how do i need to wire up the 4 wire o2 sensor? i know two of the wires wire up the same, but then 1 wire has to go to a ground and another to a power source...anyone have any info?

 

white wire goes to your current o2 sensor wire, the 2 blacks are grounds, the green is the heater which you can eirther wire on a switch.. or not use at all.. you can't give it hot all the time otherwise it will blow out the heating element or drain your battery.. you really don't need to use the heater tho, unless your in sub-zero climates all the time.. just let the car idle for a minute or so before you start hitting it hard.. all its gonna do is make it run really rich when its cold

 

the reason for a 4 wire o2 sensor is that its pre heated. running the heater wire not hooked up defeats the entire purpose.. this is also why on 92+ civics, the o2 sensor is located further down the manifold.. it is preheated so it doesnt need the heat from the exhaust ports to heat it up.

 

attachly no the sensor reads alot more accurate the the obd0 one wire sensors, at least according to my af ratio meter
and the one i pulled off was in the exact same spot as my 88, i pulled it off a 92 DX

 

White wire to current O2 lead
Splice the Green wire and one of the Black wires and connect to a common ground
Remaining black wire, connect to a switched power source. This makes the heater run only when your motor's running.

Here's a diagram. Follow/use step 3



Modified by EF_LSVtec at 11:45 PM 10/23/2003


Modified by EF_LSVtec at 11:46 PM 10/23/2003


Modified by EF_LSVtec at 11:46 PM 10/23/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF_LSVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">White wire to current O2 lead
Splice the Green wire and one of the Black wires and connect to a common ground
Remaining black wire, connect to a switched power source. This makes the heater run only when your motor's running.

Lemme know if you need a diagram.</TD></TR></TABLE>

email me a diagram please. email to drift2live@hotmail.com
thanks alot!

 

the heater isn't suppose to be on for more then a couple minutes, the ECU regulates it and doesn't even use it after the cars been on for more then 2 minutes.. keeping it on that long will just burn it out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JonGP4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the heater isn't suppose to be on for more then a couple minutes, the ECU regulates it and doesn't even use it after the cars been on for more then 2 minutes.. keeping it on that long will just burn it out</TD></TR></TABLE>

Doesnt that defeat the purpose of a heated O2? How can you burn an O2 when it's made to withstand heat?

 

not the o2 itself but the element that makes heat, the one thats in there isn't suppose to be on all the time.. if you don't know much about heating elements then its hard to explain.. and read farther up.. it reads more accurate!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JonGP4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the heater isn't suppose to be on for more then a couple minutes, the ECU regulates it and doesn't even use it after the cars been on for more then 2 minutes.. keeping it on that long will just burn it out</TD></TR></TABLE>
That isnt entirely true. While yes the ECU does regualte it and it obviously heats it up once you first start the car it also cycles continuesly while your driving. I mean the reason for a heated O2 besides it reading more accurately is for it to keep the O2 heated so when your on the Freeway or such and your getting all that air blowing on it it tends to cool down especially when its that far down in the exhaust.

I am needing to get myself a heated O2 cause I get a check engine light from mine once it cools off and when I do more stop and go type of driving it either goes off or doesnt come on if it was off in the first place.

So yes the heating element does kick in more than just once during start up. I know someone that put in a 4 wire cause he was having the same problem as me and he has his wired so it went on with the car and he hasnt had one problem and he had it like that for quite awhile. So no the heating element doesnt just burn up that quick either.

 

I replaced my 1 wire to a 4 wire O2 in October of last year and it's still good. My car's a daily driver and I've had about 20 AutoX events so far...knock on wood

 

ok...if i follow that diagram, how should i hook up the power wire? cuz its not suppose to receive power continuesly when the car is on right? it needs to go off after a few min...i just wanted to make sure the heater element doesn't go out on me. ef lsvtec...did you just connect it to a 12v power source so it stays on whenever you have the car running?

 

I did connect it to a switched power (ON while car is running)

 

hmm, Blown90hatcH's wiring diagram is completely different then what you guys are suggesting. i bought a conversion harness from him and on his diagram he had all the wires routed back into the ecu.

So the big question here is who is wiring it up like the factory.

 

the way i said is like factory, black wires are always ground! on honda's at least. Green is heater,12v, white is o2 to ECU

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drift2live &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm, Blown90hatcH's wiring diagram is completely different then what you guys are suggesting. i bought a conversion harness from him and on his diagram he had all the wires routed back into the ecu.

So the big question here is who is wiring it up like the factory.</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK most of the people listed how you would hook up a 4 wire O2 to an obd-0 car. You would wire it to the ECU if you had made your car obd-1 since then you will have the controls on the ECU to turn it on when necessary. Are you running obd-1? Cause if not running it to the ECU isnt going to do any good since there isnt anything on the ECU to tell the heater to turn on or off. There is always going to be at least one wire going to the ECU and that would be the same wire that is going to your 1 wire O2 sensor so your ECU gets the O2 readings. Otherwise if you were obd-1 you would have more wires going to the ECU since like I said earlier the ECU turns the heater on and off. So if you have obd-0 only 1 wire will be going to the ECU and if you have obd-1 I think its 2 out of the 4 wires go to the ECU. Dont quote me on that though but I do know that 1 of the wires is for the O2 reading (obviously) and the other is the power wire for the heater. Both the grounds might be chassis grounds but those are the ones I am not sure of on where they go on an obd-1 car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JonGP4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the way i said is like factory, black wires are always ground! on honda's at least. Green is heater,12v, white is o2 to ECU</TD></TR></TABLE>

you are right, your instruction are almost the same as Blown90hatcH's diagram, but can we have Blown90hatcH get involve in this thread.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drift2live &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm, Blown90hatcH's wiring diagram is completely different then what you guys are suggesting. i bought a conversion harness from him and on his diagram he had all the wires routed back into the ecu.

So the big question here is who is wiring it up like the factory.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have my harness, hook it up like my instructions say to do. Trust me. After 200+ OBD0-1 harnesses out there.....200+ of them are hooked up this way. If you are running an OBD1 ecu with my harness, follow the instructions.

 

Anyone know of a good place to splice the heated/electricity wire into from experience?

I know its supposed to be +12v and a switched power source so its only on when the engine is on.