there is a trick to installing the BAR in the accords. I just cant remeber it.

this is the bar that runs paralle with the exhust and protects the oil pan from major collitions with larger rocks ect.

The bar has THREE 14mm bolts on one side & other end has only TWO 14mm bolts.


HOW do i re-install it? ...... if I match up one end the other end is about 1/2inch off one the other end of the BAR

 

Center beam. Bolts should line right up, no "trick." What kind of work were you doing? I would not drive 10 feet without that beam in place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is a trick to installing the BAR in the accords. I just cant remeber it.

this is the bar that runs paralle with the exhust and protects the oil pan from major collitions with larger rocks ect.

The bar has THREE 14mm bolts on one side & other end has only TWO 14mm bolts.


HOW do i re-install it? ...... if I match up one end the other end is about 1/2inch off one the other end of the BAR </TD></TR></TABLE>

There is NO trick to reinstalling this part. If you are having a problem getting it to line up then it is because your front (#3 in pic above) or rear beam (#2 in pic above) is bent.

 

thanks for the PIX
YEAH it's part # 1 in that diagram.
I was changing out my oil pan so i had to remove it. It came out nicely w/out any problems. I can asure you that the car has never been in any accident and its CLEAN. I simply took it off and re-installed it after i was done. I did not bend the bar or anything.

does it have to do anything with the suspension? I say that because i installed it with the FRONT end of the car jacked up. It might be that the car has to be leaveld or something like that. My brother inlaw who has a 95 accord ex has gone through 3 trannys and 4 clutchs in the past 6 years. He hates that bar and said that he can't remember how he put it back on cause he knows it was a BITCH.

I drove it 10-15 miles yesterday. the car feels fine. The only thing is that it seems to viberate more.... maybe it's just me.

 

There is absolutely no trick in reinstalling it. I can honestly tell you that I have only removed and replaced it while on a lift ... but I do not see why it would not go on easy being on a jack from the front.

I wish I could give you a better answer ... but I have never heard of anyone having this problem.

 

thanks guys anyone else??


<U>I did notice that my car viberates more when its Drive and I'm on the brakes. (i have and auto) But when in motion its fine. </U> The thing is that my car viberates all the way to the rear trunk/glass. I did change oil from 5-30 to 10-30 & I think I put a total of 4.75qt of oil in.

do you think too much oil and thicker oil would cause more viberation on the car/motor mounts?

 

I have removed and installed it with the front of the car jacked up with no problems at all. I've never heard of any problems. You might want to reinspect everything one more time

 

after you jack up the front, you put it on jackstands right? maybe putting it on jackstands will help relieve the stress. i think its all manipulation. gotta remember that the chassis flexes so try bolting one side loosely and bolt the other end just enough to get it started then tighten down all.

 

I've been there.

The bar you're talking about is the cross-member. It does protect the oil pan, but that's just a convenience. It's main property is it is a critical part of the chassis. How long has your car been on the jacks by the front ? If it has been this way for only a few hours, you are running big risks that your front end has bent, and this is why your cross-member won't go back into place right.

Imagine, the whole front end of the car, the whole weight of the car all the way to the rear axles are suspended on the front part (part#3), which when the cross-member is off, hangs the by the side structures, which, on Hondas are known to be the main structural weakness of the cars (which is why tower braces are so effective on Hondas). So basically, what you have when the crossmember is off is the front end wanting to hinge, making you end up with a front end bent upwards. You will see this by the lines of you fender and hood not aligning properly.

When you have to remove a cross-member, the best way to do it without bending the front end is by jacking the car by it's original brace points behind the front axles, get an engine crane and instead of putting the chain arount the block, put it around the whole front end (while protecting with cardboard) and hang the front end tightly <U>before</U> taking the cross-member off. This way your front end won't hinge downwards. This is especially critical when you have an engine in the bay. Once it's out, it becomes less of a problem, but still you might want to do it just for the sakes of prevention.

Edit: If this is your problem, the only thing I can imagine is put the stands on the reinforced points behind the fron taxles, and let the front end hang down until you can fit your cross-member back on.


Modified by sauceman at 4:30 AM 10/31/2003

 

DUDE where did you learn that!
it does make perfect sence though now that i think about it. Because when i took off those bolts it did kind of "decompress" some what and sprung off very sightly like there was pressure on both side of each ENDs of that cross bar.

My car was on 2 front jacks for about 12-14 hours MAX

My brother inlaw had his car up on front jacks for about 1 year and now his hood and fenders don't line up as well. The hood still closes but you can definaly see that it is leaned towards one side that the other.

So how should i put it back on?
a) drive it to my buddies shop and have the lift it up with a car lift (non roll on, but has 2 bars each side and you just match up to were the jack points are) then re-install it

b) jack up the car on all 4 corners with stands and bolt it on

c) jack up the front end with 2 stand
-get a engine hoist and slightly lift up the front end so that it can balance out the frame again............ if so where should I attach the chains too?

