Anyone have a CTR AKA: B16b swap?
Anyone have one off those.. in like a HATCH?
if you have do you have any feedbacks I am thinking about going that route
I have a good deal on a CTR motor.
if you have do you have any feedbacks I am thinking about going that route
I have a good deal on a CTR motor.
Yes I have and wasn't impressed. It feels like a B16A swap with more power from 7000-9000. It still feels like a TQless wonder. I dunno i'd rather just get the JDM GSR swap for cheaper.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crXBoy69 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Y not go with an ITR swap...</TD></TR></TABLE>
because I got the motor 3thousand cheaper then the TYPE R
because I got the motor 3thousand cheaper then the TYPE R
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes I have and wasn't impressed. It feels like a B16A swap with more power from 7000-9000. It still feels like a TQless wonder. I dunno i'd rather just get the JDM GSR swap for cheaper.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dam sucks anyone else with any feedback?
dam sucks anyone else with any feedback?
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Don't listen to people who tell you to buy an ITR swap...they're morons.
The B16b swap is friggin sweet: IT reads b16 on it, but has the deck height of a 1.8L block. The cams are slightly more aggressive then ITR cams, and the intake manifold has slightly shorter runners for more top end flow...
The secret to the b16b's success.. for the $1000 difference in price you have to go buy yourself:
LS Crank: $150.00
Balancing, Polishing, Chamfering Oil Holes: $150.00
Eagle Rods: $300
Bearings: $200
Throw those in with your CTR pistons, and your compression will jump to 12.2:1 and you'll make your motor a 1.8L block.....nasty all-honda motor. Add hondata and an SMSP header and your talking about 190-210whp with all-honda parts, minimal downtime, and minimal work/labor...
The B16b swap is friggin sweet: IT reads b16 on it, but has the deck height of a 1.8L block. The cams are slightly more aggressive then ITR cams, and the intake manifold has slightly shorter runners for more top end flow...
The secret to the b16b's success.. for the $1000 difference in price you have to go buy yourself:
LS Crank: $150.00
Balancing, Polishing, Chamfering Oil Holes: $150.00
Eagle Rods: $300
Bearings: $200
Throw those in with your CTR pistons, and your compression will jump to 12.2:1 and you'll make your motor a 1.8L block.....nasty all-honda motor. Add hondata and an SMSP header and your talking about 190-210whp with all-honda parts, minimal downtime, and minimal work/labor...
MaxBoost hit the nail on the head.
One can find the B16B for cheaper than an ITR swap. The money saved can go toward making it a 1.8(if that's your thing). Plus, you get the shorter geared tranny with LSD.
One can find the B16B for cheaper than an ITR swap. The money saved can go toward making it a 1.8(if that's your thing). Plus, you get the shorter geared tranny with LSD.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaxBoost »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't listen to people who tell you to buy an ITR swap...they're morons.
The B16b swap is friggin sweet: IT reads b16 on it, but has the deck height of a 1.8L block. The cams are slightly more aggressive then ITR cams, and the intake manifold has slightly shorter runners for more top end flow...
The secret to the b16b's success.. for the $1000 difference in price you have to go buy yourself:
LS Crank: $150.00
Balancing, Polishing, Chamfering Oil Holes: $150.00
Eagle Rods: $300
Bearings: $200
Throw those in with your CTR pistons, and your compression will jump to 12.2:1 and you'll make your motor a 1.8L block.....nasty all-honda motor. Add hondata and an SMSP header and your talking about 190-210whp with all-honda parts, minimal downtime, and minimal work/labor...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you wanna do a b18c block with ls crank, why not start with a gsr block?It will be a lot cheaper than buying a b16b and doing it....and it would defeat the whole purpose of buying a b16b in the first place(perfect r/s ratio, high revs).
Second, eagle rods with pct's= not worth machine work....
third, compression with ls crank and pct's will be about 13 compression, not 12.2
fourth, IM is the same as the itr and the cams are the same as the newer itr's too.
The B16b swap is friggin sweet: IT reads b16 on it, but has the deck height of a 1.8L block. The cams are slightly more aggressive then ITR cams, and the intake manifold has slightly shorter runners for more top end flow...
