i thought i'd get your opinion on the matter... not sure what most people are doing... if they're going to 16" (standard now on '04s) or straight to 17"...

your thoughts on the different tire sizes available...?

most of your 17"s 205/45R17s?
thanks...
dc

 

03 si
17" ,215/45/17
DROP the car first. ep stock is awful. freaking ready to off road.

 

you kno konig makes a nice set of wheels .. imatation of the Advan RG.. just not available in the gold color... its called konig traffik or something like that but those would look nice in 17''s

 

I like the looks of the Buddy Club P1's on the ep3. 16" or 17".. I'd go w/the above tire size as well. Maybe a little wider though.

 

I'm gonna stick with 15's and get a fatty tire, something like a 225/45/15. I would get 16's so I could run some 215/45 Azenis, I love those tires

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dciccare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i thought i'd get your opinion on the matter... not sure what most people are doing... if they're going to 16" (standard now on '04s) or straight to 17"...

your thoughts on the different tire sizes available...?

most of your 17"s 205/45R17s?
thanks...
dc</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you want performacne ....get some 15x7 or 15x7.5's with some good rubber ....

If you want looks, and dont care about your car getting slower ...then get some 17x7's .17x7.5 ,wont make a difference ....

 

yeah it really depends on how you drive and what is more important to you. i am running 215-45-17 on my 17x7 work emotions with a 42mm offset. i am lowered on progress springs and there is no rubbing.

 

I have 17 inch motegi MR8's dropped on progress springs....i need the ctr rear sway and front strut bar and nuspeed underbrace and the rest of the braces that are available for even better backroad handaling

the 17's do ride very stiff, but i like a rough ride hahhahah

other than that, if i had a choice on the wheels i would of gotten 15 inch rota slips, but my si came off the showroom floor with the wheels for 2 grand extra...it was a good idea to buy it like that then and incorporate the extra cost into the monthly bill.

anyway, whatever floats your boat man....just dont rice out your EP for the sake of JDM enthusiasts hahahaha

 

thanks for the input... don't worry, no rice here...
i think i'm even more confused now...
civicvtec1ps: what are your lowering specs...? what
voids warranty on lowering anyway (just about
anything i bet)...?
dc

 

It will just void whatever is related to your springs. (suspension) Should not void anything else.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tsunami_zc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you want performacne ....get some 15x7 or 15x7.5's with some good rubber ....

If you want looks, and dont care about your car getting slower ...then get some 17x7's .17x7.5 ,wont make a difference ....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wouldnt you want 16 or 17" rims for autox? So you have a shorter sidewall.

 

Honda still hasnt honored my warranty claims on my transmission, clutch pedal noise and gas pedal sqeak.......i gave up on there warranty crap!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicvtec1ps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">03 si
17" ,215/45/17
DROP the car first. ep stock is awful. freaking ready to off road.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're totally right. Ep's ride way too high stock and look far better when dropped about 1.75"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dciccare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the input... don't worry, no rice here...
i think i'm even more confused now...
civicvtec1ps: what are your lowering specs...? what
voids warranty on lowering anyway (just about
anything i bet)...?
dc</TD></TR></TABLE>
i have tein s tech springs. 215/45/17/
who cares about warranty these days. dealers are ghey period.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darkvibe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Wouldnt you want 16 or 17" rims for autox? So you have a shorter sidewall.</TD></TR></TABLE>

bigger rims = slower acceleration = slower times in auto-x
big side walls aren't that big of deal, u can always inflate the tires more to reduce rolling

16 is the absolute max i'd ever use for my civic, but i'm really happy w/ my 15s, wouldn't even mind 14s since azenis only cost about 40-50 bucks for them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ep hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bigger rims = slower acceleration = slower times in auto-x
big side walls aren't that big of deal, u can always inflate the tires more to reduce rolling</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, bigger sidewalls do make a difference. If you have a small wheel for auto-x and a big thick tire, the sidewalls are gonna have a bunch of flex, which obviously defeats the purpose of good springs, strut bars, etc. If you just inflate the tires to a higher pressure then it's gonna take your tires out of their optimal pressure range and give you a smaller, narrower contact patch. Also, about the "bigger rims = slower acceleration = slower times," that's not always true. When you get into huge-***, heavy rims it is very true, but if you get a really light 17 or even 18 then it's not really going to hurt you. It's not the weight of the wheel that hurts a big wheel, it's the unsprung weight. When you get a bigger wheel, it puts the weight farther out and makes it almost like a lever on a fulcrum. Think of the distance from the center of the wheel to the outer edge as teh section which the object is sitting on, and the driveshaft (and energy coming from it) as the section you are pushing down on and applying energy to. If you have a long section to push down on and a short section which the object is sitting on, it's easy to lift. If you have a short section to push down on and a long section which the object is sitting on, it's much harder to lift. That might seem a little confusing, but if you get it then it should explain it. I can't remember who it was, but one of the big companies like volk or advan or one of them did a big test on wheel size and found that when it comes to unsprung weight, a 17" wheel is the best it gets: the weight is placed in exactly the right spots for optimal acceleration, braking, etc.. So actually, you can gain a lot by going on up to a 17, and also have a much stiffer sidewall than with a 15 or 16. I know I'm a noob here, but I've been around WRX guys who know A TON about cars for the past year or so and I've learned a lot from them. Hope I helped.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sspicollo8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when it comes to unsprung weight, a 17" wheel is the best it gets: the weight is placed in exactly the right spots for optimal acceleration, braking, etc.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Absolute horseshit. Polar moment of inertia - the further something away is from the center, the harder (requires more force) it is to rotate.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So actually, you can gain a lot by going on up to a 17, and also have a much stiffer sidewall than with a 15 or 16. I know I'm a noob here, but I've been around WRX guys who know A TON about cars for the past year or so and I've learned a lot from them. Hope I helped. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Alot of WRX guys move to 17" wheels for tire fitment. Not many sticky 225/45/16 tires, but alot more 225/45/17. The size works very well for the car. Its not because they accelerate better.

And the difference in sidewall stiffness is going to be nominal. Even with "only" a 205/50/15, a 50-series sidewall isnt mush. And sidewall heigh is an aspect ratio - so a 205/50/15 and a 225/45/17 has exactly the same sidewall height (4").

 

Honda forums suck.
Go try to share some information with people and the first reply you get is a flame saying that every bit of it is bullshit.

Oh well. I'll go back and talk to all the dumbass WRX owners that don't know what they're talking about now.

 

That was hardly a flame.

But its not a good idea to spread misinformation that some people will take as gospel. I never said WRX owners dont know what they're talking about either, i'm friends with several. Either someone's led you astray, or you're posting on wrxfanatics.com.

 

By buddy with a black EP has 15" Rota Circuit 10 (MF10 Replicas) in Sport Bronze wrapped in Khumos (225/?) - he was shooting for the Nitto NT450s but around here they are just too hard to come by in stock. They look really really good. He might have some pics posted on EPhatch.com

 

Every application is different. All the honda guys who say 15" is better! 15s are for real racers" are no more correct than the peoplethat say 17s are always better
There are many factors, all of which are specific to you , your car, and your goals.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Buetang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I like the looks of the Buddy Club P1's on the ep3. 16" or 17".. I'd go w/the above tire size as well. Maybe a little wider though.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

These in 16" are exactly what I'd want. 215/45/16 Pure hotness