Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude?
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From: West Valley City, UT, USA
Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude?
I'm curious to know if anyone has had luck changing the front ASB on a 4th gen. 'Lude. I'm staying in stock next year (thank you, SEB! ), and I'm after a trophy.
1995 VTEC; Current setup = Koni yellows all around + Victoracers (likely 225-45/15 up front, 205-50/15 rear...may decide to stick with 205-50 all around) + K&N.
I'm thinking about a new bar to stiffen the front, but I'm not sure what size to do. 24mm standard, right? How about going to 27 or so? Ideas?
TIA!
-Mike
1995 VTEC; Current setup = Koni yellows all around + Victoracers (likely 225-45/15 up front, 205-50/15 rear...may decide to stick with 205-50 all around) + K&N.
I'm thinking about a new bar to stiffen the front, but I'm not sure what size to do. 24mm standard, right? How about going to 27 or so? Ideas?
TIA!
-Mike
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Re: Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude? (L8ApexH22)
That kinda goes in the opposite direction of how people typically setup fwd Honda's. Everything else being the same, you're increasing the tendency to push/understeer by going with a bigger front bar.
Most will go with a larger rear bar and either keep stock/remove the front. Since Stock class rules only lets you change the front there's not much you can do. I can't remember if it says change or change/remove front or not. If it is the latter you may want to experiment with no front bar (disconnecting the endlinks is a quick way you can do it between runs, you may need some way to cinch up the bar).
I never liked that Stock sway bar rule, since it seemed like it was written in a time of RWD cars only. It really should be RWD gets to change front, FWD gets to change rear.
Modified by XrcR6 at 8:11 PM 10/31/2003
Most will go with a larger rear bar and either keep stock/remove the front. Since Stock class rules only lets you change the front there's not much you can do. I can't remember if it says change or change/remove front or not. If it is the latter you may want to experiment with no front bar (disconnecting the endlinks is a quick way you can do it between runs, you may need some way to cinch up the bar).
I never liked that Stock sway bar rule, since it seemed like it was written in a time of RWD cars only. It really should be RWD gets to change front, FWD gets to change rear.
Modified by XrcR6 at 8:11 PM 10/31/2003
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From: hop,skip, and a jump from the city,, new friggin york, USA
Re: Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude? (XrcR6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XrcR6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> you're increasing the tendency to push/understeer by going with a bigger front bar.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ditto. leave the front bar alone.
if you are still insistant on spending money, sponsor me
ditto. leave the front bar alone.
if you are still insistant on spending money, sponsor me
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Re: Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude? (rodney)
ah, a thread where i'm again the minority.
change the front swaybar. find the _biggest_ front bar you can find. if the car develops some understeer from it, fine. run 225 tires up front and 205 out back, and if it still doesn't rotate enough use some rear toe out.
why do i say to use a bigger front bar? it's faster then removing the front swaybar. in stock class you can't change the rear bar or the spring rates. in the lude, you can't even get more camber in stock class.
yet, the front tires are the limiting factor in available cornering force on any fwd car. and too a greater degree, the outside front. taking away front roll stiffness will increase the amount of grip that the inside front can generate, but if the outside front has rolled past the point where it can generate grip, what have you accomplished? you now can generate tons of grip with your inside front, but since the car ain't turnin', you don't need any grip there. if you aren't optimizing your front tires, you're going slow. in this case, optimizing your front tires means compromising grip from your inside front.
also, in a stock class car without a front swaybar you'll be picking up the inside rear really high. roll the car, raise the car, raise the cg, increase weight transfer, roll more, raise car more, raise cg more, increase weight transfer some more. the circle will continue until you've reached a point where the amount of weight you've transferred has reduced grip so much that it really doesn't matter if the car rotates well. it's still going god aweful slow.
fyi, the HS si hatchback that won the pro-solo finale this year was running a bigger then stock front swaybar and droop limiters in the shocks. (they were functional too, you could see the inside front get snatched off the ground when the car hit bumps mid corner) the owner removed the droop limiters for the national championship and finished 15th. draw your own conclusions there.
nate
change the front swaybar. find the _biggest_ front bar you can find. if the car develops some understeer from it, fine. run 225 tires up front and 205 out back, and if it still doesn't rotate enough use some rear toe out.
why do i say to use a bigger front bar? it's faster then removing the front swaybar. in stock class you can't change the rear bar or the spring rates. in the lude, you can't even get more camber in stock class.