The secret to the b16b's success.. for the $1000 difference in price you have to go buy yourself:
LS Crank: $150.00
Balancing, Polishing, Chamfering Oil Holes: $150.00
Eagle Rods: $300
Bearings: $200
Throw those in with your CTR pistons, and your compression will jump to 12.2:1 and you'll make your motor a 1.8L block.....nasty all-honda motor. Add hondata and an SMSP header and your talking about 190-210whp with all-honda parts, minimal downtime, and minimal work/labor...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you wanna do a b18c block with ls crank, why not start with a gsr block?It will be a lot cheaper than buying a b16b and doing it....and it would defeat the whole purpose of buying a b16b in the first place(perfect r/s ratio, high revs).
Second, eagle rods with pct's= not worth machine work....
third, compression with ls crank and pct's will be about 13 compression, not 12.2
fourth, IM is the same as the itr and the cams are the same as the newer itr's too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you wanna do a b18c block with ls crank, why not start with a gsr block?It will be a lot cheaper than buying a b16b and doing it....and it would defeat the whole purpose of buying a b16b in the first place(perfect r/s ratio, high revs).
Second, eagle rods with pct's= not worth machine work....
third, compression with ls crank and pct's will be about 13 compression, not 12.2
fourth, IM is the same as the itr and the cams are the same as the newer itr's too.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
A GSR swap doesn't come with the shorter gearing and LSD is optional and costs more. You can get a B16B swap for only a couple hundred more than a GSR swap, plus you get an entirely better head, better pistons, and a better tranny.
If you wanna do a b18c block with ls crank, why not start with a gsr block?It will be a lot cheaper than buying a b16b and doing it....and it would defeat the whole purpose of buying a b16b in the first place(perfect r/s ratio, high revs).
Second, eagle rods with pct's= not worth machine work....
third, compression with ls crank and pct's will be about 13 compression, not 12.2
fourth, IM is the same as the itr and the cams are the same as the newer itr's too.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
A GSR swap doesn't come with the shorter gearing and LSD is optional and costs more. You can get a B16B swap for only a couple hundred more than a GSR swap, plus you get an entirely better head, better pistons, and a better tranny.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WAFFLES »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A GSR swap doesn't come with the shorter gearing and LSD is optional and costs more. You can get a B16B swap for only a couple hundred more than a GSR swap, plus you get an entirely better head, better pistons, and a better tranny.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, you are right, but i was saying gsr block, not swap...
and for the money i pick b18c5
A GSR swap doesn't come with the shorter gearing and LSD is optional and costs more. You can get a B16B swap for only a couple hundred more than a GSR swap, plus you get an entirely better head, better pistons, and a better tranny.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, you are right, but i was saying gsr block, not swap...
and for the money i pick b18c5
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yeah, you are right, but i was saying gsr block, not swap...
and for the money i pick b18c5</TD></TR></TABLE>
well I got my civic type R in my EF and it rips
LSD now all I need its to get a chipped ecu which can redline 9200-9500 I will be set killer motor vtec is a whole new **** on a type r motor
yeah, you are right, but i was saying gsr block, not swap...
and for the money i pick b18c5</TD></TR></TABLE>
well I got my civic type R in my EF and it rips
LSD now all I need its to get a chipped ecu which can redline 9200-9500 I will be set killer motor vtec is a whole new **** on a type r motor
190-210whp is nice just off those mods ...that motor would prob boogie ...my friend dropped a b16b in a EG hatch and that **** moved pretty nice ...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4piston »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know someone that had a B16B in a 99 hatch. Full interior with i/h/e ran 14.7 on street tires.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice I am looking for some good Header like a TODA or SPOON.
Currenty running without the header bolted on the exhaust
nice I am looking for some good Header like a TODA or SPOON.

Currenty running without the header bolted on the exhaust
Bryan had one in his ek he went 8.6 in the 8th and low 13's in the quarter i think
http://www.donlundquist.com/Bryan/PC200015c.JPG
http://www.donlundquist.com/Bryan/PC200015c.JPG
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM2ndGen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how kind of whp and wtq is he putting down?</TD></TR></TABLE>
hahahaha!
hahahaha!



with alittle tuning it is sweet. especially if one track autox or road racing how much you find the swap for?