I hear so much crap about how all motor is more reliable and turbo makes more power and this is better than that is better then this... Lay it out straight with your opinions please... How hard is it to make a reliable 10psi motor that runs smooth, can run on pump gas, is a daily driver and wont blow up in a week (im runnin an H23 yes i know the ringlads suck thats why im resleeving and runnin pistons rods etc)... i might consider going all motor but on an H23... haha id either have to do a head swap or a motor swap... and for the money i could do a trbo setup... im partial to turbos but i need a vehicle i can rely on too... please help

 

h23 is better for turbo; all motor is hard to produce big hp number. if you get into the 200whp thats pretty solid

 

If you build it right the frist time and take the right precautions, And don't dog the **** out your car all the time and keep the boost at that level and don't turn it up. I could see an H23 build for a trubo running 10 lbs. daily being pretty good.
Its going to be hard once you feel the turbo kicking in its like a drug and get addicted to it and then you want more and turn up the boost and that one time you do and race. BOM, no more motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fly1865 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you build it right the frist time and take the right precautions, And don't dog the **** out your car all the time and keep the boost at that level and don't turn it up. I could see an H23 build for a trubo running 10 lbs. daily being pretty good.
Its going to be hard once you feel the turbo kicking in its like a drug and get addicted to it and then you want more and turn up the boost and that one time you do and race. BOM, no more motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's why you resleeve then turn up the boost

 

well us H-series got fucked lol... Its a closed deck so its a lil more solid then normal but they decided to FRM it so that we cant run aftermarket forged pistons to take care of the fucked up weak reinglands that break at 6-7psi... So sleeving is a necessity, not an option

 

This 'problem' is not just eclusive to the H series, you have to to do these same things with any honda motor if you plan to force induct, run forged pistons, etc...Even though there are open deck H-series motors they are by no means weak. B-series motors have rings that are just as 'weak' when running boost, as any honda motor was not designed with boost in mind.

 

yes well... do the B-sereis have to resleeve just to run forged pistons? cuz H-series do becasue of FRM

 

blah blah blah blah..... sounds to me like nothing but mis-information in this thread.....

 

how u figure?

 

seeing as how i have built both N/A and Turbo cars, in my experience the N/A car is more reliable. and no, i didnt half-*** build my turbo car either, its probably one of the more impresive setups anyone on this site has, it just hasnt been tuned, but thats b/c i have run into ohter issues that have caused me to delay that action

 

you dont have to resleeve b-series to run forged pistons. you dont need forged pistons to run 10 psi. its all about tuning. but 10 psi is max!. you never want to start at max. so resleeve, drop a shitload of mony, and be ready to boost 20+psi cause you will.

make sure you have another car to drive, if you dont it will suck. first ypou wont have a car. then you'll rush to get this done. then you'll **** something up. then you wont have a car for a long time. and then youll spend twice what you needed to spend.

and dont give the i wont do this and do that bullshit, cause i was that person 2 years ago.