As some of you may know i've been debating whether to keep my GSR rods and send them to get balanced or even simply buying some JDM ITR rods,,,they will be going on a b18c1 block with JDM ITR o/s pistons (.25mm), GSR crank, GSR stock head and oem 3 layer gasket. What really surprises me is that the machine shop is willing to GUARANTEE (sp?) MY ENTIRE BLOCK in case that the failure is caused because of the rods.
Now, we all know that the rods can be 'the' weaklink in a built motor...but being that the c/r will stay at about 11.7:1 i may be ready to take their offer and just go with the balanced GSR rods.
Just wanted to know wot ur guys input on this issue is... are there any other mods (i've already taken into account ARP bolts ) that I should consider for my setup?

 

the rods are not likely to fail, but the ROD BOLTS are likely to fail.
they are the main item prone to stretch.
a balanced set of four GSR rods would be then identical to an oem set of ITR rods.

 

i thought itr rods are slightly lighter and stronger than gsr..

 

here we go again

 

fawk.
ITR rods are lighter....

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=622875

just for a lil more verification

 

At this stage of the gane the GSR rods have been balanced and the whole block is ready to be assembled...my block looks like its brand new ...i also talked to my mechanic about ARP bolts and he said that the difference b/ween the GSR vs ARP is that the ARP are made of a different material and may be lighter but they are NOT stronger than the GSR rod bolts...any of you guys ever heard this coment before? He DOES NOT suggest that I use ARP rod bolts, furthermore, my c/r will be more like 11.8-9:1...i plan to run on 98 ron untuned with a stock GSR head...wots your guys input?

 

I disagree and in fact am waiting to re-hone my block until a set of ARP rod bolts get here,
I wanted ARP rod bolts, since OEM rod bolts are the cause of failure above 9000 rpm more often than the rods themselves... the bolts stretch which causes a change in the size of the big end of the rod and makes the bearing not seat properly which then leads to failure of the rod, but it can usually be tracved back to the rodBOLT failing (strethcing) first... yikes

 

I might speak to him tomorow then and ask him to find how much a set of 9mm ARP bolts cost here (Australia) thanks for your help guys cant wait to get my car back

 

a verbal guarantee from a shop is worthless. he could guarantee that for the time that it runs, that you are satisfied, or if not, that you should be, since it runs. for it to hold any weight you need a notarized written receipt with a signed warranty explicitly stating that if there is any damage due to rod-related problems, that he will cover the total cost of the damaged parts and/or labor to rebuild you the same engine configuration- i doubt that he'll agree to it. if you mis-shift, over-rev, stretch the bolts, snap a rod, and send it through the side of the block, if he signs such a document prior, legally he has to cover everything. i don't know of any place which offers anything remotely close. when in doubt, "overbuild." you'll either spend a little more now, or risk spending a lot more time and $ later. good luck.

 

don't use ARP rod bolts??
Thats bad advice, I'd use ARP for everything where any kind of long term stress is seen.

 

Don't the ARP rod bolts have to be stretched?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -KangaRod- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't use ARP rod bolts??
Thats bad advice, I'd use ARP for everything where any kind of long term stress is seen.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just spoke to my mechanic again and he said that I can always install ARP rod bolts once i do my cylinder head which is not going to be too far away but the other thing he said which im not sure about is that GSR rod bolts are the same to ITR rod bolts...now i've done a bit of homework and they're both two completely different numbers
*ITR (AUDM 2002 model): 13204p73jo1
*GSR (AUDM model 1995): 13204p72003
Now these are AUDM models so it might be different for the JDM engine which is the one that i've got.
Now the question is does anyone know whether jdm b18c1 rod bolts are the same/different to jdm b18c5 rod bolts? The reason i want to know is that there seem to be a lot of people running ITR bottom ends to 9500rpm with the stock rods/bolts. SORRY IF THIS SOUNDS CONFUSING ITS TOO EARLY IN THE MORNING DOWN HERE