I have a JDM B16 1st gen, which I assume is an OBD0 right..?

Why do I hear people say a conversion to OBD1 is prefered...?

 

Because there is money to be made.
You have to buy a convertion harness, get a new distributor, injectors, etc.

The people who do it most often are california folks, who apparently cannot pass the emissions check over there with OBD0.
Something I doubt since ALL crxs are OBD0 and some of them do pass.
I would be willing to bet, that a CRX with a B16 with an OBD0 ECU (PR3/PWO),
a cat in good condition, prefferibly new, and no aftermarket air/fuel converters would pass emissions.

If you don't have to worry about emissions stuff, keep your OBD0. It is just as good as the OBD1 stuff.

 

IM doing it to run a P28 ECU to run my D15b, without any retarded piggy back computer.

 

Only if you want the new version of Hondata S...

 

theres tons more support tuning wise with OBD1; thats one of the main reasons i'm thinking considering the switch.

 

untrue, there is just as much support for oBd0, eeprom, ghettodyne, turboedit.. all free tuning software. and pretty easy to use
as suppose to AEM or Hondata which cost alot of money.. and bascially do the same thing

 

i did it cause the bearings in the pre obd dizzy's suck... and you can use the new dizzys with obd1

 

here is what I think.

I have a STD 91 hatch I upgraded to OBD1 to pass smog. I think its better then OBD0 because the dizzy issue. I mean OBD0 is great if you have like a Si or something just add vtec wires etc but for me I couldn't have made a better choice since I am in cali need smog. Its up to you if you have the wiring skills and trial and error time I say go for OBD1 or just stick with OBD0 if you'd like to keep it simple with little hassle to worry about.

 

there should be a step by step setup for this right? im thinking about droping a gsr soon in the rex and would like to see how freaking hard it is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The new Spaceballs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Because there is money to be made.
You have to buy a convertion harness, get a new distributor, injectors, etc.

The people who do it most often are california folks, who apparently cannot pass the emissions check over there with OBD0.
Something I doubt since ALL crxs are OBD0 and some of them do pass.
I would be willing to bet, that a CRX with a B16 with an OBD0 ECU (PR3/PWO),
a cat in good condition, prefferibly new, and no aftermarket air/fuel converters would pass emissions.

If you don't have to worry about emissions stuff, keep your OBD0. It is just as good as the OBD1 stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>

all 4g civics/crxs are obd0, but in order for cali ppl to pass smog, we have to pass emission and visual...although an obd0 b16 can be as clean as any other honda motor, it doesn't pass visual because it was never in any usdm honda until 94 which is why, if we want to be legit, we have to convert to a 94-spec (or 92-93 gsr spec) b16 (or b17). hey bossman, i just got some fin aid, will call u when my check clears...lol

 

I ran OBD-1 on my single cam vtec swapped CRX. I was running a chipped p28 with a semi built d16z6... I had it referee legal (you HAVE to run the same everything as the car it came from, you can't legally smog an obd0 b16 - since they came from japan. not to say people arent running around with them smogged, plenty of regular smog shops wont care)

Peace -

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CLICC916 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

all 4g civics/crxs are obd0, but in order for cali ppl to pass smog, we have to pass emission and visual...although an obd0 b16 can be as clean as any other honda motor, it doesn't pass visual because it was never in any usdm honda until 94 which is why, if we want to be legit, we have to convert to a 94-spec (or 92-93 gsr spec) b16 (or b17). hey bossman, i just got some fin aid, will call u when my check clears...lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

wierd, because i can pass visual but not sniffer at the local econolube

 

post by blown90hatch:

"Here is why people do it on the 88-91 cars:

Better electronics....has your distributor ever died
on you? The 1st gen B16a distributors always die.
The electronics are notorious for failing. Most
people who get my harness are running the D16z6 engine
and want to use the OBD1 P28 ecu that comes with it.
ALso, many people buy this harness so they can run the
Hondata standalone engine managment.

Smoother running car. The OBd1 uses the 4 wire O2
sensor. This and the better electronics make your car
firing smoother and run overall smoother. I have not
seen it make any power gains on a stock engine.
However, when I switched from OBd0-OBd1 on my boosted
EF, I made significant power overall. The dyno curve
was jumpy when I was OBd0 and then smoothened out when
I was OBD1.