yet, the front tires are the limiting factor in available cornering force on any fwd car. and too a greater degree, the outside front. taking away front roll stiffness will increase the amount of grip that the inside front can generate, but if the outside front has rolled past the point where it can generate grip, what have you accomplished? you now can generate tons of grip with your inside front, but since the car ain't turnin', you don't need any grip there. if you aren't optimizing your front tires, you're going slow. in this case, optimizing your front tires means compromising grip from your inside front.
also, in a stock class car without a front swaybar you'll be picking up the inside rear really high. roll the car, raise the car, raise the cg, increase weight transfer, roll more, raise car more, raise cg more, increase weight transfer some more. the circle will continue until you've reached a point where the amount of weight you've transferred has reduced grip so much that it really doesn't matter if the car rotates well. it's still going god aweful slow.
fyi, the HS si hatchback that won the pro-solo finale this year was running a bigger then stock front swaybar and droop limiters in the shocks. (they were functional too, you could see the inside front get snatched off the ground when the car hit bumps mid corner) the owner removed the droop limiters for the national championship and finished 15th. draw your own conclusions there.
nate
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From: Shiny side up dammit, MO
Re: Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude? (WRXRacer111)
*gasp* i agree with nate 
i had pretty good results at nationals with the largest front bar we could find on the front of the ITR. that car was unstoppable in the slalom/quick transition dept.
also, some more compression valving in the rear can do wonders for dialing out understeer.
and i would totally suggest running the 225/205 stagger regardless. it works wonders on the DS ITR's
i had pretty good results at nationals with the largest front bar we could find on the front of the ITR. that car was unstoppable in the slalom/quick transition dept.
also, some more compression valving in the rear can do wonders for dialing out understeer.
and i would totally suggest running the 225/205 stagger regardless. it works wonders on the DS ITR's
I forgot more about hondas then you will ever know....
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From: hop,skip, and a jump from the city,, new friggin york, USA
Re: Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude? (carl_aka_carlos)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by carl_aka_carlos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*gasp* i agree with nate </TD></TR></TABLE>
bah.... just throw supercharger on it and run SM..... then you can do what you want
</TD></TR></TABLE>bah.... just throw supercharger on it and run SM..... then you can do what you want
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Re: Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude? (Steppin Razor)
Add me to the list of bigger front bar is better believers. When I first started autox I ran a stock class 16V GTI. Someone convinced me at an autox that I should unbolt the front bar to reduce understeer. Of course that was someone running SP in a car that now would be ST. The car rolled unbelieveably and took forever in any transition. Went from the usual VW inside rear lift of 6"+ to 1ft+. People in my class that I usually beat by a second or more were way faster than me then. I never did that again.
With the limited camber of a stock class car, keeping the tire flatter to the road helps more than the weight reduction on the inside tire hurts.
The fast ACR Neons used stock bars with super stiff shock settings to go fast, but they had very short suspension travel and long bumpstops. You would need to know what to have custom valved shocks set to to try this.
My 86 RX-7, then C stock, was an understeering pig as far as basic balance went. Adding a bigger bar reduced understeer due to keeping the MacStrut front end closer to flat. Helped transitions a bunch too.
With the limited camber of a stock class car, keeping the tire flatter to the road helps more than the weight reduction on the inside tire hurts.
The fast ACR Neons used stock bars with super stiff shock settings to go fast, but they had very short suspension travel and long bumpstops. You would need to know what to have custom valved shocks set to to try this.
My 86 RX-7, then C stock, was an understeering pig as far as basic balance went. Adding a bigger bar reduced understeer due to keeping the MacStrut front end closer to flat. Helped transitions a bunch too.
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Re: Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude? (solo-x)
Well, I'm still thinking about doing it. You guys have reinforced what I've read and heard, so it seems like the right thing to do.
The 225 / 205 stagger didn't work for me with the V700's (major cording occurred), but with the Victos, I don't anticipate seeing that problem again.
This year's Nat's, I ran 1/16th toe out rear (each) with as much -camber as I could....and I sucked. Maybe next year, eh?
The 225 / 205 stagger didn't work for me with the V700's (major cording occurred), but with the Victos, I don't anticipate seeing that problem again.
This year's Nat's, I ran 1/16th toe out rear (each) with as much -camber as I could....and I sucked. Maybe next year, eh?
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Re: Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude? (Honda318dx)
IMO, I think you're better off not changing the stock bar. I would tune with the shocks and tire pressures. I suggest 50front/30 rear, then tune with shocks.
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Re: Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude? (Steppin Razor)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steppin Razor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I suggest 50front/30 rear, then tune with shocks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Already there. I generally run 50-54 psi front and 48-52 rear, depending on the surface (and how much rotation I want from the rear).
