floor it they will open, regardless of RPM.

Which makes me wonder... what is the point in even having them? Before I did that I would just take the plate out and remove the butterflies and put it back in. This is done in the MR2 world all the time as our 3SGTEs have that crap too.

if you cared to see it in action, rather then hanging on a clear hood while driving around... it would be easier and safer to simply rev the engine by opening the throttle body with your hand.