Build my motor!
Try dh-racing.com. They have a b16a dyno of a stock bottom end 1st gen b16 w/ his ported head, manifold to a 70 mm tb, ctr cams and bolt ons made 189 to the wheels. Good Stuff
Personally if it were me I would go with a 1.8L block to begin with... It's just a lot easier start... We have a Mustang Dyno (this has been debated in the FI forum) which in general read lower than say a Dynojet (which many more people have)... A B16 in stock form normally will read somewhere around 130-140whp and 90-105wtq... A 40whp horsepower increase is hard without displacement... For instance a couple of our older CRVTEC's stock sleeved with 11.5-12.5:1 compresion, Portflow headwork, cams ranging from OE to aftermarket (CTR, JUN3's, SK2S2/3's, EF1, and Toda) fully tuned these guys make anywhere from 185-225whp... Tho these motors may read higher on a dynojet/dynopack these are what we stick too... One of our race motors a couple years ago was a 2.1L LSVTEC running 15.0:1 only made 265whp and 165wtq on our dyno... Sorry I went on sooo long but just tryin to explain why I would swap blocks... We've built B16's but normally you just want more later... If you do stick with your B16 it's going to take some high comrpession and a good selection of headwork/cams... Just my $0.02
Jun's b16 crate motor dynoed 235whp on a bosch in front of my face. I'm sure everyone will agree the Bosch dyno spits very humble numbers. Let the flaming begin...
Before someone flames me, I'll expand on my experience. One: The japanese machine shops, for the most part, can bore tighter tolerances than u.s. shops. Japanese crate motors I've personally seen have given pre break in leak downs of 7-8% and as low as 3% after break in. Anyone who has built a motor knows 3% leakdown is amazing. The machinery in Japan are designed for small displacement engines. Two: for anyone thats seen a map of the JUN ecu will note the agressive timing curve. and blah blah blah ...I just lost interest. E-beer anyone?
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