Shocks are Koni yellows, usually run at full stiff all around (every other SoloII, I'll back off the front or back to see what happens, but this car seems to like full stiff all around). I do probably need to have them custom valved for compression at some point, but I'm not there yet.
Yes, this is autocross. I'll be hitting the tracks (hopefully?) within the next two years. At that point, I'll have to learn a whole different mindset!
Already there. I generally run 50-54 psi front and 48-52 rear, depending on the surface (and how much rotation I want from the rear).
Shocks are Koni yellows, usually run at full stiff all around (every other SoloII, I'll back off the front or back to see what happens, but this car seems to like full stiff all around). I do probably need to have them custom valved for compression at some point, but I'm not there yet.
Yes, this is autocross. I'll be hitting the tracks (hopefully?) within the next two years. At that point, I'll have to learn a whole different mindset!
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Re: Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude? (L8ApexH22)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by L8ApexH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Shocks are Koni yellows, usually run at full stiff all around (every other SoloII, I'll back off the front or back to see what happens, but this car seems to like full stiff all around).</TD></TR></TABLE>
that reinforces my beleif that you need a bigger front swaybar. think about it. the stiffer shock settings are keeping the car flatter for a larger portion of the corner. ie, more grip.
nate
that reinforces my beleif that you need a bigger front swaybar. think about it. the stiffer shock settings are keeping the car flatter for a larger portion of the corner. ie, more grip.
nate
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Re: Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude? (L8ApexH22)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by L8ApexH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Already there. I generally run 50-54 psi front and 48-52 rear, depending on the surface (and how much rotation I want from the rear). </TD></TR></TABLE>
Pressures in the rear seem kind of high, how did you arrive at those? I know a GS Prelude Si driver on Victoracers that runs (at least did last season. Couldn't run race tires this year.) 50/25, also equipped with Koni Yellows.
Already there. I generally run 50-54 psi front and 48-52 rear, depending on the surface (and how much rotation I want from the rear). </TD></TR></TABLE>
Pressures in the rear seem kind of high, how did you arrive at those? I know a GS Prelude Si driver on Victoracers that runs (at least did last season. Couldn't run race tires this year.) 50/25, also equipped with Koni Yellows.
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Re: Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude? (autoxsol)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by autoxsol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Solo-X does make sense though.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
amazing, isn't it?
amazing, isn't it?
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Re: Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude? (Steppin Razor)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steppin Razor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Pressures in the rear seem kind of high, how did you arrive at those? I know a GS Prelude Si driver on Victoracers that runs (at least did last season. Couldn't run race tires this year.) 50/25, also equipped with Koni Yellows.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what's it matter if one driver likes high rear tire pressures and another likes low rear tire pressures? the end result is the same, the feel is just different. personally, i don't like mushy, soft, "blah" happening at either end of the car.
nate
Pressures in the rear seem kind of high, how did you arrive at those? I know a GS Prelude Si driver on Victoracers that runs (at least did last season. Couldn't run race tires this year.) 50/25, also equipped with Koni Yellows.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what's it matter if one driver likes high rear tire pressures and another likes low rear tire pressures? the end result is the same, the feel is just different. personally, i don't like mushy, soft, "blah" happening at either end of the car.
nate
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Re: Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude? (Steppin Razor)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steppin Razor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Pressures in the rear seem kind of high, how did you arrive at those? I know a GS Prelude Si driver on Victoracers that runs (at least did last season. Couldn't run race tires this year.) 50/25, also equipped with Koni Yellows.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Basically, it's just the point where I can get lift oversteer when I want a little. I use lower pressures when I need the rear to stay put (rain, super-slick asphalt that's just been sealcoated), but for the most part, the pressures I listed put the car right at the edge of swinging around, so if I want, I just pop off the go-pedal and get a quick little direction change. I don't do it much, really.
Pressures in the rear seem kind of high, how did you arrive at those? I know a GS Prelude Si driver on Victoracers that runs (at least did last season. Couldn't run race tires this year.) 50/25, also equipped with Koni Yellows.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Basically, it's just the point where I can get lift oversteer when I want a little. I use lower pressures when I need the rear to stay put (rain, super-slick asphalt that's just been sealcoated), but for the most part, the pressures I listed put the car right at the edge of swinging around, so if I want, I just pop off the go-pedal and get a quick little direction change. I don't do it much, really.
