ok im using the jun II cams and i wanted to use new valve springs also since the cams are a little more mild then stock so i was thinking about using the skunk 2 valve springs..but then i started thinking they might be to stiff for the junII's and they might cause alot of unwanted stress on my valve train.

does anyone know the specs of the skunk 2 valve springs?
what valve springs would be good for the jun II's?

 

i was always told to use the same brand of valvesprings/retainers as the cams. b/c if u think about it, they should have been made in the aspect of having to work well together.

 

yea but if you think about it jun valve springs are meant to be used with the junIII's for the II's its ok to use your stock valve train(or upgrade to itr springs) so i was thinking i could use the skunk 2 valve springs with the jun 2 cams and be ok with that..it was just a question because im not sure of the answer

 

Well don't you think the Skunk2 valve springs were made to work with there II/III cams too? Skunk2 stage 2's are similar spec to Jun III's so sure why not.

 

Do you even need to upgrade the valve springs if you are using Jun 2 cams or Jun 2 In. cam??? I heard that you don't even need to upgrade the valves train. Can anyone verify this???

 

running stock itr valve springs with my jun type II intake cam and stock itr exhaust cam - no issues at all - these cams can run just fine on stock itr valvetrain

 

interesting since if you look at this comparison test (link 1) and then at the Jun type 2 cams specs (link 2), you will see that the Jun type 2 camshafts have lift of 12mm at which point the ITR valve springs could bind. Any one with an opinion on this or good explanation???

http://www.importreview.com/re....html

http://www.junauto.co.jp/produ.../B18C

 

check into the ib spec valvetrain. they're built to withstand 13 mm lift and 10k revs.

 

Why does everyone think that just because a cam is stage two it is a small cam. Jun type 2 intake cam actually has more duration than type three. The big difference between three and two is on the exhaust side. A great set up would be JUN type 2 intake and JUN type 3 exhaust. Anyhow now that the myth of stage two and stage three cams has been clarified. Yes skunk springs would work fine for you. The installed height of skunk2 springs would giveyou more than enough room before coil bind and give you some nice seat pressure when the valve is closed. Use them you will be fine. Most cam breakage comes from improperly tourque cam caps not overly stiff springs. Just ask Rocket about overly stiff springs?? What do those EF-1 springs have for seat pressure- Like 245 lbs at the seat. Yikes!!

 

I'm running itr outers, portflow inners, and portflow ti retainers. Been running fine and it's been 3000 miles since I installed the cams

 

Since you seem to be well informed in this area, can you explain what is the difference in the type # vertical and horizontal on the Jun cams (is it that they have different grinds of their cams???)... please see the link below.


http://www.junauto.co.jp/produ.../B18C

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Screamer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you even need to upgrade the valve springs if you are using Jun 2 cams or Jun 2 In. cam??? I heard that you don't even need to upgrade the valves train. Can anyone verify this???</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can verify it, I have had just the JUN 2 Intake cam for over 40k miles now without any valvetrain mods. Just using the GSR exhaust cam and I can vouch for the extra HP with my butt dyno. Saving up for the real dyno... hopefully before spring I can post some numbers.

 

Is it in a type-r motor or gsr motor. I have heard the samething that you can use an itr exhaust cam and use a JUN Type II Intake and yield similar HP numbers. I would definitely like to see some dyno charts though just to be on the safe side.

 

although no numbers to prove it, talking to ALOT of engine builders in the know, Skunk2 Valvesprings are too stiff for any of their own setups.

 

People are so afraid of these skunk springs. I don't understand it. Tighter and stiff is better to an extent. It holds the valve tighter against it's seat when closed which aids in sealing and ultimately compresion. With the steep ramps of aftermarket cams for hondas spring pressure should not e o much of an issue. Again ask rocket about this. More seat pressure is not a bad thing. As long as valve lash is set properly there will be no cam breakage or premature lobe wear issues.
Allmotorhonda.com has all of the major cams specs for honda motors. Look at JUN2 intake it is actually bigger than JUN3 intake. It is only because of the JUN3 exhaust cam that the 3 make more power. Hope this helps. And for the guy using JUN2intake came with stock GSR springs- You are running on borrowed time. The duration of these cams ias killing the tension of those springs. And the lift is bringing those GSr springs to within .010 of coil bind, one mis shift or hard down shift and you can say hello to valve float.