Transmission Pulling
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 105
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From: Resisting the rich in Boulder, CO, USA
Hi! I have been reading the prelude Honda Tech forums for a couple of weeks now and am very very impressed. You all know your stuff, so I thought I'd post a question and see if I could get some help. I just bought a 1993 2.3L Honda prelude Si, but it needs a new clutch and I plan on installing it myself. I have never done this on a honda, however. I was just wondering if anyone has any general advice on pulling the transmission, or if anyone knows of a link where I might find a step-by-step guide to this operation. I don't have access to a helms yet, you see. I am confident that with patience I can do this myself with no help at all, but in the name of efficiency and overall car safety, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
hope you have another car to use just in case you get stuck somewhere in the process. you will also want to change your rear main seal while your changing the clutch, it's a $12 part.
things to do:
remove lower dust shield if on
remove air intake
remove battery and tray
remove starter
drain oil from tranny
drain coolant from radiator(unhooking the hoses helps free up room)
unhook radiator hoses and fold them out of the way
remove radius rods
remove center beam underneath engine
remove axles
unhook the two VSS hoses that go the p/s
basically unhook any wire/vacuum hose that is in the way
unbolt the front engine mount and remove it
unbolt and remove the front crossmember-gives alot more wiggle room to work with
unhook the clutch slave cylinder and piping
unbolt the tranny-forgot the exact number but there's around 10 of them
remove tranny-it's around 100-120 lbs
unbolt pressure plate from flywheel-may need to brace the flywheel so it won't move
unbolt the flywheel
change the rear main seal around the crankshaft
now do everything in reverse order and add new fluids...and replace with new clutch.
i think the torque specs for the flywheel bolts are around 75 ft lbs, make sure you get that right!
i may have left something out, so if someone notices something just add it...
things to do:
remove lower dust shield if on
remove air intake
remove battery and tray
remove starter
drain oil from tranny
drain coolant from radiator(unhooking the hoses helps free up room)
unhook radiator hoses and fold them out of the way
remove radius rods
remove center beam underneath engine
remove axles
unhook the two VSS hoses that go the p/s
basically unhook any wire/vacuum hose that is in the way
unbolt the front engine mount and remove it
unbolt and remove the front crossmember-gives alot more wiggle room to work with
unhook the clutch slave cylinder and piping
unbolt the tranny-forgot the exact number but there's around 10 of them
remove tranny-it's around 100-120 lbs
unbolt pressure plate from flywheel-may need to brace the flywheel so it won't move
unbolt the flywheel
change the rear main seal around the crankshaft
now do everything in reverse order and add new fluids...and replace with new clutch.
i think the torque specs for the flywheel bolts are around 75 ft lbs, make sure you get that right!
i may have left something out, so if someone notices something just add it...
I might be pulling my trany this winter also. How much room do you need under the car to get it out? I don't have a lift, but I do have a very very large jack and stands. I should be able to get the lowest part of the car about 2 and 1/2 feet of the ground. Will that be enough room?
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
i haven't pulled an H series tranny yet, but jackstands were good enough to pull a b series tranny out when i took part in that little operation. i'm guess jackstands and a floorjack will be sufficient.
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Jackstands will work fine. You don't even need to think about pulling the motor this is a honda.... You can get away with only taking the intermediate shaft off and the passenger side axle, it's just a tight fit getting the driver side axle on and off. You don't need to drain your coolant and take off the lines, but I guess it could free up a little space, I wouldn't considerit worth it.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 105
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From: Resisting the rich in Boulder, CO, USA
Thank you SO much for the help. All I can say, though, is REMOVE BOTH ******* DRIVE AXLES! Man, I only took off the one, and it was such a bitch to get out, and putting it back in with the other axle still attached looks near impossible. I say save yourself a lot of trouble and take them both off. Again, thank you very, VERY much for the help
I've always wondered, how hard is it removing the rear main seal out? I couldn't get my front seal out when I was doing a t-belt job; it seemed that the seal was stuck in there good. What tool did you use?
BTW, good luck on the tranny job. That thing is heavy, and oolting it back up to the motor will be the hardest part. A tranny jack helps...
BTW, good luck on the tranny job. That thing is heavy, and oolting it back up to the motor will be the hardest part. A tranny jack helps...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Resisting the rich in Boulder, CO, USA
I haven't taken that seal out actually yet, but it seems pretty easy to just mildy pry out with a screw driver...I'm taking it apart tomorrow morning, so I will post any difficulties I have. And yes, putting it back in is REALLY going to suck
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mjolson
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Dec 23, 2010 11:58 AM