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Re: Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude? (solo-x)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what's it matter if one driver likes high rear tire pressures and another likes low rear tire pressures?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It doesn't. I was just thrown because the driver I mentioned has a lot of prelude experience and is a very good driver + having tested out pressures on my prelude, I had the same results (only much slower ). I get curious when I see a setup so different so I can think through whether I should take another look at mine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the end result is the same, the feel is just different. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The feel is different, but I wouldn't say the end result is the same. It can be, but different setups for the same driver probably won't yield the same results.
I personally try(the operative word) to never have to lift off throttle once I'm on it, but I'm glad I found out one way to tune it in if I ever need to.
what's it matter if one driver likes high rear tire pressures and another likes low rear tire pressures?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It doesn't. I was just thrown because the driver I mentioned has a lot of prelude experience and is a very good driver + having tested out pressures on my prelude, I had the same results (only much slower
). I get curious when I see a setup so different so I can think through whether I should take another look at mine.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the end result is the same, the feel is just different. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The feel is different, but I wouldn't say the end result is the same. It can be, but different setups for the same driver probably won't yield the same results.
I personally try(the operative word) to never have to lift off throttle once I'm on it, but I'm glad I found out one way to tune it in if I ever need to.
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Re: Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude? (Steppin Razor)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steppin Razor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The feel is different, but I wouldn't say the end result is the same.</TD></TR></TABLE>
how is the end result not the same? a tire has 1 ideal pressure based on verticle load, lateral load, rim width, camber, etc. go above or below that and you reduce grip. reduce rear grip and the car is "looser". ergo, high pressure or low pressure (in relation to optimal) nets the same result, but with a different "feel".
do NOT get caught in the "he's fast and does it this way, so if i do it that way i should be fast too!" mentality. you _must_ find what works for you. example: locally, i'm pretty damn fast. however, my car is setup completely bass ackwards from what every other person setting up an sts civic is doing. other's have tried to copy my setup and have gone slower as a result. the point? what works for me will not always work for someone else. so just because someone is doing something different from you doesn't mean it's 100% right or wrong. if there was only one "right" way to setup a car, everyone would have the same setup.
something i've found to help when taking advice from others. if the person offering the advice can't develop a logical argument based in sound analysis of physics, their theory should be tossed immediately. the "it's faster" argument won't cut it. this requires a basic understanding of vehicle dynamics on your part. there are a lot of trade-offs in suspension tuning and intelligent people can have differing opinions of which compromise is better.
nate
how is the end result not the same? a tire has 1 ideal pressure based on verticle load, lateral load, rim width, camber, etc. go above or below that and you reduce grip. reduce rear grip and the car is "looser". ergo, high pressure or low pressure (in relation to optimal) nets the same result, but with a different "feel".
do NOT get caught in the "he's fast and does it this way, so if i do it that way i should be fast too!" mentality. you _must_ find what works for you. example: locally, i'm pretty damn fast. however, my car is setup completely bass ackwards from what every other person setting up an sts civic is doing. other's have tried to copy my setup and have gone slower as a result. the point? what works for me will not always work for someone else. so just because someone is doing something different from you doesn't mean it's 100% right or wrong. if there was only one "right" way to setup a car, everyone would have the same setup.
something i've found to help when taking advice from others. if the person offering the advice can't develop a logical argument based in sound analysis of physics, their theory should be tossed immediately. the "it's faster" argument won't cut it. this requires a basic understanding of vehicle dynamics on your part. there are a lot of trade-offs in suspension tuning and intelligent people can have differing opinions of which compromise is better.
nate
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Re: Front Anti-sway bar for AX 'Lude? (solo-x)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how is the end result not the same? a tire has 1 ideal pressure based on verticle load, lateral load, rim width, camber, etc. go above or below that and you reduce grip. reduce rear grip and the car is "looser". ergo, high pressure or low pressure (in relation to optimal) nets the same result, but with a different "feel".</TD></TR></TABLE>
First, I meant a different end result than you did - I meant the end result in seconds on the timer. Also, a tire has one ideal pressure based on verticle load, lateral load, rim width, camber, etc. for a specific turn, not all turns. Plus camber changes during the turn, making any pressure not ideal for long. Going above or below that does indeed reduce grip, but how it does it is important.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do NOT get caught in the "he's fast and does it this way, so if i do it that way i should be fast too!" mentality. you _must_ find what works for you. example: locally, i'm pretty damn fast. however, my car is setup completely bass ackwards from what every other person setting up an sts civic is doing. other's have tried to copy my setup and have gone slower as a result. the point? what works for me will not always work for someone else. so just because someone is doing something different from you doesn't mean it's 100% right or wrong. if there was only one "right" way to setup a car, everyone would have the same setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Of course, I didn't say he should do it that way just because someone's fast doing it that way. In fact I run my rears higher than the prelude driver I mentioned because I felt it was simply too loose. I've played with my tire pressures up and down, tried a few other things, etc. But I got a good idea of where to start by asking a fast, experienced driver and then adjusted from there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">something i've found to help when taking advice from others. if the person offering the advice can't develop a logical argument based in sound analysis of physics, their theory should be tossed immediately. the "it's faster" argument won't cut it. this requires a basic understanding of vehicle dynamics on your part. there are a lot of trade-offs in suspension tuning and intelligent people can have differing opinions of which compromise is better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a pretty good grasp of dynamics, read the books etc. I'm by no means the smartest or most knowledgeable and still learning. I could've described why to set the pressures that way, but I assumed L8ApexH22 already knew the why, and assumed that if he didn't, he would ask.