For this conversion you will need: Harness, OBD1 ecu,
4 wire O2 sensor, and OBD1 distributor. After you
sell off your old stuff, you will be spending around
300-400 depending on what you get.

Asking whether it is worth it or not, you have to ask
what you goals for the car are."

 

I would assume the biggest advantage is the O2 sensor (for USDM OBD-1 Motors/electronics). The stock OBD-1 O2 sensor for a Z6 is very expensive, and because of this I'm assuming it's also very sensitive in giving accurate readings. This could attribute for smoother partial throttle operation, and cleaner emissions. I'm also assuming the OBD-1 ECU (i only care about the p28) also reacts slightly differently to various sensor readings than the OBD-0 PM6 does, this might also affect throttle response and emissions.

I'm converting to OBD-1 on my CRX. Right now I'm using a chipped PM6 ECU, and a V-AFC and an adjustable FPR for tuning. It's running pretty strong right now. So why am I converting? I really want to see firsthand if it will make any difference!!! Even if it doesn't, at least I'll know that I'll be using a newer dizzy & ecu that are less likely to burn out than my old obd-0 stuff... And also I will have better readings off my O2 sensor guage (i'm not using a cheapass autometer). Also, the P28 ECU will have fuel/timing maps that are designed for a SOHC VTEC motor - at least 2 seperate maps for vtec, like it's supposed to have, unlike the PM6.

I'll post a write-up on the improvements (if any) noted after I do the upgrade.

 

why not leave it obd 0 and get the pm6 reprogrammed to run vtec with one wire vtec operation? less headache, maybe even less expensive. available at http://www.zdyne.com under alter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The new Spaceballs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The people who do it most often are california folks, who apparently cannot pass the emissions check over there with OBD0.
Something I doubt since ALL crxs are OBD0 and some of them do pass.
I would be willing to bet, that a CRX with a B16 with an OBD0 ECU (PR3/PWO),
a cat in good condition, prefferibly new, and no aftermarket air/fuel converters would pass emissions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

True, all CRXs came stock with a pre-1992 ECU. But in the case of a stock CRX, it is running the proper ECU for the motor. Swapped motors are a different matter entirely. When an engine is swapped, it MUST run the proper ECU for that motor. And JDM motors are a completely different matter yet. For a JDM motor to be legal, it MUST run the USDM ECU. And since a pre-1992 B16A was not available in California, a JDM B16A MUST run a 1994-1995 USDM P30 ECU.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ecOnObOx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have not seen it make any power gains on a stock engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whether you are going to make more power with a newer ECU depends on the application. Generally speaking, you probably won't gain much (if any) power if the older ECU is already the proper one for the motor. This would be the case with using a P30 instead of pre-1992 PR3/PW0 for a B16A. But if the older ECU is NOT the proper one for the motor, you will gain varying amounts of power (depending on the application) by going with a newer ECU. Such situations include upgrading to a P28 from a PM6 on a D16Z6, upgrading from a pre-1992 PR4 to a P75 on a 1992+ LS or non-VTEC B20Z, and upgrading from a PR3/PW0 to a P72/P73 on a B18C1/B18C5 swap.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Guest500 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not leave it obd 0 and get the pm6 reprogrammed to run vtec with one wire vtec operation? less headache, maybe even less expensive. available at http://www.zdyne.com under alter.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The economics of modifying an older ECU vs using a newer one depends on several things. Perhaps the most important is whether you got the newer ECU with your motor. If you did, it is almost always cheaper to use the newer ECU. Especially if you can alter the wiring yourself and don't need to buy any adaptors. Even if you didn't get the newer ECU, it can STILL be more cost effective to use the newer ECU sicne using the older one means getting a new distributer. Just about the ONLY time it is more cost effective to use the older ECU is if you have no electronics for the engine.



Modified by StorminMatt at 8:34 AM 10/28/2003

 

about the O2 sensors, the 89-91 O2 sensors are much better than the OBD1. Sampling is faster...

 

I believe I saw something on pgmfi.org about people seeing better gas milage w/ OBD0 vs OBD1.

-Dustin