brake bleeding
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From: Eastern Shore, Maryland, usa
Im gonna install integra rear brakes hopefully next weekend. I know im gonna need to bleed thesystem, but should i go ahead and change all the fluid?
Ive had the car for about 4 or 5 years and i think its only been done once at the most.
If i dont have to completely drain it what kind of fluid should i use to add in? Im not really sure what is in there now.
This is my first time doing this so any feedback should help.
Ive had the car for about 4 or 5 years and i think its only been done once at the most.
If i dont have to completely drain it what kind of fluid should i use to add in? Im not really sure what is in there now.
This is my first time doing this so any feedback should help.
Dot 4, Valvoline comes in a tannish colored container, works pretty good all around to replace. Ford makes a heavy duty brake fluid for truck use that alot of Road racers use, I can't remember the specs on it. I would recommend Russell Speed Bleeders to make the bleeding go alot easier. To speed the process up first suck out most of the ild fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster or large 60cc syringe. Then you can clean the filter out reinstall then top off the reservoir with new fluid and you just saved yourself alot of time. Don't let the Master Cylinder suck up any air it isn't fun trying to purge the air out of the system if you do so. Have someone keep an eye on it at all times and top off as necessary.
BTW yes bleed it until you got all of the old fluid out and you just get pure brand new fluid coming out of each caliper or you might as well not bother, you don't want to have different types of brake fluid mixed in the system.
BTW yes bleed it until you got all of the old fluid out and you just get pure brand new fluid coming out of each caliper or you might as well not bother, you don't want to have different types of brake fluid mixed in the system.
I have a related question to add, when bleeding the brakes with 2 people, 1 loosening the bleeder and 1 pumping the brake, can the person whos mashing the breaks let up on the pedal and continue pumping the fluid out or will air be sucked up? Just looking for a quick way to bleed the system without having to loosen, pump out, tighten, pump again, loosen etc...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NitrousDreamz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> dot5 brake fluid.</TD></TR></TABLE>
BAD advice! do not use DOT 5. synthetic fluids are classified as DOT 5, but should not be used with any brake systems unless specified. i know EF's dont have ABS, but do not use synthetic ESPECIALLY with ABS systems. it foams up when pushed around rapidly, not good.
Calebs tip on emptying the reservoir first and cleaning it out is definately needed. you can remove the reservoir separately from the MC and clean it out and the filter. I definately recommend Ford HD from the ford parts counter, but really, any normal brake fluid will do for the street. if you havent had your fluid boil that was never changed before, what makes you think you really need anything better...
as for 1 man brake bleeding jobs, no, you cant pump the pedal and close the bleed screw all by yourself. when the pedal springs back, it sucks the displaced volume back in, either the old fluid you pushed out, making pushing pointless, or air, which is why you have to close the screw before you lift the pedal. speedbleeders has some satisfied customers which makes quick 1 man bleeding, but really, is it that hard to find someone to help you out for 30 minutes to pump the pedal? and i dont recommend using a mityvac. it doesnt seal properly around the bleed screw.
BAD advice! do not use DOT 5. synthetic fluids are classified as DOT 5, but should not be used with any brake systems unless specified. i know EF's dont have ABS, but do not use synthetic ESPECIALLY with ABS systems. it foams up when pushed around rapidly, not good.
Calebs tip on emptying the reservoir first and cleaning it out is definately needed. you can remove the reservoir separately from the MC and clean it out and the filter. I definately recommend Ford HD from the ford parts counter, but really, any normal brake fluid will do for the street. if you havent had your fluid boil that was never changed before, what makes you think you really need anything better...
as for 1 man brake bleeding jobs, no, you cant pump the pedal and close the bleed screw all by yourself. when the pedal springs back, it sucks the displaced volume back in, either the old fluid you pushed out, making pushing pointless, or air, which is why you have to close the screw before you lift the pedal. speedbleeders has some satisfied customers which makes quick 1 man bleeding, but really, is it that hard to find someone to help you out for 30 minutes to pump the pedal? and i dont recommend using a mityvac. it doesnt seal properly around the bleed screw.
remember to also start bleeding at the farthest point from the MC and work backwards to the closest. EX. start at the Passenger side rear then the Drivers side rear, the Passenger side front, and then Drivers side front. I replaced the MC with a larger one and did the rear disc conversion also, but on a civic hatch. I used maybe a pint and a half of the cheap stuff, because I needed the car and my SS brake lines had not arrived. I have the lines now and plan to flush the entire system again and go with the Ford Heavy Duty fluid. Good luck, hope this helps.
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