how is the end result not the same? a tire has 1 ideal pressure based on verticle load, lateral load, rim width, camber, etc. go above or below that and you reduce grip. reduce rear grip and the car is "looser". ergo, high pressure or low pressure (in relation to optimal) nets the same result, but with a different "feel".</TD></TR></TABLE>
First, I meant a different end result than you did - I meant the end result in seconds on the timer. Also, a tire has one ideal pressure based on verticle load, lateral load, rim width, camber, etc. for a specific turn, not all turns. Plus camber changes during the turn, making any pressure not ideal for long. Going above or below that does indeed reduce grip, but how it does it is important.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do NOT get caught in the "he's fast and does it this way, so if i do it that way i should be fast too!" mentality. you _must_ find what works for you. example: locally, i'm pretty damn fast. however, my car is setup completely bass ackwards from what every other person setting up an sts civic is doing. other's have tried to copy my setup and have gone slower as a result. the point? what works for me will not always work for someone else. so just because someone is doing something different from you doesn't mean it's 100% right or wrong. if there was only one "right" way to setup a car, everyone would have the same setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Of course, I didn't say he should do it that way just because someone's fast doing it that way. In fact I run my rears higher than the prelude driver I mentioned because I felt it was simply too loose. I've played with my tire pressures up and down, tried a few other things, etc. But I got a good idea of where to start by asking a fast, experienced driver and then adjusted from there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">something i've found to help when taking advice from others. if the person offering the advice can't develop a logical argument based in sound analysis of physics, their theory should be tossed immediately. the "it's faster" argument won't cut it. this requires a basic understanding of vehicle dynamics on your part. there are a lot of trade-offs in suspension tuning and intelligent people can have differing opinions of which compromise is better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a pretty good grasp of dynamics, read the books etc. I'm by no means the smartest or most knowledgeable and still learning. I could've described why to set the pressures that way, but I assumed L8ApexH22 already knew the why, and assumed that if he didn't, he would ask.
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From the ALIEN himself
here's a post about shocks and tire pressures by Daddio in one of the neon forums.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mark Daddio »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess I will chime in here and explain a bit on the tire pressure thing. The reality of it is that tire pressure affects different stages of cornering in different ways. My suggestion to Bob was to raise up the rear tire pressures, and lower the rebound in the rear struts. He was complaining that the back was unstable going into corners, but still was experiencing mid corner push. The raising of rear tire pressures (within reason ~60psi max) will make the car more stable on corner entries, but provide a little less grip once the car takes a set allowing for better mid corner rotation. For transitional stability, you want to run less rebound in the rear struts. This allows the car to transition through slaloms without wanting to swap ends. Bob can probably give his opinion on whether or not this result was achieved or not. Hopefully that clarifies why I made those changes to his car.
Mark</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mark Daddio »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess I will chime in here and explain a bit on the tire pressure thing. The reality of it is that tire pressure affects different stages of cornering in different ways. My suggestion to Bob was to raise up the rear tire pressures, and lower the rebound in the rear struts. He was complaining that the back was unstable going into corners, but still was experiencing mid corner push. The raising of rear tire pressures (within reason ~60psi max) will make the car more stable on corner entries, but provide a little less grip once the car takes a set allowing for better mid corner rotation. For transitional stability, you want to run less rebound in the rear struts. This allows the car to transition through slaloms without wanting to swap ends. Bob can probably give his opinion on whether or not this result was achieved or not. Hopefully that clarifies why I made those changes to his car.
Mark</TD></TR></TABLE>
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