any problems with ARP studs breaking?
i have a set of ARP head studs for a b18c1 and when i was torqing down the head to 75lbs. one of the studs broke...i know u guys are gonna say check the torque wrench but its brand new...so im sure its not that....then i called ARP and they sent me one new stud(while the whole time i was thinkin they were gonna send me a whole new set.....
)so i started to torque the head down again and when i was torqing them at 70lbs this time another one broke...has anyone ever had this problem and do u guys recomend goin wit the AEBS studs instead...cuz i dont think i wanna trust ARP again
)so i started to torque the head down again and when i was torqing them at 70lbs this time another one broke...has anyone ever had this problem and do u guys recomend goin wit the AEBS studs instead...cuz i dont think i wanna trust ARP again
yea im gonna send them back and im calling them on monday and blacking out on them so i can get a whole set for free..this is bullshit and it should of never of broken in the first place it was only 75lbs....so this will be the second time i have to drill it outta the block
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllMoToRB18c »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> blacking out on them </TD></TR></TABLE>
What the **** does that mean?
Suprdave
What the **** does that mean?
Suprdave
**** man. Sorry to hear about the problem. I ordered a set of ARP b18c1 head studs from lightning yesterday for a great price and I hope they hold up well.
good luck wit ur studs i hope u dont have a problem with them like i did...blackout=get mad and yell at them until i get a new set of studs
That sucks! I have two engines running ARP head studs, and the heads have been off more than once with zero problems. Maybe you got a bad batch?
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Sounds like a bad cast maybe? I've never heard or this happening before. I've pulled the head on my motor 4-5 times, and never had a problem. Done this on numerous motors as well.
I would still calabrate your wrench though. You never know even though it is brand new. I would check the wrench, then if correct, try it on one of the non broken studs. If it breaks, then ARP should be willing to solve your problem.
First off; I don't think that you will have any problem dealing with ARP. I've found them to be very helpfull and interested in isolating a problem if it's with their product. (what will be an aggravation is wait for items when in transit)
I'd recommend that you write down EXACTLY how you installed the studs, should it be questioned by ARP. (and it will be)
On the assumption that you are installing them as recommended by ARP, I'd question the calibration of your new torque wrench. The fact that it's new doesn't mean it was constructed and calibrated correctly.
Wes V
I'd recommend that you write down EXACTLY how you installed the studs, should it be questioned by ARP. (and it will be)
On the assumption that you are installing them as recommended by ARP, I'd question the calibration of your new torque wrench. The fact that it's new doesn't mean it was constructed and calibrated correctly.
Wes V
well the torque wrench is craftsman...and how do u calibrate a torque wrench anyways ...cuz i wanna see if mine is ok..im just assuming it is becuz its new...and i called arp and told them exactly what happened but they only sent me one stud when it happened the first time..but i didnt want to use the old ones anymore cuz i think they were a bad set...but he didnt tell me he was only sending me one...i told him i wanted a new set and he took down my info so it seemed like i was gettin a whole set
but im thinkin about goin with the aebs studs...has anyone heard good things about them and do u guys know where i can get them for cheap?
but im thinkin about goin with the aebs studs...has anyone heard good things about them and do u guys know where i can get them for cheap?
im not tryin to give arp a bad name and make everyone turn over to aebs...i just wanna know has anyone heard of such a problem like this...and u cant blame me for wanting to turn over to aebs for head studs now...so does anyone know how to calibrate a torque wrench or how to check to see if its good?
i myself would like to see pictures on how and where these studs are breaking.It would take a **** load of torque to snap one of those studs...i would think maybe the nuts would break before the studs give out or the stud would pull the aluminum threads out of the block....
Quote, originally posted by t »
What do you use to torque down the studs to 19lbs.?
Its just hand tight with the moly lube; Than put the head on, supplied washer, torque the bolts with the supplied moly lube.
wrong. i jsut installed mine and i was having second doubts but i called arp and they gave me directions:
1. clean both sides of studs
2. *** the moly lube to the bottom
3. hand tight the studs 7lbs., preload or tighten with allen wrench
4. install the head gasket, then the head
5. add moly lobe to top of the stud
6. install the washer and nut
7. follow factory sequence to 25lbs, then 50lbs, then 75lbs, then last one to 80lbs.
easy as that. i was confused at first, then i posted here and got my answer. then i double checked and called arp
I found this on an other post
What do you use to torque down the studs to 19lbs.?
Its just hand tight with the moly lube; Than put the head on, supplied washer, torque the bolts with the supplied moly lube.
wrong. i jsut installed mine and i was having second doubts but i called arp and they gave me directions:
1. clean both sides of studs
2. *** the moly lube to the bottom
3. hand tight the studs 7lbs., preload or tighten with allen wrench
4. install the head gasket, then the head
5. add moly lobe to top of the stud
6. install the washer and nut
7. follow factory sequence to 25lbs, then 50lbs, then 75lbs, then last one to 80lbs.
easy as that. i was confused at first, then i posted here and got my answer. then i double checked and called arp
I found this on an other post
the first and last time i used a craftsman torque wrench, at the end of the day the locking nut that is located on the bottom of the handle used for calibration of the wrench fell off one night of a 5 lug conversion + tein installation.
i will not buy another craftsman torque wrench unless it has been tested right in front of me... also throughout all this i found out that craftsman doesn't warentee the torque wrenches.
i will not buy another craftsman torque wrench unless it has been tested right in front of me... also throughout all this i found out that craftsman doesn't warentee the torque wrenches.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by visi0n »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the first and last time i used a craftsman torque wrench, at the end of the day the locking nut that is located on the bottom of the handle used for calibration of the wrench fell off one night of a 5 lug conversion + tein installation.
i will not buy another craftsman torque wrench unless it has been tested right in front of me... also throughout all this i found out that craftsman doesn't warentee the torque wrenches.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea,Sears will warrantee it,but it has to befrom within a year of purchase,and most likely also,they will have a new style by the time the year warranty is up,so of course,they wouldnt want to trade your old style wrnech for the newer one.....bastards
i will not buy another craftsman torque wrench unless it has been tested right in front of me... also throughout all this i found out that craftsman doesn't warentee the torque wrenches.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea,Sears will warrantee it,but it has to befrom within a year of purchase,and most likely also,they will have a new style by the time the year warranty is up,so of course,they wouldnt want to trade your old style wrnech for the newer one.....bastards



