What oil to use after rebuild?
I'd use Valvoline Maxlife, it has very good anti-friction additives and more zinc than most other oils. A few guys on here that knew way too much about oil recommended it.
I just used the normal 5-30. Cranked it over till I got pressure, turn it on, checked for leaks, then went out and mashed it
Holdin up fine...probably about 1000 miles so far. Perfect compression still
Holdin up fine...probably about 1000 miles so far. Perfect compression still
right after rebuild.... and first crank..... get a light oil..... cheap one..... 5-30 its good
after a week or 500 miles change the oil for 10-30 and not synthetic.,,,
our old engines seem not to like synthetic .... at least on my case......
after a week or 500 miles change the oil for 10-30 and not synthetic.,,,
our old engines seem not to like synthetic .... at least on my case......
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Go with penzoil or quaker State they are the same company they have the best additives for conventinal. Stay away from conventional Valvoline that includes maxlife. Those have the worst additives. And Ya Synthetic is cool for rebuilt engines like Mobil1 Valvoline Synpower and Castrol Synthetic. I would go with Mobil1 since its the only true Syntetic.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDM 4G VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">right after rebuild.... and first crank..... get a light oil..... cheap one..... 5-30 its good
after a week or 500 miles change the oil for 10-30 and not synthetic.,,,
our old engines seem not to like synthetic .... at least on my case......</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree, a cheap 5w-30 oil is what you should run right after a rebuild.
Right after a rebuild, I run the motor for 20 minutes and them promptly change the oil. Maybe its a bit over board, but I'd rather get all the possible loose crap out of the motor ASAP.
after a week or 500 miles change the oil for 10-30 and not synthetic.,,,
our old engines seem not to like synthetic .... at least on my case......</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree, a cheap 5w-30 oil is what you should run right after a rebuild.
Right after a rebuild, I run the motor for 20 minutes and them promptly change the oil. Maybe its a bit over board, but I'd rather get all the possible loose crap out of the motor ASAP.
This may be a bit OT, but I've been waiting to spread this around
If you have any questions about oil check this out: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html.
There is more info than most people will need on oils to make informed decisions.
Modified by 1st-hybrid at 11:31 AM 10/24/2003
Modified by 1st-hybrid at 11:34 AM 10/24/2003
If you have any questions about oil check this out: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html.
There is more info than most people will need on oils to make informed decisions.
Modified by 1st-hybrid at 11:31 AM 10/24/2003
Modified by 1st-hybrid at 11:34 AM 10/24/2003
I wouldn't say that site has more info than you'll ever need about motor oil... It says/compares nothing about synthetic motor oils.
But still nonetheless, a good informative website!
But still nonetheless, a good informative website!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrTodd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't say that site has more info than you'll ever need about motor oil... It says/compares nothing about synthetic motor oils.
But still nonetheless, a good informative website!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Valvoline Synthetic 146 465 -40 <1.5 .12
And a few others
But still nonetheless, a good informative website!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Valvoline Synthetic 146 465 -40 <1.5 .12
And a few others
10w 30 is fine. You can run synthetic from day one if you want. Every Porsche, Ferrari, Corvette, M3, etc made today leaves the assembly line with synthetic in the pan.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steve91 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">10w 30 is fine. You can run synthetic from day one if you want. Every Porsche, Ferrari, Corvette, M3, etc made today leaves the assembly line with synthetic in the pan.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just use the 5w30 Quaker State non-synth. that is meant to be in there.
Just use the 5w30 Quaker State non-synth. that is meant to be in there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicdriver91 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mobil1 since its the only true Syntetic. </TD></TR></TABLE>
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E Swift
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You're right - sorry, apparently I'm in '***' mode today, so I need to calm down.
