for those of you who just dump the line from the PCV valve to a plastic bottle, do you drill out the valve in the PCV to leave it permanently open?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for those of you who just dump the line from the PCV valve to a plastic bottle, do you drill out the valve in the PCV to leave it permanently open? </TD></TR></TABLE>

no. i left the pcv valve alone and routed the rubber line to the catch bottle.

 

are you sure you did it right?

I tried using a very stout plastic bottle, it started collapsing on itself shortly after starting the engine.

 

You must've hooked the bottle to vacume.

This is how mine was done for a few weeks. It ain't purty, but we did it at the track in about 3 minutes. New line running from the top of the PCV to the bottle. Original vacume line has the bolt-plug you can see.

I'm chasing that oil leak still, so it's hooked back up in the stock configuration right now. I'm hoping by putting vacume back to the oil breather box will stop the leak.

 

hey john, why did you tape up the bottle like that? im hoping your goal was not to make it air tight, because not letting it breathe may be the reason youre leaking.

 

why wouldnt you want it sealed?

the tube that you're replacing this contraption with is sealed (from PCV to intake manifold).

 

of course you wouldnt want it sealed, the crankcase chamber is is supposed to push air out. if the whole system is sealed, then where is the air supposed to go?

stock setup is certainly NOT sealed, it dumps into the intake manifolds open stream of air.

 

i see now.

there's no return line from the bottle to the intake manifold.

hrm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i see now.

there's no return line from the bottle to the intake manifold.

hrm.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and its not needed.

 

john,

Are your windshield nozzles still hooked up? If not couldn't you use the windshield washer fluid bottle as a catch can?

 

You need to put holes in the can so the veaper can go out of it. If you dont the can might burst from the heat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johng &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You must've hooked the bottle to vacume.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I certainly did. I thought that was the whole point.. It sucks all the vapors out, but seperates the oil in the catch can so that it doesn't go back into your intake..

do I have the wrong idea?

 

There is a hole in the top of the bottle to displace the air if the bottle were to become filled with fluid. I needed to be reminded of this fact while we were rigging it up.

 

Nik,
You have the right idea, mine may be flawed. All I'm trying to do is keep the engine from injesting straight oil while cornering (hence the catch bottle), and stop a oil leak.

Our current theory is that the oil breather box needs vacume to properly vent the crankcase without collecting excess oil and leaking from the box down the back of the engine block. I'd rather not suck oil vapor if I don't have to, so we'll see.

 

HVAC foil tape ownes... not only to reflect heat, but it'll stick to anything. It looks like John may have used it to accomplish both.

 

I've been using an aluminium drink bottle which works great, was pretty cheap too. http://www.integra.orcon.net.nz/catchcan
Not sure about SOHC'ers but on my B16 you definately need the Vacuum of the IM to draw it through from the PCV.

 

Routing the pcv was intended to burn crankcase vapors instead of letting them into the atmosphere. At the same time, the piston coming down sucks in air from wherever it can and the backside of the piston is pushing air down. The pcv is a check valve not allowing fresh air to go into the crankcase. Having this keeps any negative or positive pressure in the crankcase which in turn helps it spin more freely. Plugging this route up where is the air going to go. Air can compress but only so much, it is going to try and escape anywhere it can. This is a major reason new cam seals and crank seals leak, even though they were installed within a year. They didn't change the pcv.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not sure about SOHC'ers but on my B16 you definately need the Vacuum of the IM to draw it through from the PCV.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i really disagree. as james mentioned the reason of letting the crankcase breathe, theres no reason to pull the air out, it will be pushed out on its own just fine.

anyway, the reason of why i asked whether the PCV valve should be disabled is just cuz someone else told me to do it who knows his hondas and race engines, but he's told me to do other stuff ive regretted so just wanted to check with other honda guys.

 

Actualy, i like the idea of having vaccum. If the crankcase vapor is breathed only, i feel there can still be positive pressure in the crankcase (this is mostly theory now). The pcv hole diameter is very small. Take a straw for example, blow through it. Measure the volume. Now blow through the straw again while your girlfriend sucks from the other side, of the straw. Does more volume of air pass through? Bottom line is to try and keep zero pressure in the crankcase. Once again in theory, to help the engine spin more freely.

Hey Tyson, how's it going?