Updated pics of my direct port nitrous setup (rsx)
well since my last topic about this was a bombshell because i had linked the pics from clubrsx (well i just found out that you need an acct. to view pics there from my friend mike a few days ago)...so here it is, copied and pasted from a different forum i go to
<FONT SIZE="2">a few months after completion...now i finally have some time on my hands without work/school (it's fall break) so i cleaned up my ground wires install that i put in a week or so ago and decided to finally take some pics
there are a bunch of pics so this will take some time</FONT>
the intake manifold is polished in the pictures...just a little dirty















by the way, switches are...
top red one is purge
below that is the bottle opener
top left round switch is to arm the entire system
top right round switch is for the bottle heater
the bottom 2 are for the taillights (bottom left is for the brake lights and bottom right is for the rest of the lights)...just an idea i read about awhile back...just in case of any sort of chases or anything...you know, probably something i would never use but put it in there just in case

radar detector relocation...that is the hidden display
unless a cop physically puts his head in the window and looks up, there is no way to see that (i know radar detectors aren't illegal but if a cop sees that you have one, you are almost guarenteed a ticket...at least in my mind, so thats why i did it)

new radar detector location...all wires are hidden
sorry for the crappy pic but basically it is there using the visor clip that comes with the radar detector that i modified


bottle...crappy pics but you get the idea
bottle is painted blue to red chameleon...it was just an idea we had awhile back...it looks pretty good but i'll probably get a carbon composite bottle in the future...btw in case you can't tell it is in the spare tire well...with the carpet in place you can't tell it is there at all

and to finish off the set of pics...this is what you will see
<FONT SIZE="2">a few months after completion...now i finally have some time on my hands without work/school (it's fall break) so i cleaned up my ground wires install that i put in a week or so ago and decided to finally take some pics
there are a bunch of pics so this will take some time</FONT>
the intake manifold is polished in the pictures...just a little dirty













by the way, switches are...
top red one is purge
below that is the bottle opener
top left round switch is to arm the entire system
top right round switch is for the bottle heater
the bottom 2 are for the taillights (bottom left is for the brake lights and bottom right is for the rest of the lights)...just an idea i read about awhile back...just in case of any sort of chases or anything...you know, probably something i would never use but put it in there just in case

radar detector relocation...that is the hidden display
unless a cop physically puts his head in the window and looks up, there is no way to see that (i know radar detectors aren't illegal but if a cop sees that you have one, you are almost guarenteed a ticket...at least in my mind, so thats why i did it)

new radar detector location...all wires are hidden
sorry for the crappy pic but basically it is there using the visor clip that comes with the radar detector that i modified


bottle...crappy pics but you get the idea
bottle is painted blue to red chameleon...it was just an idea we had awhile back...it looks pretty good but i'll probably get a carbon composite bottle in the future...btw in case you can't tell it is in the spare tire well...with the carpet in place you can't tell it is there at all