 

Okay, we all jack up the front of our cars. The placement of the jack stands isn't clear here. Did you put the jack stands behind the front tires (the normal place) or somewhere up front? I can't think of any place to rest jack stands forwards of the front wheels.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4doorH22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, we all jack up the front of our cars. The placement of the jack stands isn't clear here. Did you put the jack stands behind the front tires (the normal place) or somewhere up front? I can't think of any place to rest jack stands forwards of the front wheels.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well yes I put the stands on the right spot behind the front tires on both sides.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4doorH22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, we all jack up the front of our cars. The placement of the jack stands isn't clear here. Did you put the jack stands behind the front tires (the normal place) or somewhere up front? I can't think of any place to rest jack stands forwards of the front wheels.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Under normal circumstances there is no problem as long as the cross-member is bolted on, it keeps the front end from twisting. It's when you take it off that problems arise. And you can jack safely the car from the front byjacking on the cross-member at where it's bolted with the front support assembly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DUDE where did you learn that!
it does make perfect sence though now that i think about it. Because when i took off those bolts it did kind of "decompress" some what and sprung off very sightly like there was pressure on both side of each ENDs of that cross bar.

My car was on 2 front jacks for about 12-14 hours MAX

My brother inlaw had his car up on front jacks for about 1 year and now his hood and fenders don't line up as well. The hood still closes but you can definaly see that it is leaned towards one side that the other.

So how should i put it back on?
a) drive it to my buddies shop and have the lift it up with a car lift (non roll on, but has 2 bars each side and you just match up to were the jack points are) then re-install it

b) jack up the car on all 4 corners with stands and bolt it on

c) jack up the front end with 2 stand
-get a engine hoist and slightly lift up the front end so that it can balance out the frame again............ if so where should I attach the chains too? </TD></TR></TABLE>

It depends. If I got it right, you jacked it by the front in front of the wheels, or was it behind the wheels on the re-inforced mounting points?

If you jacked it in front of the wheels, options A and B would be okay, but you would want to let the front hang down until the mounting points align. One precaution you should take should be to use two jack stands lifted up to the point where the front end should rest on the stands if it were not bent. That way, if one side of the front lowers quicker, you won't have it lower down too much and the other side too little.

If you jacked it from the back of the wheels, option C would work, but it would be very risky that you will still end up with a crooked front. Let the front end rest on two jackstands placed to the extremities of part #3. Make sure you insert a 2X4 wood piece between the jackstand and part #3 in order to spread the weight, because this piece is not meant to be jacked.

Good luck!

PS, I know because I've been warned by a friend of mine who's a mechanic.

 

for clearifcation I jacked up the car IN THE FRONT where the tow hook is.......and then put the STANDS on the re-inforced mounting points on the right and left side behind the front wheel!!!!...... who wouldn't!

 

you know, the bar isn't needed at all really...not for rigidity (sp?) it just there to protect stuff...hence why the 92-93 GSR's didn't get it, because it added more weight then use...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GraphiteAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you know, the bar isn't needed at all really...not for rigidity (sp?) it just there to protect stuff...hence why the 92-93 GSR's didn't get it, because it added more weight then use... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Then why don't you do some weight reduction, take it off your car and come tell us in one week that everything's fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for clearifcation I jacked up the car IN THE FRONT where the tow hook is.......and then put the STANDS on the re-inforced mounting points on the right and left side behind the front wheel!!!!...... who wouldn't!

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok. Then you would want to put jack stands below the front part (part #3), with 2 jacks oil jacks supporting the reinfoced mounts behind the axles. Slowly let these jacks go down progressively and let the car weight lie on the front jack stands until you see the front end realigned letting you bolt up that cross-member.

Afterwards, have a on me.

 

This is certainly a rare problem because I or none of the other old-timers I know have had it or heard of it.
My best explanation would be someone ran over the beam when it was off the car and it's the beam itself that's bent or out of alignment.
If you haven't known the car since it rolled off the showroom floor, you can't ever be positive it hasn't been in a wreck.
I just can't believe a front end would deform at all (I've had that beam off at least 10 times in 2 years on 2 jackstands with no problems). Like someone else mentioned some Hondas don't even have them so the front ends must be pretty stout.
But anyway if somehow the front has flexed out of position, playing around with different jack points and allowing the car to settle should line up the holes.
My 0.02

 

solved it... it was off my like 3-4mm
what i did was get MAP gas and blow it untill i could slightly apply about 150lb of body weight pressure on it and slowly flex it.

I know its kinda ghetto but nothing bad at all and it should not affect the strenght of the steel buy much. Also there was a small but noticable DENT in the underside of the bar .... possibly causing it to BOW upwards in the middle.

Thanks honda-tech! I definaly learned something new today!