and to finish off the set of pics...this is what you will see
Yeah, let us know how you tapped into the rear lights. I read about that being done on some older dudes Integra Type-r like some years ago, he wired everything but the headlights to go out. (Just in case)....
Sounds sort of cool. Did you use any relays or just tap the switch into the wiring?
Also where exactly is your v-1, it appears to be close to the headliner light,
I like that set up...Please clarify...Thanks
Sounds sort of cool. Did you use any relays or just tap the switch into the wiring?
Also where exactly is your v-1, it appears to be close to the headliner light,
I like that set up...Please clarify...Thanks
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well as for the taillight rewiring, GreenBean, that is where i got the idea too...from the old guy w/ the type r
basically we just went through all the circuit diagrams in my helms manual and highlighted the specific wires...there are 2 wires that need to be taken care of (one for the brake lights and one for the rest of the rear lights)...i don't have my helms around right now and don't remember the colors of the wires but they are in the mass of wires that is run through the center console (if you have ever taken out your center console, the bundle of wires that is attached to the shifter...well it's in there)
and as to everyone saying that they wouldn't put it on their cars...why? do some research, learn a thing or two about nitrous...it is perfectly safe as long as you know what you are doing
there are plenty of people over on clubrsx running 100 and 125 shot wet kits...i remember awhile back a guy who had run 80 bottes of a 125 shot through the motor...on a wet shot
i keep repeating on a wet shot because a direct port setup is quite a bit safer...think about it, the wet kit is tapped in very close to the throttle body spraying the nitrous and fuel through the throttle body into the intake manifold...but that first cylinder will get the brunt of the spray...lets say on a 100 shot that first cylinder gets 30-35 of it...then the second will get 25-30, the third getting 20-25 and the fourth getting maybe 15-20 (i know that doesn't necessarily add up, just using examples)...thus wearing those first 2 cylinders quite a bit quicker...with a direct port 100 shot, an equal amount of nitrous and fuel is delivered into each cylinder...also the rsx responds incredibly well to nitrous
my kit is run through a full throttle switch and a window switch with a fuel pressure and nitrous pressure (both electric) guages inside the car...there is also a bottle heater and a fuel pressure safety switch that shuts the entire nitrous sytem off if the fuel pressure drops
chances are that i will go for a turbo in the future (maybe not for a year or so though)
basically we just went through all the circuit diagrams in my helms manual and highlighted the specific wires...there are 2 wires that need to be taken care of (one for the brake lights and one for the rest of the rear lights)...i don't have my helms around right now and don't remember the colors of the wires but they are in the mass of wires that is run through the center console (if you have ever taken out your center console, the bundle of wires that is attached to the shifter...well it's in there)
and as to everyone saying that they wouldn't put it on their cars...why? do some research, learn a thing or two about nitrous...it is perfectly safe as long as you know what you are doing
there are plenty of people over on clubrsx running 100 and 125 shot wet kits...i remember awhile back a guy who had run 80 bottes of a 125 shot through the motor...on a wet shot
i keep repeating on a wet shot because a direct port setup is quite a bit safer...think about it, the wet kit is tapped in very close to the throttle body spraying the nitrous and fuel through the throttle body into the intake manifold...but that first cylinder will get the brunt of the spray...lets say on a 100 shot that first cylinder gets 30-35 of it...then the second will get 25-30, the third getting 20-25 and the fourth getting maybe 15-20 (i know that doesn't necessarily add up, just using examples)...thus wearing those first 2 cylinders quite a bit quicker...with a direct port 100 shot, an equal amount of nitrous and fuel is delivered into each cylinder...also the rsx responds incredibly well to nitrous
my kit is run through a full throttle switch and a window switch with a fuel pressure and nitrous pressure (both electric) guages inside the car...there is also a bottle heater and a fuel pressure safety switch that shuts the entire nitrous sytem off if the fuel pressure drops
chances are that i will go for a turbo in the future (maybe not for a year or so though)
oh, and i'm at work right now...i'll have to post up exterior shots later on
list of mods include (just off the top of my head)
performance: 80004efi nx direct port nitrous kit, nx genx-2 kit, nx remote bottle opener, hks earth grounding system, aem cai, greddy evo exhaust, revo short shifter
suspension: koni yellow shocks, progress springs, progress front sway bar, progress rear sway bar, progress rear tie bar, dronell d power ts05 18x7.5 wheels with yokohama es100 tires (225/40)
interior: pioneer premier p940mp, apexi vafc2, valentine one with hidden display, titanium shift ****, autometer cobalt nitrous and fuel pressure guages on pillar
exterior: real carbon fiber jdm front lip, jdm rear wing, dark tint
i'm sure there is plenty of other stuff, i just can't think of it offhand right now...that was just off the top of my head
soon to come are the jdm sides and rear lip, a front X brace, as well as a mugen front and rear strut tower brace...not quite sure what else after that, possibly start building my own turbo kit
list of mods include (just off the top of my head)
performance: 80004efi nx direct port nitrous kit, nx genx-2 kit, nx remote bottle opener, hks earth grounding system, aem cai, greddy evo exhaust, revo short shifter
suspension: koni yellow shocks, progress springs, progress front sway bar, progress rear sway bar, progress rear tie bar, dronell d power ts05 18x7.5 wheels with yokohama es100 tires (225/40)
interior: pioneer premier p940mp, apexi vafc2, valentine one with hidden display, titanium shift ****, autometer cobalt nitrous and fuel pressure guages on pillar
exterior: real carbon fiber jdm front lip, jdm rear wing, dark tint
i'm sure there is plenty of other stuff, i just can't think of it offhand right now...that was just off the top of my head
soon to come are the jdm sides and rear lip, a front X brace, as well as a mugen front and rear strut tower brace...not quite sure what else after that, possibly start building my own turbo kit
about the v1...the display is on the little piece of plastic in front of the map lights with the wire running up through the headliner and the actual v1 is all the way in the back of the headliner with the wiring running through the headliner and side paneling...i can see how that pic is hard to see, i'll try to see if i have any others on my computer when i get home tonight
basically in my mind, if you have a radar detector and get pulled over for speeding, you are getting a ticket...i have been with plenty of people who have been pulled over and have been pulled over quite a few times myself to have come to this conclusion
so with my setup this way, unless a cop put his head inside your window and looked up, he cannot see either the hidden display or the actual detector...so basically both are not visible from the outside
basically in my mind, if you have a radar detector and get pulled over for speeding, you are getting a ticket...i have been with plenty of people who have been pulled over and have been pulled over quite a few times myself to have come to this conclusion
so with my setup this way, unless a cop put his head inside your window and looked up, he cannot see either the hidden display or the actual detector...so basically both are not visible from the outside
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